CAMBODIA: Review of La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa and La Rose Suites, Phnom Penh

bedroom at La Rose Suites, Phnom Penh

In a nutshell 

Sister boutique properties - one four star and the other five - a short walk apart, and both offering luxurious respite from a hectic city in intimate and well thought out surroundings. 

Where is it?

Both La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa (LRBH&S - four star) and La Rose Suites (LRS - five star) are found nestled in quiet streets at the heart of Phnom Penh. 

They're mere minutes away from major city attractions such as Independence Monument, the Royal Palace and the National Museum, and they're the ideal bases from which to take a walk in the local park or a stroll along the riverside promenade. 

Style and character

The interiors of both properties are influenced by the charm of French Indochina architecture and the grandeur of Angkor Wat, but the presence of the spa is strong, and reaches as far as the guest rooms. 

They feel a lot like the ones you're gently ushered into after receiving a relaxing treatment, swathed in a fluffy dressing gown and shuffling in slippers. Think cool concrete floors, spa music coming out of the speakers and oil burners.

Bathrooms are moulded from what looks like stone, with no seams, joins or tiles - like one big wet room. The bedrooms are punctuated with furnishings of organic materials, such as mirror frames pieced together from cross sections of wood, and driftwood lampshades. The overriding feel is minimalistic, serene and natural. They're very pleasant rooms to spend time in.

The format of both public spaces, rooms and decor in the two properties are very similar, although LRS had wooden floor rather than concrete, and no spa music playing on entry. LRBH&S is a lot more intimate with just 10 rooms, where as the newer LRS has 25 rooms, and I believe our room at the former was a little larger than at LRS.

In both, the spa starts in the lobby which doubles up as the hotel reception. It's here you're feet will be washed and given a scrub in a bowl of warm water, before you're lead to a treatment room - cleverly disguised as just another guest room - for the rest of your session.

La Rose Suites, Phnom Penhl

What's unique?

LRS are big on corporate social responsibility. They employ previously impoverished children, graduated from Pour un Sourire d’Enfant (PSE) — 'For a Child’s Smile', having previously lived on garbage dumps where they picked junk to sell to support their families. 

Guests are encouraged to help make a difference in the local community, if they are so inclined. The hotels can put you in touch with the right people should you want to undertake a short-term volunteer position and enrich your holiday experience, such as teaching English at a local school, digging wells, painting houses or building toilets. 

Who goes?

During my stay at both hotels, I spotted Americans, Russians, and quite a few Cambodian tourists. I'm told there are independent tour operators that choose to bring their group here, which means they sometimes have large numbers occupying most of the rooms at once.

La Rose Suites, Phnom Penh

Breakfast

At LRHB&S, breakfast is served any time the guest wishes, you just let them know the day before. 

As there are only ten rooms, there is no buffet. You instead make your selection from the Western option (choice of baked goods, eggs, a side dish, juice and a hot drink) or the Asian offering that has a choice of main with a juice and hot drink. Having experienced both, I'd suggest opting for the latter as the Western is a little lacklustre.

Evening meals are a whole league more impressive (see below).

Dining 

A truly glorious meal was had at the La Rose Restaurant in LRBH&S. Both a Western and local Cambodian menu is on offer; there's little contest between the two. 

(Get the Cambodian, obviously). 

There was a beef salad with crisp rice noodles, peppers, cabbage, carrots, herbs, lime, sugar, fish sauce, shallots and garlic. 

Prahok ktis - a potent gathering of minced pork cooked with prahok (the ubiquitous Cambodian crushed, salted and fermented fish paste), pea aubergines and yellow curry - was strong, but oh so very good. You use it like a dip, dunking in crunchy raw veg. If you like Gentleman's Relish and bagna cauda, you would probably love this.

Then there was samlor korko, a favourite Khmer soup amongst the Cambodian people. It's got that salty fermented prahok fish paste again (it's rarely absent in Khmer cuisine - hooray), a spicy kroeung (curry paste - galangal, turmeric, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, kaffir lime, chillies, shrimp paste, salt), river fish, pork, and a load of green fruit and veg: green papaya, green jack fruit, aubergine, leafy greens. A wonder to savour.

Dessert was quite simply bananas cooked in palm sugar, pineapple juice and coconut milk, with a flourish of cream. So very uncomplicated, and all the more magnificent for it. It went down barely touching the sides.

Even if you're not staying at the hotel, eat here.

dining at La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa, Phnom Penh

Service

In a word, exemplary. 

Enter the property any time of day and you'll be met with a cold towel and a softly spoken 'welcome home'. All doors are opened for you, and staff address you with closed palms and huge smiles whenever you cross their paths.

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots - As part of your stay at LRS, guests receive a complimentary 1 hour traditional Khmer massage. It was fabulous. They also offer massage classes should you wish to learn the Khmer techniques.

As for all that fantastic food, the properties offer cooking classes and accompanying recipes so you can replicate them at home. Assuming you can find prahok..

Liked less - There isn't a huge amount of natural light reaching the public spaces, such as the lobby, restaurants or corridors. Which makes things feel a little dark. But I do wonder if that's the desired effect - again with the spa theme. Guest rooms are nice and bright though.

La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa, Phnom Penh

Price point

La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa: from around £80 a night for a deluxe double room, to £106 for a suite, including breakfast.

La Rose Suites: from around £135 for a Junior Suite to £250 for a family suite with pool view.

Contact

La Rose Boutique Hotel & Spa: #164B, Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh +855 23 211 130

La Rose Suites: No.4B, St. 21, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamkarmon, Chamkar Mon, Phnom Penh +855 23 211 130

@LaRoseSuites
Website

Note: This stay was kindly hosted by the hotel as part of a media package. All views remain my own.

Related links

CAMBODIA: Review of Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap
CAMBODIA: Review of Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap
Week 13: CAMBODIA - Siem Reap (and Angkor Wat) → Phnom Penh
Week 14: CAMBODIA - Sihanoukville & Koh Rong Samloem Island
Week 15: CAMBODIA - Kep

CAMBODIA: Review of Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap

In a nutshell 

A French-colonial style luxury property with 238 rooms and suites, covering a vast six hectares, and close to the great Angkor temple complex. If it's good enough for the First Lady, it's good enough for us.

Where is it?

The hotel is set back from the tree-lined Charles de Gaulle Avenue close to Angkor’s famous temples in Siem Reap, and sits around a lake garden, with wooden bridges stretching across the waters, and a modern lake-shaped pool (the largest of its kind in Cambodia) at its heart.

It's close to the spectacular sunsets seen from Bakheng Hill, the Siem Reap River, the Old Market, it's 20 minutes from the International Airport, and walking distance to Siem Reap National Museum.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap
l

Style and character

Built only in 1997 and opened in 2000, its striking interiors - feeling at once like the original airy French colonial architecture that can be found in Saigon, yet with a more local Khmer twist - feels a century older. 

A property with a design that's unique in the area, its most show stopping feature is the use of space. Sitting amongst the elegant manicured gardens, the swimming pool is surrounded by lush and opulent landscaping, and the world-class 18-hole golf course at the Phokeethra Country Club, is just a 25 minute drive away.

Dark wooden floors and furniture, four poster beds, the gentle beat from ceiling fans, soft white linens, and vibrant local silks reflect French sophistication and yesteryear refinement, with each luxury room (what we stayed in) overlooking the garden, pool or lagoon.

A small mezzanine level with floor loungers to kick back on leads onto the private balcony surrounded by trees; perfect for a spot of exotic bird watching as they flit from tree to tree. An in-room Lavazza coffee machine and L'Occitane bath products help add the finishing touches to a very splendid space.

What's unique?

The hotel chain is part of Planet 21, an initiative encompassing their commitment to sustainable development. It's active every day in the areas of nature, carbon, innovation, local development, employment and dialogue. 

For example, all taps are fitted with water flow regulators, only eco-friendly cleaning products are used for the rooms, they have a commitment to protecting children through training on sex tourism, and local food products are promoted in the restaurant.

In addition, the hotel is the first in Cambodia to have received the internationally recognised HACCP certification in February 2015. This means food safety is addressed through the analysis and control of biological, chemical, and physical hazards from raw material production, procurement and handling, to manufacturing, distribution and consumption of the finished product. 

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap
l

Who goes?

Shortly after opening, the hotel was discovered by star guests on their own search for ancient culture in the area – the whole cast and crew of Tomb Raider (2001), led by Angelina Jolie, stayed in the hotel during their filming in the surrounding temples. 

And just a few days after our stay, the First Lady herself, Michelle Obama, was also there. Along with her security and entourage, they stayed at the hotel for two days whilst Michelle Obama was in the country to address a Peace Corps event. And it was no small price tag for the American tax payers, according to the Daily Mail.

And from the non-famous clientèle, I spotted a few business folk (I think quite a few from the Whitehouse were there in preparation for the First Lady's visit), solo diners, many couples, groups of friends, and a couple of tour groups.

Breakfast

Served in the bright and airy all-day dining restaurant The Citadel - one of the seven dining options available within the property - and recognising their diverse client base, it's an international offering.

Expect the likes of cheese, cold cuts, charcuterie, and crackers, smoked salmon, dried fruits and nuts, an egg station and a noodle station, cooking them to order. There's shrimp cocktail salads, ham and cheese salads, smoked fish, mango with pork, chive dumplings, miso soup. There's a soup of minced beef with five spices, chicken sausage, pork sausage, steamed veg, noodles with veg. 

You'll find peanut butter, milk jam, compotes, mixed fruit smoothies, beetroot and apple juice, blueberry jam, Nutella, a spread of fine baked goods including madeleines and financiers, HP sauce (hurrah!) and Bon Maman jam jars on each table.

Calories are handily written on the label for each dish, and you can dine on the terrace and enjoy the bird watching in the surrounding trees, if you can handle the heat.

breakfast at Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, Siem Reap
l

Service

All the staff members were wonderful, and very smiley, closing their palms in the traditional Khmer way as a greeting every time they passed a guest - I really liked that.

I like how a sign in the bathroom tells you the tap water is safe to brush your teeth with, that there are complimentary newspapers, and rather than being priced per item, the laundry service lets you fill up a whole bag and charges you $40 to wash and iron the lot

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots

Those staying in the superior rooms get one of the best fruit bowls I've seen in a hotel, including mango, banana, logan fruit, rambuten, mangosteen and pear. And that accompanies a lunch platter - pastries, cut fruit, crepes, little pancakes, yoghurts and smoothies. More than enough to tide you over until dinner.

Liked less

Struggling to think of something, to be honest.

Price point

Prices from around £170 a night for a superior double room, to £235 for a junior suite, including breakfast.

Contact

Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap
+855 63 964600
Website
@SofitelNews

Note: Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort kindly hosted us as a guest as part of a media package. All views remain my own.

Related posts

CAMBODIA: Review of Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap
Week 13: CAMBODIA - Siem Reap (and Angkor Wat) → Phnom Penh
Week 14: CAMBODIA - Sihanoukville & Koh Rong Samloem Island
Week 15: CAMBODIA - Kep

CAMBODIA: Review of Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap

Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodia

In a nutshell 

A legendary building set in 15 acres of beautifully landscaped French gardens, combining charming grandeur with a hefty dose of peace and tranquillity.

Where is it?

You'll find it in the Old French Quarter in the heart of Siem Reap, and very conveniently only 8km from the Angkor Wat temple complex. 

It overlooks the Royal Garden, is just around the corner from the National Museum, and guests can amble along the picturesque riverside to the markets in less than ten minutes, or get there in three minutes by tuktuk.

Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodia

Style and character

It sure is nice when a hotel retains some old-world charm. At Raffles, you 'll find heavy-set wood-panelled doors with a good old-fashioned lock and key, and proper round door knobs.

A gentle ginger fragrance meets you as you enter your room, with framed botanical prints and vintage brass light switches adorning the walls. I completely loved the golden-green hues of the soft furnishings (coveted them, in fact) and the cool white marble of the bathroom, against the dark wood of the floor and crafted four-poster bed.

An elegant cage elevator - an original from the 1920's - adorns the lobby, gracefully carrying guests upwards. Ceiling fans gently beat a rhythm to shift the heavy air, and from a cool uncluttered lobby, Art Deco black-and-white tiled halls lead you to very splendid rooms.

What's unique?

This hotel is home to the largest swimming pool in Cambodia. It's inspired both in design and size by the ancient bathing pools of the Khmer Kings in Angkor Wat, and set at the heart of the hotel’s private tropical gardens. It's pretty nice.

Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodia

Who goes?

I noticed a significant proportion of the clientèle to be in the over 50's category, often friends in groups of four, but that is by no means to say we felt out of place.

There were also a few families spotted as well as young couples (honeymooners, I'm told), with those from the UK, America and France making up the majority of the customer base.

Breakfast

Served in the bright and baroque Café d'Angkor, (also open for lunch and dinner) and recognising their diverse client base, it's an international offering with a pleasing slant towards French.

The quality was truly superb, some of the best breakfasting I've had in any hotel, and a key thing to commend here is that everything is made in-house; they even smoke their own meats.

As you'd expect from a Gallic-influenced kitchen, baked goods are big hitters. Think banana cake, berliners (traditional German doughnuts), carrot cake, blueberry muffins, apricot Danishes, brioche, almond croissants, chocolate Danishes, sourdough rolls, rye and walnut, raisen brioche, and a whole load more. 

The waiters will even come to your table with trays that have come straight from the oven, so you don't miss them while they're still hot.

breakfast at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodia
l

The cold cuts include roast pork, salami, smoked chicken, and mortadella, and cheeses are a roll call of some of the continental greats. Then there's siu mai, taro paste buns, and char siu bao with great gorgeous chunks of pork in - you can really tell they're made from scratch - to be plucked out of what must be the world's largest bamboo steamer.

Tomato and basil ragout, beans, grilled bacon - with the option of crispy bacon - which is great. Sweet and sour chicken, veal sausages, wok-fried greens in oyster sauce, grilled minute steaks, grilled fish with lemon butter, and more.

And to wash it all down, knock yourself out with champagne. Not actually, though. Bubbles at a breakfast buffet; things could get messy before 10am. Or your choice of exotic smoothie concotions such as green tea, pandan leaves, cinnamon and orange. 

What you want to do is get there early and allow yourself a long and langorous breakfast, it might just be the best part of your day.

Dining 

Brit and Executive Chef Stuart Doust is doing a fantastic job comandeering his team to turn out the great eating available at the hotel, and that includes breakfast (above). 

Restaurant Le Grand showcases both Khmer and Western cuisine in a timeless and elegent fine dining room. You can delight in the likes of a starter platter including prawn cakes, duck salad, chicken breast with salsa, and deep fried spring rolls. There are fresh and vibrant prawn and mango salads, and a completely glorious pumpkin soup lifted by lemongrass and cumin, which reminded me of something my dad makes. So uncomplicated, so very wonderful.

dining at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodial
l

Then there was steamed elephant fish with spring onions, ginger, shiitake mushrooms, and beef loc lac (marinated, slow cooked succulent slithers of steak), with deep fried filaments of taro, ginger, sweet potato, and a pepper and lime sauce. This was one of my favourite dishes in Cambodia, and I recreated it in the excellent Royal Khmer cooking class I attended at Raffles the next day - scroll down to The best things I ate this week in the post.

I'd strongly recommend propping up the Elephant Bar to close the evening, and making the Femme Fatale cocktail your choice of tipple. It’s the signature libation of the bar of the same name at their sister hotel, Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh, and was created specifically to commemorate Jacqueline Kennedy's visit to the hotel in 1967. It's champagne-based with Crème de Fraise Sauvage and a dash of Cognac. Hard to go wrong, really.

Service

The staff are a highlight of this hotel. All were very courteous, patient and accessible, always saying hello when walking past. 

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots 

The outfits of the doormen, inspired by uniforms from the Royal Palace.There are different coloured trousers for each day of the week. If it's orange, you know it's Monday.

The property's 60,000 sqm of landscaped gardens, with more than 20,540 different species of tropical plants and a whole cacophony of exotic birds.

The excellent Royal Khmer cooking class available there - scroll down to The best things I ate this week in the post.

Liked less 

I could hear all of the noise from outside the room - doors closing, suitcases along the floor, people talking, toilets flushing. It's one of the downsides of having those beautiful wooden floors as opposed to carpet, I suppose. Bring some ear plugs if you're a light sleeper and you'll be fine. I'd rather do that than lose those floors.

Price point

Prices from around £270 a night for a state double room, to £340 for a landmark double, including breakfast.

Contact

1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dan Kum, Siem Reap
+855 63 963 888
@raffleshotels
Website

Note: This stay was kindly hosted by the hotel as part of a media package. All views remain my own.

Related posts
Week 13: CAMBODIA - Siem Reap (and Angkor Wat) → Phnom Penh
Week 14: CAMBODIA - Sihanoukville & Koh Rong Samloem Island
Week 15: CAMBODIA - Kep