Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Tuesday 20 June 2017

PORTUGAL | 10 things to expect from Intrepid's food-focussed tour through Porto, Lisbon, and the Alentejo region

our lovely Intrepid Travel group in Lisbon

Organised group travel: my first time


I’ve never been on an organised group trip abroad before. Well ok, I have. But they’ve always been designed for “media” – journalists, bloggers, writers etc. How they work is a few people will be sent somewhere, usually with a cool and curated jam-packed agenda, often hosted by a tourism board, in order to showcase the area and all it has to offer. 

Flights, meals, activities, experiences, accommodation, and ground transport are all sorted in advance by the organisers, there’s a comprehensive itinerary (although often a bit too ambitious, with little free/down time), and there isn’t really anything to think about other than making sure you don’t forget your passport.

Porto tiles, Portugal
They’re more often than not awesome (if not excruciatingly exhausting). But when I write up the experience, I’m always left thinking that it would be a real challenge for someone to replicate themselves.

When I take my personal, non-work related trips, I spend inordinate amounts of time researching and planning, especially when it comes to where and what I'll be eating (more on my recent thoughts on eating experiences whilst travelling in TRAVEL | Is VizEat the future of authentic local dining experiences in people's homes?)
. I want the best food for the best price, I want to make sure I'm not 'settling' when there might be a superstar tin shack around the corner, and I want to indulge in as much superlative eating as my finite time and budget can possibly allow. This all requires significant forward planning.

When I went travelling for eight months with my partner back in 2015, I 'planned' for two whole years. I ended up with a gargantuan spreadsheet that would have crashed most computers, with a row for each day of the circa eight months we would be away. What started off as a simple budgeting tool grew into a colour-coded, multi-layered, multi-columned, pivot tabled behemoth. It became the life of two people for most of a year in cell form. So yeah, I can get carried away with pre-holiday research. 


daily scenes in Porto, Portugal
My ideal travel formula is as close to the following as possible: 

MAX. COOL EXPERIENCES + 
BEST NON-TOURISTY AND AUTHENTIC PLACES TO EAT + 
SOLID ACCOMMODATION + 
PLENTY OF PHOTO OPPS + 
SUPPORTING AND INTERACTING WITH THE LOCALS 

= MIN. EXPENSE AND MIN. STRESS

A lot like Einstein’s theory of relativity, (when it’s achieved) it’s a thing of beauty.

It turns out that Intrepid Travel - 'small groups, big adventures and responsible travel' - have my magic formula almost down to a T. They do all the researching, planning, organising and booking on your behalf. Unique experiences, non-touristy places to eat and ways to see things, solid accommodation, for a very reasonable fee. Add to that the feel good factor of their sustainability initiatives, and it’s a winning combination. 

They’re so closely aligned to how I travel anyway, that I will seriously be considering them for my personal trips going forward.

I was invited to an abridged version of their Real Food Adventure - Galicia & Portugal tour. We experienced five out of what would usually be the full eight day trip, skipping the stops in Spain.

For first-time group participants like me, here are 10 things you can expect from Intrepid's food-focussed tour through Porto, Lisbon, and the Alentejo region. 

But before that, here's a short video I stitched together from the trip:


1) Fab group dynamic and small numbers

One of the things Intrepid really pride themselves on are their small group numbers. That number does vary depending on where and how they're travelling, but we're talking an average group size of ten people. Which means you can legitimately all eat together in a restaurant, all fit into a bar - actually do the real life, everyday things - without standing out like a sore thumb. 


There's nothing more touristy then seeing a tour group of 30+ parading through the small cobbled streets of an ancient town, with the leader brandishing an umbrella above their head. Shudders. Intrepid's small groups mean you stay under the radar, and travel, eat and sleep the local way. But there's still enough people in them to create a good social vibe. 

I heard stories of people making friends for life, and there even being a few marriages, thanks to Intrepid. And where there are marriages, babies often follow. To think, you as a travel company, have been the catalyst in helping create new life. That's a pretty big deal. 

And I actually have a friend who has been on a few Intrepid tours, who has stayed close friends with those in his group. He never shuts up about how great they are. I can now totally see why.

good times with our little Intrepid Travel group


2) Urban Adventures local guides and knowledge


Everyone knows that the best people to help you get under the skin of a new destination are those who call that place home. It's the natives that will show you the cool hidden spots, the hang-outs where only the locals go, the hip new joint that's just opened.

I was really impressed that whilst we had Marco from Intrepid with us throughout our whole trip, every time we reached a new destination, we met with a new local guide who lived there. Many of those were from Urban Adventuresa division of Intrepid Travel that focuses on day long city tours (or shorter), that take travellers to the most interesting places to meet locals, and really find out what makes a place tick.

One of my favourite local tours from the trip was when Joana from Urban Adventures met us in Lisbon. She walked and talked us through the Mouraria District with its fabulous street art, the Alfama District where Fado music was born, and took us to a cool hole-in-the-wall bar to sip on some Ginjinha, a Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries, which went straight to my head.

I also really like the fact that the restaurants the meals are eaten in vary depending on the guide, as each will have their own favourites. Nothing is set in stone, and because the group is small, things can be flexible.

our fab local Urban Adventure guides throughout the trip


3) Solid accommodation


One thing I'd mentally prepared myself for was accommodation that left a lot to be desired. For some reason, I'd associated group travel with having to deal with a few compromises. Sure, you'll get all these cool and unique experiences, with a small group of people you really get on with, and you're making memories that will last a lifetime. But, you might have to share a room, or there won't be showering facilities, or your bed is in a pig shed.

Shows what I know. The accommodation was in fact a solid highlight, in all three places we stayed. Intrepid have a budget for beds, and their people on the ground source the best value-for-money rooms. What they guarantee are 'simple, clean and well located hotels', but what I experienced was much more.

Particularly in Lisboa Tejo Hotel, which seemed to have just finished refurbishing all its rooms to a really high standard and design. And even more so, the Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay in the Alentejo region. A positively bucolic setting in rural Portugal, with converted cattle sheds transformed into exquisitely furnished rooms in the style of traditional old Alentejo houses, fully equipped with air conditioning and other mod cons. A truly glorious corner of the world.

Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay in the Alentejo region, Portugal


4) Beautiful sights


As someone who takes a lot of pictures, and likes to share a lot of those on Instagram, one of my high priorities when I travel is seeing and capturing beauty, in all its forms. I'm happy to report, there was no shortage of that on this trip.

From the expansive vistas across Portugal's fertile and wine-producing Douro Valley, to the spectacular tiled facades of Porto's buildings, to the stunning view out the window from our table in Raiz Restaurant in Porto, I barely pulled the camera away from my face.

lots of great sights and photo opportunities, Portugal


5) A lot of food and wine


There was no missing the fact that this was a food (and wine!) focused tour. Of course, any of Intrepid's tours will be punctuated with the day's meals. But in between those meals, we did even more eating and drinking. I was in my element.

On our first day we went on an Urban Adventures walking food tour, stopping to graze on local delicacies along the way, from codfish cakes paired with a caramel and aniseed liquor called Eduardino, to local cured meats and cheeses, to a whole Port tasting.

Our time in the Douro Valley was understandably focused around wine - my kind of day. With two winery visits and several tastings under our belt, we also stopped off at a small and very old olive oil producing plant, to see how it was done in the old days. The lunch from that day, in a traditional restaurant up on a hill, was one of my favourite meals from the trip. Roast turkey (I was gnawing on the bones long after the staff had cleared our plates), local fish, fresh salad, roast potatoes - simple food cooked really well.

And then there was the evening meal at the farm stay (I really did like that farm stay), which was another stellar feed. Vegetable soup, slow roast pig cheeks, roast potatoes, fried eggs from the roaming chickens on the farm, superbly seasoned rice, and more salad. Home cooked food wins for me every time, and it was great to experience some of that on this trip.

some great eating with Intrepid Travel in Portugal


6) Plenty of free time


The thing that has put me - and I reckon a lot of other people - off from considering a group trip before, is the thought of spending all of my time around other people. I am someone that loves (and needs) my own space, and company. And the threat of having to share both for a whole week is frankly, terrifying.

Have no fear. It turns out Intrepid is fully aware and appreciative of this common desire, and so strike a perfect balance between included activities and 'me time'. Not everything is scheduled; not all meals are planned. If you stumble across a cool cafe that you want to chill out in on your own before you head to the next destination, you'll have plenty of time to do that. 

And because all the nitty gritty stuff involving crossing borders, negotiating prices, and organising logistics is taken care of, you can maximise your time off and focus all your energy on having the experience of a lifetime. Amen to that.

down time in Lisbon


7) Sustainable and responsible travel


Here's something that's pretty cool: the majority of Intrepid trips are Carbon Offset. That's over 800 trips! And they're also low impact by design, meaning they try to use public transport where possible (the train from Porto to Lisbon was great fun), stay in locally owned and simpler styles of accommodation (again, that farm stay 💙), and eat at locally owned eateries.

Then there's the whole local guides thing. It translates to economic empowerment, meaning people can earn a living and support their families through tourism, without having to commute for hours, or leave their home altogether. Intrepid end up putting your money into local hands and economies.

There are a few other cool responsible tourism initiatives they can shout about, and you can find more in this report:

  • A Kilimanjaro trek for women’s land rights across Africa
  • Raising $700,000 for Nepal after the earthquake of 2015
  • Our decision to remove orphanages from our itineraries
  • Our drive to employ female tour leaders in India
  • Our progress towards becoming a B-Corp – a certification for businesses to want to benefit society as well their shareholders


It's comforting to know you're giving your hard earned money to a company that takes responsible and sustainable tourism very seriously.

Pinhao train station, Portugal




8) Getting out of the city

the Douro Valley, Portugal

I loved the fact we ventured out of the cities, something I find quite a challenge to achieve on my personal trips. 


My partner doesn't drive, and I have no experience driving on the right hand side (I really need to address that). When it comes to travel, if you don't hire a car, or don't join some sort of tour, it's quite difficult to get out of the city and into the countryside. So I was really pleased to see Intrepid had a healthy mix of urban and rural on this tour.

From Porto we drove for about an hour and arrived at the simply spectacular Douro Valley, where we visited wineries and drank all the wine (you couldn't do that if you hired a car). Also, the roads down the sides of the valley were barely wide enough for a Mini, and excruciatingly steep. I categorically would not have been comfortable driving there anyway. Hence why it's best to have a local behind the wheel, who could probably navigate those tiny roads with their eyes close (our driver's eyes were firmly open). 


And then from Lisbon, we headed to the Alentejo region and stayed on a working farm (oh yes, that farm stay).

9) Unique, real life experiences


I've wanted to try my hand at making cheese since about Christmas 2005, when I was determined someone would get me a Lakeland cheese making kit for Christmas. But it never came to be. 

No worries. Because I got to have a go at making fresh goat's cheese on a farm in the Portuguese countryside, from that morning's milk, whilst the goats bleated away in the field next door. I'm not sure it gets more authentic than that. Much cooler than any Lakeland kit.

This is a great example of some of the unique experiences Intrepid weave into their tours, that you won't find through a search engine. The little noodle bars, the backstreet bodegas, or the live Fado performance Joana took us to in a Lisbon restaurant, that had me covered in goosebumps through all three courses of my dinner.

getting hands on with cheese making, Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay


10) Really good value


Firstly, take a look at the Intrepid website and their prices. You'll notice, they're not expensive. Then when you realise all the stuff that's included, it becomes increasingly apparent how these guys offer unbeatable value.

They offer three styles of travel, all of which come with more inclusions than you might expect on a typical group adventure. Whilst another tour might drop their clan off at the Taj Mahal and leave them to it, the local leaders Intrepid work with will give you great value the whole way. 

Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with Intrepid Travel. I'm honoured they invited me along to experience this trip - I had an absolute blast. I'd love to try out more Intrepid trips! It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on. All views remain my own, as always.

Monday 19 June 2017

DINING | Japanese all the way: the Celebrity Cruises 'Taste of Travel' experience at Taste of London

all of the truffled tuna tataki at Celebrity Cruises 'Taste of Japan'
Have I ever mentioned Japanese food is in my top three cuisines on the planet? It in fact might well be my number one. A big claim, I know. But the love is real (on that note, you might want to check out my recommendation of 10 Things to Eat in Tokyo). I'm actually a bit obsessed with the country as a whole, and I'm truly desperate to return. I have everything crossed, and kneel before the Travel Gods on a daily basis.

When the nice folk over at Celebrity Cruises asked if I'd like to pop along to their stand at Taste of London, with the promise of taking me on a '30 minute gastronomic journey around the world' (one of the options being with a fourth generation sushi chef), my ears pricked.

This was actually Celebrity Cruises' fifth year bringing global flavours to the visitors of Taste of London, through their Taste of Travel experience. How their tastings work is you're welcomed into a cool space, that looks a bit like the inside of one of their ships. You're handed a Celebrity Cruises "passport", and are told your seat number. And then for 30 minutes, the chef in question for the tasting you've chosen, plus a couple of hosts, will wine and dine you through a destination-inspired, two course, food and wine pairing.

There was also a 'Taste of Galapagos' and a 'Taste of Tuscany' on offer, but it always had to be a 'Taste of Japan' for me.

chefs plating up the tastings, and hosts chatting to the crowd
The intention of these tastings is to give visitors an insight into the sort of culinary experiences you can expect to find at the destinations themselves, and on board their ships. Celebrity Cruises sail to over 300 destinations, and one of those is in fact Japan (wonder if they hear my pleas..). I had a front centre seat to watch Celebrity Cruises Japanese Master Sushi Chef, Yoshikazu Okada, at work.

As well as sampling dishes from their award-winning culinary team, Celebrity Cruises have also partnered with The Wine Show. The show's resident experts, Amelia Singer and Joe Fattorini, were the hosts of the experience, if you like, guiding all the guests through the dishes and the ideal pairing. And it's worth noting, the cruise company's extensive cellar boasts the largest and rarest wine collection at sea. Who doesn't enjoy a fine tipple with some salty sea air.

The 'Taste of Japan' first course was a superb truffle Albacore (longfin tuna) tataki: thin slices of lightly seared tuna, cucumber, micro coriander, a light ponzu dressing, and a little truffle oil. Paired with a glass of Viognier “La Violette”, Jean-Luc Colombo, Languedoc. Then there was a supremely tasty morsel in the form of a lobster and shrimp wonton, alongside some fabulous sake, Junmai Daiginjo Dassai. And to round it off, everyone got a little white chocolate truffle with a yuzu centre - stellar.

the 'Taste of Japan' tastings at the Celebrity Cruises stand, Taste of London


It was a fun way to spend half an hour on a sunny day in London, surrounded by what were clearly some life long fans of Celebrity Cruises, many of who had been sailing with them before. Has this experience whet my appetite enough to want to live the real deal on board? Most definitely. So Celebrity, when do we set sail?

Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with Celebrity Cruises. I'm very pleased they invited me along, it was good fun, and very tasty. Now I just need to get on one of their voyages.. (hint dropped, unashamedly). All views remain my own, as always.

Saturday 3 June 2017

TRAVEL | Is VizEat the future of authentic local dining experiences in people's homes?

Camille's Delicious Sunday Brunch, one of the London experiences on VizEat
l




It will be no surprise to regular readers of this blog, and followers of my social accounts, that my biggest motivation to travel is getting a good feed. I select my next destination based mostly on what exotic delicacies I can scoff once I get there. Closely followed by natural beauty and wildlife, enthralling cities, and how friendly the natives are. 

When I am eating on my travels, my main agenda is to experience food as authentic and local as I can find. Restaurants with tourists are generally avoided, whereas bustling tin shacks with not an English word spoken often equate to fantastic feasting. Especially if they have strip lighting. I do a lot of research beforehand, and will often try to get in touch with someone who lives there and is willing to show me round one evening, in exchange for a few beers and good chat. This worked supremely well in Mumbai, where I met up with a few people from Food Bloggers Association India. We ate well together.

The ultimate travel dining experience for me, is being invited into someone's home to eat. I've alas, never quite managed this. I was probably closest quite recently in Catania in Sicily. The host of the apartment we were staying in told us of an artist friend she had, who was currently running an exhibition in Catania, and who we should get in touch with if we fancied visiting it. The artist ended up inviting us to join her for Sunday lunch in her home, cooked by her mother (real Italian mama's pasta), which we were all damn excited about. But schedules didn't quite work out, and it alas never came to be.

the different stages of making host Camille's suggested mega brunch tower stack
l

Well, I've now recently discovered VizEat, thanks to them finding me online and getting in touch. These guys connect travellers looking to share a meal or food experience with locals. Anything from cooking classes and market tours, to supper clubs and wine tastings, in over 250 cities, in a whopping 110 countries. These locals make up around 20,000 hosts around the world, who are a combination of home cooks and trained chefs, all from different backgrounds. But what everyone has in common is the love for cooking, eating, and meeting new people. My kind of crew.

I'm not entirely sure how I hadn't heard of VizEat before; I think they're well known across the continent, but less so in the UK. But now I have, I think it's such a great idea. They're all about allowing people visiting a new part of the world to make meaningful connections with those who live there. Whilst so many transactions and encounters take place online these days, maintaining the human element of travelling is mighty attractive. And I think many would agree that some of the strongest connections made between people are forged over the breaking of bread. These guys use technology to connect travellers with locals, to facilitate the simple desire of enjoying a meal with others.

brunch scenes with Sally and host Camille
l


VizEat got in touch, told me about what they do, and asked if I'd like to try out an experience in my home town of London. And so, a couple of Sundays ago, myself and my good friend Sally (aka The Cafe Cat), popped over to Camille's house in West London to enjoy her 'Delicious Sunday Brunch'. Buttermilk pancakes, creamed spinach, smashed avo, mushrooms, crispy maple bacon, baked beans, wonderful Jing tea, coffee, sausages, fried eggs, homemade jams, black pudding, roasted cherry tomatoes, freshly made juices, cheese, and fruit salad - phew! It was a serious feast, and a pleasure to meet and chat with Camille, and attempt to make friends with her cat (who was less keen).

They also allowed me to run an Instagram competition for one of my readers to win a VizEat experience, in the city of their choice, for two people worth up to 150 Euros or equivalent. Which was very generous of them. Congrats again to the winner, Roxii!

It turns out that VizEat is now the world’s most popular meal sharing platform, and has been called the future of dining by travel and tech commentators (Apple CEO Tim Cook recently joining an event on his latest trip to Paris). Now that I know it exists, I will, without question, be checking out what's on offer next time I'm in a new city. Which is in fact next week.. Best get on it.

the finished mega brunch tower stack - buttermilk pancakes topped with truffle pesto, avocado, creamed spinach, mushrooms, cheese, bacon; topped with a fried egg; furnished with sausage, black pudding, roasted tomatoes and baked beans 

Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with VizEat. I'm thrilled they found me and that I now know about them. It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on. All views remain my own, as always.

Monday 19 December 2016

LATVIA: 4 places to eat during Riga Restaurant Week

a frosty Riga Town Centre, Latvia
l


Riga Restaurant Week and the European Region of Gastronomy


Next year, Riga is going to have something big to shout about. The capital of Latvia - along with the surrounding Gauja River Valley (which includes the central Latvian cities of Sigulda, Cēsis and Valmiera) - will become a European Region of Gastronomy. Only three gastro-centric spots on this continent are awarded the accolade each year, and in 2017, Riga-Gauja will wear this badge alongside central Denmark and the Danish city of Aarhus, and the Lombardy region of Italy.

The popularity of Nordic cuisine has seen a surge in recent years, with Scandinavian-influenced restaurants and pop-ups springing up in most of the world's major food cities. But food from the neighbouring Baltics? Not so much.


That's a great shame, because we're talking about similar climates with four distinct seasons, equally bountiful natural larders, and innovative and ambitious chefs, all eager to showcase the quality produce that can be found not far beyond their front door.

autumnal sunshine in Riga's central park
l


 To coincide with Riga's big culinary gig next year, I was invited to visit the city during the autumn biannual Riga Restaurant Week (they do another in spring), that took place in October. The premise of this event - and one I know Budapest does too, as I happened to be there during theirs - is for restaurants across the capital to put on set three-course menus at a very reasonable 15 or 20 Euros, that run for the whole week.

It's a great idea for an emerging foodie city. It encourages people to try somewhere new, means almost everyone can treat themselves to some of the finest seasonal dishes on offer in the city, and all for not very much at all.


Latvian cuisine, as it stands, might not be the most refined. Its pillars are often noted as rye bread, fish from their internal waters, curd-based dishes, meat cooked in pork fat, smoked meats and fish, and nuts and berries. Their ancestors engaged in a lot of hard physical labour, and needed heavy sustenance to fuel it. So traditionally, meals are dense. But these days, restaurant kitchens have modified traditional recipes, coming up with contemporary versions that add a sophisticated and light touch, which both taste great and are a joy to look at.

My guide below suggests a few restaurants to try that take part in Riga Restaurant Week. A second post to follow suggests ways in which to fill the rest of a two day trip, both in and around the city (LATVIA: how to spend 2 days in and around Riga). My advice: if a visit to Riga wasn't on the cards, 2017 is the year to change this. Coincide it with their spring or autumn restaurant week, and you'll leave very well fed indeed.



Where to eat in Riga


1) Valmiermuizas Embassy


Dzintars Kristovskis, a European Region of Gastronomy 2017 ambassador, and Head Chef at 
Valmiermuizas Embassy, began his career at a kebab house over 10 years ago. Things have changed a lot since, and in his restaurant today, there are two main focuses: showcasing local Latvian ingredients, and serving great beer.

The beer comes from the Valmiera-based Valmiermuiza microbrewery, where it's brewed slowly and deliberately. Their intention is to maintain and develop traditions of beer making and drinking in Latvia, complimented by elegant food from Dzintars kitchen.


Expect menus crafted from locally grown products, including seasonal wild herbs and plants from Latvian meadows and forests. I enjoyed ox heart tartare with pickled celeriac, confit onion, elderflower, blackcurrant, and cider and charred onion consomme. There was a gloriously sharp square of seabuckthorn candy with spruce salt. Venison came with rowanberry, pear, parsnip and ale sauce. And dessert was moss (actual foraged moss), chocolate, charred quince, cranberry sorbet, and chicory sponge. All that, for 20 Euros.


valmiermuiza.lv/en

Valmiermuiza's Embassy, A.Briāna Street 9a, Riga

Riga Restaurant Week dishes at Valmiermuizas Embassy, and chef Dzintars Kristovskis
l



 2) Rocket Bean Roastery


We all know Scandinavians and those from the Nordic countries are big fans of coffee. It's the Finns that come out on top as the highest consumers of coffee per capita in the world, with Sweden also featuring in the top echelon. And in neighbouring Latvia, the coffee-quaffing theme continues.

Rocket Bean Roastery is a coffee production site, coffee shop, restaurant, and coffee equipment store. Here, you can get a fabulous pour over, as well as really great food from their Michelin-experienced chef, Artūrs Taškāns. I really like the idea that in the evening, the coffee shop-by-day atmosphere is transformed into an intimate and atmospheric dining venue, with candlelight and clinking wine glasses.


I popped in at lunch and ordered a la carte, as the three courses offered as part of the restaurant week would have been too much, considering I had that planned for the evening. But it included the likes of mushroom soup with rice noodles, slow-cooked egg, crispy piglet belly, and finger lime. And venison chop with kale, black-pepper beetroot purée, and venison broth sauce.


I ordered an absolutely gorgeous onion soup with chives and sour cream, then some truffle mashed potatoes with kale, chives and chervil, a chocolate mousse cake with flower petals, homemade bread, and a great Colombian Chemex brew (I am aware this was also three courses - it seems I just can't help myself). I went out the back to check out the roastery and got coerced into a game of table tennis with chief roaster Aigars, before eating. I lost, but it was close. What a nice bunch of people.


rocketbean.lv/en

Rocket Bean Roastery, Miera Eela 29, Centra Rajons, Rīga, LV-1001

beautiful food and great pour over coffee at Rocket Bean Roastery, Riga
l


 3) ENTRESOL


A Provence chateaux and shabby chic is the interior theme at ENTRESOL, a restaurant with multiple award-winning chef Raimonds Zommers at the helm. Classic dishes are cooked with contemporary methods, so don't be surprised to find parts of your meal dehydrated, fermented, or cooked in a sous-vide.


From the a la carte, Latvian dishes are easily identified with an icon, for diners that want to specifically experience the local cuisine. Prices for mains usually range between 12 to 20 Euros, so the three courses for 15 Euros, or 20 Euros with the drinks pairing, is a real steal. 

Starters came in the form of a trio of delightful knapas (Latvian small plates): venison tartare with potato foam, white mushroom broth with beer meringue, and dried brown trout with quince jelly and sour cream. For mains, slow-cooked sea trout with pumpkin purée, quince, and vadouvan curry sauce, and dessert was an autumnal plate of apple, five ways.

entresol.lv/en

ENTRESOL, Elizabetes Iela 22, Centra Rajons, Rīga, LV-1050

Riga Restaurant Week dishes at ENTRESOL
l


 4) FERMA


FERMA is most definitely my kind of restaurant. Art Deco accented interiors that are an ode to the functional modernism of the mid-twentieth century, great service, and high-end food without the stuffiness. 

Nestled in the quiet part of the city overlooking Viesturdārzs Park, it's a space that reflects the very middle-class neighbourhood its in, promoting langurous lunches and long evening meals. I hear in the summer, you can enjoy a country-style picnic on the terrace, prepared in a real smoking house, and cooked over an open fire.

A chef at the age of 23, the owner of the first private culinary school in Latvia at 25, and chef-patron of his own restaurant at 29, Māris Astičs is the accomplished man behind FERMA. It's only here that you can order a steak of aged Latvian beef, the house bread keeps with the traditions of Latvian breadmaking and is how the kitchen starts each morning, and local products feature prominently on the menu: wild venison, Baltic salmon, Latvian shrimp, and so on. 

As part of the 20 Euro deal (only available between 12pm - 5pm here), I had a glorious and silky pumpkin and quince soup with goat cheese and wild mushroom toasts, root vegetable stew with porcini cream and wild deer roast beef with juniper glaze, and a sea buckthorn cream cake with basil and honey biscuits.

fermarestorans.lv/en

FERMA, Valkas Iela 7, Centra Rajons, Rīga, LV-1010

Riga Restaurant Week dishes at FERMA
l

Note: This is a sponsored post in collaboration with the Riga and Latvian Tourism Boards. All views remain my own, as always.


Related posts
LATVIA: How to spend 2 days in and around Riga

print button