Where to eat in NEW YORK

Despite London technically being a fair bit bigger than New York City according to all resources, the latter is more than just a big apple to me - it's a positively gargantuan piece of fruit. Perhaps it’s the wide avenues, towering buildings, generous portions and larger than life characters, but the five boroughs of Manhattan, the Bronx, Queens, Brooklyn & Staten Island feel utterly vast to me.
 

It also has that trait found in some of the greatest cities. It’s one big melting pot of an oxymoron - an excellent mash up of contradictions. A few trips on the subway will reveal the unique branch of humans that call it home - a whole separate species I’m almost certain. I saw a couple of fat rats down there too, slowly shuffling under their own weight from all that gourmet trash lining the tracks at their disposal - I’ve only ever seen cute mice on the London underground. The lingering aroma of urine occupies most stairwells and doorways, and as American author Fran Lebowitz once quipped, ‘When you leave New York, you are astonished at how clean the rest of the world is’.

And then there are places like Central Park, the lungs of Manhattan providing much needed oxygen and respite from the endless sirens and heavy air. Well maintained and lush, full of fit joggers and well groomed dog walkers. The glossy buildings of the Financial District. The skyline seen from Brooklyn at night twinkling like an arm of the Milky Way.

Not forgetting the heart and soul of New York, the people that live there. Just about every country in the world is represented, a mix of ethnicities and languages, faces and cultures, yet each of them New Yorkers in their own right and proud to declare themselves so. And you know what lots of people from different parts of the world concentrated in one space produces? Great things to eat, naturally.

Below are almost of all of the places I ate at during my six day visit. As is standard procedure before I go on holiday, they were all carefully researched establishments rather than places we happened to walk past on the off chance, hence the almost unanimous very good ratings I've given them.


Clinton St. Baking Company, Lower East Side
What: pancakes elevated to new heights 
Where: 4 Clinton St, Manhattan, NY 10002
Tel: +1 646 602 6263
clintonstreetbaking.com

Good things come to those who wait. And the food here is really very good indeed, with an equally enthusiastic waiting time to get at it. Some reviews report 5 hours on weekend mornings. But they do handily take your mobile number and text once a table is available, meaning you are free to wander the streets of the Lower East Side until that glorious time comes.

There is a reason for the unparalleled popularity of their breakfast and brunch. These are just about the best pancakes I've ever had, with all sorts of press accolades to support such a claim. Banana and walnut with a side of crisp sugar cured bacon, maple butter and a cappuccino tasted even better than it looks below.

On the note of waiting, we arrived around 9.30 on a weekday morning and had a wait of just 20 minutes. So get there early and gloat from a window seat at the crowd quickly gathering outside.

My rating: 4.5/5



Amy Ruth's, Harlem
What: Southern soul food requiring a defibrillator 
Where: 113 West 116th St, Manhattan, NY 10026
Tel: +1 212 280 8779
amyruthsharlem.com

A vast space situated six blocks from the north end of Central Park with a big following and warm service, walls adorned with murals of African American stars and political figures. Expect elderly southern matriarchs in full length fur coats with waists as large as Paraguay who, I suspect, have eaten there most days of its 17 year history.

It's understandable why. Visit for the light waffles with your choice of meat, the majority of which are elevated to new heights by an exceptional deep fry. Utterly moreish quality battered chicken laced with what I can only imagine to be crack combined with a lick of sweet maple syrup is quite the trick. The wings are huge and excellent and don't leave you feeling the aftermath of self-loathing experienced post KFC. It all comes with hunks of cornbread and fifteen packets of butter between two which are probably best avoided for the sake of functioning organs.

My rating: 4.5/5

City Sandwich, Midtown
What: creative and fresh Portuguese-Italian inspired sandwiches  
Where: 649 Ninth Ave, Manhattan, NY 10036
Tel: +1 646 684 3943
citysandwichnyc.com‎

Chef Guerrieri has laid claim to something he calls “ItaLisboNyorker” flavours, a mash-up forged from being born in Naples, raised in New York, cooking in Lisbon and returning back to the bright lights of the city.

There’s a thriving Portuguese community in New Jersey that Guerrieri worked with to retrace the ingredients he came to know and love during his stint in Portugal. A baker there also helped him to conquer the perfect light bread, the insides of which are removed are replaced by the interesting flavour combinations which he's brought to the residents of New York.

The one to try first is the Nuno - Portuguese morcela (blood sausage), broccoli rabe (a pungent leafy green), tomato, collard greens, melted mozzarella and garlic. Strong and satisfying and a break from the norm with great texture combinations. Oh, and any mayo is swapped for healthier yogurt sauces and a splash of olive oil in order to wet the sandwiches. Much preferred.

My rating: 4/5

Found on Real Cheap Eats NYC - a supremely useful website.

Doughnut Plant, Chelsea
What: gourmet doughnuts with inventive flavours you could easily scoff five of
Where: Chelsea Hotel, 220 West 23rd Street, Manhattan, NY 10011
Tel: +1 212 505 3700
doughnutplant.com

Whilst I still struggle with the fact that many Americans regard doughnuts as acceptable breakfast items and all-day snacks, they don't half do them well. Krispy Kreme made it onto UK shores back in 2003. Get to New York and you'll find branches of Dunkin' Donuts as ubiquitous as Starbucks. Be prepared to scrap all of those any day for a doughnut or seven from Doughnut Plant.

A huge array of frequently changing inventive flavours, sizes and shapes delivered in light and airy just-made fluffiness that are neither stodgy nor too sweet. I will occasionally entertain something as sugar laden as a doughnut (with a strong coffee), but these were so good I had several.

Organic ingredients are used when available, all jam fillings are made in house and doughnuts are split into three categories - yeast, cake and filled, the first being my favourite. Flavours are seasonal and include hazelnut chocolate, peanut butter and blackberry jam, pistachio, coconut cream, and many more. The coffee is also really good - what a gem.

Here is David Lebowitz gushing over Doughnut Plant, and he's a man that knows his baked goods.

My rating: 5/5

Fatty Crab, West Village
What: Malaysian inspired fare in a lively setting
Where: 643 Hudson St, Manhattan, NY 10014 
Tel: +1 212-352-3592
fattycrabnyc.com

A funky south-east Asian joint with high spirits and loud banter serving robust and spicy flavours. Tea sandwiches had rich and fatty lamb nestled between white bread with sweet raisins, Vietnamese mint and a hint of chilli heat. Crispy pork belly came with pickled watermelon, fresh herbs and sweet ginger and had meat falling away at the hint of pressure; where the fat was crisp it was glorious, but too much of it was soft which I just can’t bring myself to enjoy. 

The fatty duck was superb - skin dry rubbed with a spice mix and crisp, pink and exceedingly juicy meat, finely chopped hot chillies, piquant mustard greens, palm sugar and a wonderfully seasoned tamaki rice. We were encouraged to dive in with hands and teeth, advice duly followed and fully enjoyed, finishing with messy fingers and faces.

How I managed to sidestep the namesake dish I’m not sure - someone please try the crab for me and report back / rub it in.

Recommended by Zeren from Bitten and Written.

My rating: 4/5

Abraço Espresso, East Village
What: an espresso bar serving some of the best coffee in town
Where: 86 East 7th Street, Manhattan, NY 10003
abraconyc.com‎

With barely enough space to swing a city stray, Abraço ('embrace' in Portuguese) is an espresso bar in its truest form. Join the queue (as the interior would struggle to accommodate more than four people at any one time, expect to do so outside), place your order, and take it away. If there's space, there are a couple of stools inside with a ledge or two and further opportunities to remain stationary out the front with a wooden bar to lean on.

People visit not for the elbow-room or the chance to loiter over conversation and long lunches, but for the coffee because it is some of the best in town. And because of this, it's become a neighbourhood institution. Not to mention the seasonal pastries and snacks - of which the olive oil cake was grand. Just leave the laptop at home.

My rating: 4.5/5

Gran Electrica, Brooklyn
What: really great Mexican 
Where: 5 Front Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201
Tel: +1 718 852 2700
granelectrica.com

The menu at Gran Electrica offers dishes inspired by Mexican street food with a nod to authentic cooking techniques such hand-pressed tortillas, house-made queso fresco (Mexican cheese) and spicy chorizo made on site. And boy, do these guys know what they’re doing.

Chunky creamy mounds of piquant guacamole, thick and robust tortilla chips, zesty scallop ceviche with spicy herb salsas, huge black poblano peppers stuffed with melting cheeses, utterly hearty black beans easily devoured as a solo - it was all so pleasing.

And then there were the soft tacos and their fillings - chipotle braised chicken was quite something. But the slow cooked pork shoulder was stellar. Served with pots of salsa varying in heat, they were utterly glorious and everything you could want from a snack devoured in three bites. With all of the above, my Nueva York Sour cocktail contained even more lime and cachaça and the view of the New York skyline at night was just around the corner, and that’s about as good as life gets for me.

My rating: 5/5

Russ & Daughters, Lower East Side
What: quality smoked fish and caviar since 1914 
Where: 179 East Houston Street, Manhattan, NY 10002Tel: +1 212 475 4880
russanddaughters.com

A lot of New York feels like the set of a film or sitcom, none so much as Russ & Daughters on a Sunday morning, a scene perfectly at home in a Seinfeld or Curb script. 

With a bustling Jewish community, the Lower East Side is home to some serious eateries (Katz is a few doors down) selling all manner of cold-curing broths, matzo ball soups, sandwiches stacked with smoked brisket and pastrami, chopped liver, and a whole lot more. The institution that is Russ & Daughters is a great example serving quality smoked fish, caviar and speciality foods since 1914.

Take a ticket and find a scrap of floor space to stand your ground until your number gets called. Watch regulars park up in huge 4x4's to jump in and pick up whole smoked sturgeons for the family dinner table.

With cream cheeses every which way possible (with horseradish, with tofu, with caviar etc), order a bagel or two with a few choice cuts of glistening salmon flirting from behind the glass for a great lunch on the move.

My rating: 4.5/5

Kitchenette, Uptown
What: charming southern comfort home cooking 
Where: 1272 Amsterdam Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10027
Tel: +1 212 531 7600
kitchenetterestaurant.com

Head to this cute diner for home-cooked southern comfort. Go for breakfast and try some of the typically southern menu entries such as grits (ground corn similar to polenta) and biscuits (buttermilk bread similar to scones).

If you want to indulge your sweet tooth, they have a counter creaking under the weight of fresh baked goods including layer cakes, flaky fruit pies and cupcakes. Southerners in New York seek out this place for a reason.

My rating: 4/5

Luke's Lobster, Upper West Side
What: simple, fresh New England-style seafood 
Where: 426 Amsterdam Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10024
Tel: +1 212 877 8800
lukeslobster.com

A small chain with eleven locations - if you’re going somewhere called Luke’s Lobster, you want to get the lobster roll. Handsome chilled chunks of fresh meat nestled in a New England-style split top bun with a swipe of mayo, a sprinkle of lemon butter, a dash of their secret spices and a fat pickle. Hits the spot like a homing missile.

Order at the counter and when you’re done, kindly stack your tray and basket. I tried the spicy crab bisque too - it was good but nowhere close to what I had at the Sea Baron in Iceland.

Recommended in Top 10 NYC Foods You'll Miss by Young and Foodish.

My rating: 4/5

Takashi, West Village
What: Japanese restaurant for adventurous cow worshippers
Where: 456 Hudson Street, Manhattan, NY 10011
Tel: +1 212 414 2929
takashinyc.com

Not for the faint-hearted, Takashi is a no holds barred celebration of all things cow. And by all things cow, I mean all things cow. Think liver and nama-senmai (third stomach) sashimi, cow balls escargot style with garlic butter, and calves brain cream in a tube with blinis and caviar (you heard). Then there’s the range of offal available to BBQ yourself at your table. Pardon me for saying so, but if I’ve plucked up the courage to order cow aorta and premium super thick tongue, I’d quite like the chef to cook it with the expertise he has to make it taste a damn site better than it sounds.

Because of this (but mostly because I’m a wimp), the most adventurous plate we ordered was the beef tendon stew with fatty flaky meat that was really rather good. Also a well spiced oxtail and tripe curry encased in a delicate pastry; hand cut chuck eye tartare with raw quails egg and lemon that was fresh and appetising; and crab and bone marrow doused in molten hot peanut oil which was very good. As was the egg cocotte with runny yolk and salty beef and caviar.

The last ditch attempt at bravey by the other half came in the the form of a bowl of flash boiled shredded achilles tendon which felt like chewing through a baby's finger. It wasn’t finished, or really started. 

They do also offer ‘normal’ dishes for us cowards like rib-eye and short ribs and foie gras stuffed mini kobe burgers (I only notice this on the menu now?). So don’t allow me to put you off entirely.

Fortune favours the brave and a lot of them can be found in Takashi.

My rating: 3.5/5

(Chosen as it's one of Anthony Bourdain's favourite restaurants in NYC, but then he's an offal fiend.)

Dominique Ansel Bakery, SoHo
What: neighbourhood bakery shot to international fame by inventing the Cronut
Where: 189 Spring Street, Manhattan, NY 10012
Tel: +1 212 219 2773
dominiqueansel.com

Those who wish to join the exclusive Cronut club by eating and Instagram-ing the most talked about pastry in history can seek their thrills by queueing outside Dominique Ansel’s at 7 in the morning for at least 2 hours for the privilege of doing so. For the rest of us, we can pop-by at any other business hour and sample the rest of their equally inventive and skilled menu - pastries, cakes, macaroons, patisseries, as well as savoury lunches.

Breakfast that day consisted of a flaky, croissant-like dough with a caramelized crunchy crust called a DKA (Dominique’s Kouign Amann), a salted caramel éclair, an intensely chocolatey soft-middled cookie and no less than 40 miniature and magnificent madeleines, freshly piped and baked to order.

There was still a queue, but no less than one would expect from a favoured establishment and we found a table to enjoy our sugared wares with ease. As bakeries go, this place is up there with the best. Incidentally, I spotted Dominique himself dining at Takashi (see above) the same night I was. Dominique, the brave.

My rating: 4.5/5 

Like so many other cities with endless offerings to those seeking new culinary experiences, a good year or three are needed to really make a dent in the dining scene of New York. But if you need somewhere to start, you won't go far wrong with the above.

Afiyet olsun.

TURKEY: 10 things to eat in Istanbul

The world is a large place, and there is a lot of it to see. So many images of wonder and beauty to drop jaw over, new cultures to plunge into with head submerged, historical figures and events to get acquainted with, and new faces to smile at. And so when the yearning resurfaces during the year to explore what this rather glorious planet has to offer, more often than not it’s the yet unchartered (by me) corners that find their way onto my shortlist. But there are two cities in particular whose majestic beauty and ethereal qualities, each quite unique, stave off the beckoning calls of new lands and repeatedly have me coming back for more. They are Paris, and Istanbul.

The city of Istanbul is quite simply, like no other. One of complementary contradictions, transcendent beauty, unrivalled history and a welcome with arms thrown wide. Traditionally dressed worshipers frequenting statuesque mosques live in harmony alongside atheists and agnostics and those respectfully revelling in the happening nightlife. The repetitive chants of market traders, endless car horns and scooter revs contrast against the entirely bewitching and seemingly divinely intervened dulcifying tones of the call to prayer, carried by the warm breeze. Even the thousands of stray dogs in Istanbul are tagged, regularly immunised and receive medical treatment when needed, such is the accepting nature of this city.

The only city in the world to traverse two continents, the fertile waters of the Bosphorous dissect the metropolis from north to south, a channel of cobalt joining the Sea of Marmara and The Black Sea and acting as the boundary between Europe and Asia. It is the largest city in Turkey (albeit not its capital) and over a course of 16 centuries has served as the capital of no less than four separate empires: the Roman (330–395), Byzantine (395–1204 and 1261–1453), Latin (1204–1261), and Ottoman (1453–1922). 

Such a rich tapestry of old renders the very cobbles of the streets saturated with palpable history. And whenever a city has such a vibrant past, an eclectic international populace along with an exceptional cuisine is sure to follow. Istanbul is a veritable treasure trove of delights that can feed both the body and soul. I’ve collated a few recommendations I would strongly advise entertaining for the former when you next visit. Note, ‘when’.

10 Things to Eat in Istanbul

1) Simit

Wander the streets of the city early enough and you’ll see stocks of freshly baked simit being transported across the city (often piled high on trays perched on heads - is there an easier way to move a load of bread?) from bakeries and into mobile carts where they are sold on almost every street corner.

A ring of slightly chewy bread covered with sesame seeds, it is almost bagel-like in it’s quality. It is traditionally eaten plain with a çay (amber tea grown in Turkey and served without milk) to help wash it down, or at breakfast with the addition of peynir (cheese), perhaps some domates (tomatoes) or salatalık (cucumber).

Archival sources show the production of this bread in Istanbul dates back to 1593. Utterly ubiquitous across the city, you will be unable to avoid them. A perfect and very cheap snack to fill the voids between the exceptional eats that will punctuate your visit and a wonderful example of the staple that Turkey does exceptionally well - bread. If you can, eat from a freshly baked batch for unrivalled flavour.

Address: Everywhere

2) Türk kahvesi (Turkish Coffee)

The ritual of drinking Türk kahvesi and the product itself is quite different to the Americanised chain offerings. There are no venti vats of searing hot muddy water, burning any hints of real coffee flavour that may have been present into the depths of Hades with the excessive temperatures of boiling water used. The coffee is in fact made slowly on a stove over a very low heat, and served in espresso sized cups.

A vessel designed specifically to make Turkish coffee is called a cezve (prn. [jez-veh]) and designs can range from traditional copper ones to more modern stainless steel offerings. The end product is unashamedly strong and  leaves a sediment at the bottom of the cup. Stop drinking before you reach this to avoid a gum line of grit - it’s not meant to be consumed.

There isn’t really a coffee that tastes like it anywhere else, and it’s to be enjoyed with companionship and over conversation. It can round off glorious meals or be enjoyed as a pick-me-up during the day. You’ll find this dark nectar served in every restaurant and cafe across Istanbul, but for the very best visit Fazil Bey in Kadıköy where they roast and grind their beans on site. This was quite simply the best I’ve ever had - silky smooth with hints of cocoa. 

Related post: There is a rather lovely blog post from Delicious Istanbul called 5 Simple (Yet Little Known) Rules to Enjoy Turkish Coffee - do have a look.

Address:

Fazil Bey, Serasker Cad. No1 A Tarihi Kadıköy Çarşısı Phone : +90 216 4502870

3) Kahvaltı (breakfast)

Cast your mind back to the history lessons of your youth, recall the huge banquets typical of Tudor meals, and you’ll have something close to how the Turks often treat the first meal of the day. Forget bowls of spiritless cereals or slices of granary and marmite inhaled as the front door slams behind you, breakfast time in Turkey is a pretty big deal. When done to its fullest, you’ll be met with a dizzying spread of fresh produce that will often keep you going until dinner time, perhaps with a small snack (simit? see above) somewhere in between.

There are some very typical dishes that can be found at the Turkish breakfast table and to experience the full works, Van Kahvaltı Evi in Beyoğlu delivers in spades. Run by a team of young Kurds and replicating the breakfast joints prolific in the city of Van in the east (not far from Turkey’s border with Iran), the spread includes typical Turkish breakfast appearances (such as tomatoes, cucumber, olives) along with cheeses from the city of Van itself, eggs, pastries and more.



Here’s what you can expect from the Serme Kahvaltı (Breakfast Spread) menu - this is the bad boy:

Peynir - cheese, several different types
Kaymac ve bal - clotted cream served in a dish of honey, quite exceptional
Tereyağı - butter
Zeytin - an assortment of olives
Murtuga - local to Van, bread coated in egg and flour and fried in oil
Kavut - local to Van, ground wheat, black pepper and sugar simmered together in butter
Pekmez - fruit molasses
Tahin - tahini
Reçel - jam
Haşlanmış yumurta - boiled eggs
Domates, salatalık - tomatoes, cucumber
Sınırsız çay - unlimited Turkish tea
Ekmek - endless baskets of freshly baked bread



In addition to this set menu, you can (and should - come hungry) order extras which simply cannot be missed. These include menemen (scrambled eggs cooked with peppers and a bit of spice) and gözleme (very thin and fresh bread dough folded around a filling such as spinach, potatoes or cheese and cooked on a flat griddle). Round off with a Türk kahvesi (see above) and possibly a nap.

Is it acceptable to have breakfast three times a day? It should be.

Address:

Van Kahvaltı Evi, Defterdar Yokuşu 52/A, Cihangir, Beyoğlu
Phone: 212-293-6437

Related posts: 

• There's a place in Fulham that makes a very decent attempt at a traditional Turkish breakfast. Did I mention it was buffet and only £7.95?
• Here's my own menemen recipe if you want to try it at home. The purists out there will shout at me for not scrambling the eggs, but I just can't resist a cascading yolk.

4) Lahmacun

The words ‘freshly made’ and ‘bloody gorgeous’ do not often associate themselves with those of ‘fast food’, but in Istanbul the only way to have the latter is by involving the former. Lahmacun (prn. [luh-muh-jun]) is a hugely popular and very typical example of that thing the Turks do so well - quick and tasty bites that blast golden arches and ‘having it your way’ right out of the picture. 
 

It is comprised of a thin dough topped with a mix of wonderfully spiced minced lamb and finely diced peppers, blasted for a minute in a scorching pizza-type oven, dressed with fresh parsley, drizzled with lemon, rolled up and devoured. 

Chains are not all bad and certainly not in Istanbul. Halil Lahmacun have many branches and do these so fantastically well. A dough master separates small balls of dough from a large mass keeping them in a pile on the side ready for an order. When one comes in, he rolls out the ball to a paper thin layer. A second person tops this with the mince mix whilst also commandeering the oven. By the time you've sat down and taken a swig of your ayran (yoghurt drink - works wonderfully with the spice, get it), your plate presents itself before you. 

I’m not entirely sure it gets much better. Oh wait, it does (see next entry).

Address:

Halil Lahmacun, Guneşlibahçe Sokak 26, Kadıköy
Phone: 0216-337-0123

Related post: My own lahmacun recipe - try it at home.

5) Durum

Part two of unrivalled fast-food in Istanbul comes in the form of durum. Dürümzade was visited by Anthony Bourdain himself in his Istanbul episode of No Reservations (which is how I know about it) and described them as ‘tastebud torpedos’. The flavour sensation from these rolled up beauties has the pleasure receptors going into overdrive. Quite simply, some of the best tasting food you will get your chops around in this city. 

Oustandingly well flavoured and spiced lamb mince is manipulated around skewers and cooked over coals (you can tell this is onto a winner already). The flat breads are squeezed around the skewers for a few seconds to absorb the meaty juices (be still my beating heart) and placed over the coals until blistered from the heat. When the meat is cooked, they’re placed on the bread along with red onions, tomatoes, parsley and very importantly, sumac (a sort of citrussy spice - I can’t think of any other flavour more fitting to Turkish cuisine). They are rolled up, served with pickled chillies and on their own provide wonderful heat.

Salty, meaty, spicy, citrussy - you need these in your life. One of these alone warrants a plane journey.

Address: 

Dürümzade, Kalyoncu Küllük Caddesi 26/A, Beyoğlu

Phone: 212-249-0147

6) Fasulye (beans)

If when asking for the menu in a restaurant you are presented with a response of ‘it’s just beans and rice’, you know you’re onto something good. Any restaurant that can sustain business over multiple years by serving just two things must do those two things really, really well.

Beans (fasulye) and pulses in general are a huge part of Turkish cuisine and can be found at most table spreads, either in the form of mezze (starters) or part of main dishes. Erzincanlı Ali Baba can be found on a street full of fasulye based restaurants that hugs the side of the statuesque Süleymaniye Mosque, and this is one of the best. 

Ladling out bowls of beautiful and simply cooked Erzincan-style baked beans with a soupy tomato base that includes onions and chilli pepper, and fat white creamy pulses. Along with this, order a portion of al dente pilaf (you’ll still be given bread - it's not possible to have a meal without it in Turkey) and treat yourself to a wholesome and meat-free plate of comfort. 

Address:

Erzincanlı Ali Baba, Prof. Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi 11, Süleymaniye

Phone: 212-513-6219

Related post: Here's a very simple Turkish recipe to try at home, this time involving green beans and lamb.

7) Içli köfte

These bulgar wheat shells housing ground meat, onions, parsley and spices have been served from this street side trolley on the arterial pedestrianised road of İstiklal Caddesi for years. Made and cooked five flights up in the Sabırtaşı restaurant itself where they are served boiled, the al fresco offering is instead fried to a golden perfection and all the more superior for it.

Crunchy shells broken to reveal full flavoured and moist contents within, they’re quite perfect to fill the void between walking from one end of the street to the other. An excellent example of Istanbul’s street food scene.

Address:

İstiklal Caddesi 112 (across from YapıKredi Bank), Beyoğlu

Phone: 212-251-9423

8) Bal (honey)

If you didn't already know, Turkey produces some incredible honey and Etabal in Kadiköy glows a warm amber from the street-side from this single ambrosial product it specialises in. Glass cases house colossal slabs of honeycomb sitting in pools of golden nectar. Walls are lined with jars of honey and honeycomb of all different grades, such as special Karakovan honey from the Kaçkar mountains, or honey with Propolis (thought to be a natural antibiotic).

This is a perfect place to purchase some delicacies to enjoy back home. But if you’d like some of the sweet stuff for the road, they sell little pots of fresh yoghurt with a generous scoop of honey from those glass cases ladled over them. A warm glowing beacon ready to devour and enjoy. It was sublime.

Address:

Eta Bal, Güneşli Bahçe Sokak No.28/A, Kadiköy

9) Fırın Sütlaç (baked rice pudding)

Simply put, this is one of my favourite desserts I’ve ever had from anywhere. And as is often characteristic of the best plates of food, it is the very epitome of simplicity. It’s a light, milk based dessert with rice and sugar and sometimes flavoured with rose water. It’s thickened with a bit of corn starch and this (fırın) version includes a bake in the oven.

It should be noted that a lot of places serve this dish and they do seem to vary quite considerably. Most are generally good, but the ones served in the quality dessert chain Mado remain in my opinion unmatched by others, and I eat sütlaç everywhere that serves it.

Mado’s offering tastes like nothing else I’ve ever had - delicate, milky and actually with very little rice. A beautiful brown skin on top concealing creamy contents within, a glorious wobble when you give the plate a shake, and topped with chopped toasted hazelnuts. It’s cool, calm, coating in its qualities, not in your face, not too sweet; simply exquisite and I just can’t get enough of it.

Address:

This chain is prolific - lucky us. Take a look here for Istanbul branches.

10) Künefe 

It’s no secret that salt and sweet make a beautiful pairing and one the Turks embrace at every given opportunity, usually with the salt provided by cheese. Creamy white cheese is often served with sweet ripe melon and eaten with honey or jam on bread (halloumi and strawberry jam sandwiches were one of my favourite packed lunches - my classmates would turn their noses up, uneducated in the delights of such a taste sensation - try it). I also dip my McDonald fries into my milkshake for a similar effect, but the less said about that the better I suspect.

So it comes as no surprise to me that the Turks would include cheese at the centre of what is essentially a gorgeous slab of shredded filo pastry cooked in butter and soaked in syrup (much like baklava). A new dish to me introduced on this latest visit to Istanbul, and one I’ll certainly be returning to. Again, I tried a couple of these while out there and the one at Sur Ocakbaşı (famous for their lamb cooked in a pit incidentally - have that for mains) won hands down.

Crisp golden outer edges and base, softer pastry inside all sweet from the syrup, coupled beautifully with melted salty cheese at the centre, and topped with vibrant green chopped pistachios. Like hot, sticky and buttery Shredded Wheat with a hint of savoury. Really very excellent and a worthy contender for my second favourite dessert in Istanbul.

Address:Sur Ocakbaşı, Zeyrek Mh., 34083 FatihPhone:+90 212 533 8088

And there you have it, my humble offering of the direction you should send your taste buds towards when in Istanbul. In all fairness, there is a hell of a lot of great eating to be had in this enchanting city - follow the locals to make a list of your own and you won't go far wrong.

But do be sure to visit - I guarantee you'll fall hard for the place.

Afiyet olsun.