Showing posts with label food tour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food tour. Show all posts

Tuesday, 20 June 2017

PORTUGAL | 10 things to expect from Intrepid's food-focussed tour through Porto, Lisbon, and the Alentejo region

our lovely Intrepid Travel group in Lisbon

Organised group travel: my first time


I’ve never been on an organised group trip abroad before. Well ok, I have. But they’ve always been designed for “media” – journalists, bloggers, writers etc. How they work is a few people will be sent somewhere, usually with a cool and curated jam-packed agenda, often hosted by a tourism board, in order to showcase the area and all it has to offer. 

Flights, meals, activities, experiences, accommodation, and ground transport are all sorted in advance by the organisers, there’s a comprehensive itinerary (although often a bit too ambitious, with little free/down time), and there isn’t really anything to think about other than making sure you don’t forget your passport.

Porto tiles, Portugal
They’re more often than not awesome (if not excruciatingly exhausting). But when I write up the experience, I’m always left thinking that it would be a real challenge for someone to replicate themselves.

When I take my personal, non-work related trips, I spend inordinate amounts of time researching and planning, especially when it comes to where and what I'll be eating (more on my recent thoughts on eating experiences whilst travelling in TRAVEL | Is VizEat the future of authentic local dining experiences in people's homes?)
. I want the best food for the best price, I want to make sure I'm not 'settling' when there might be a superstar tin shack around the corner, and I want to indulge in as much superlative eating as my finite time and budget can possibly allow. This all requires significant forward planning.

When I went travelling for eight months with my partner back in 2015, I 'planned' for two whole years. I ended up with a gargantuan spreadsheet that would have crashed most computers, with a row for each day of the circa eight months we would be away. What started off as a simple budgeting tool grew into a colour-coded, multi-layered, multi-columned, pivot tabled behemoth. It became the life of two people for most of a year in cell form. So yeah, I can get carried away with pre-holiday research. 


daily scenes in Porto, Portugal
My ideal travel formula is as close to the following as possible: 

MAX. COOL EXPERIENCES + 
BEST NON-TOURISTY AND AUTHENTIC PLACES TO EAT + 
SOLID ACCOMMODATION + 
PLENTY OF PHOTO OPPS + 
SUPPORTING AND INTERACTING WITH THE LOCALS 

= MIN. EXPENSE AND MIN. STRESS

A lot like Einstein’s theory of relativity, (when it’s achieved) it’s a thing of beauty.

It turns out that Intrepid Travel - 'small groups, big adventures and responsible travel' - have my magic formula almost down to a T. They do all the researching, planning, organising and booking on your behalf. Unique experiences, non-touristy places to eat and ways to see things, solid accommodation, for a very reasonable fee. Add to that the feel good factor of their sustainability initiatives, and it’s a winning combination. 

They’re so closely aligned to how I travel anyway, that I will seriously be considering them for my personal trips going forward.

I was invited to an abridged version of their Real Food Adventure - Galicia & Portugal tour. We experienced five out of what would usually be the full eight day trip, skipping the stops in Spain.

For first-time group participants like me, here are 10 things you can expect from Intrepid's food-focussed tour through Porto, Lisbon, and the Alentejo region. 

But before that, here's a short video I stitched together from the trip:


1) Fab group dynamic and small numbers

One of the things Intrepid really pride themselves on are their small group numbers. That number does vary depending on where and how they're travelling, but we're talking an average group size of ten people. Which means you can legitimately all eat together in a restaurant, all fit into a bar - actually do the real life, everyday things - without standing out like a sore thumb. 


There's nothing more touristy then seeing a tour group of 30+ parading through the small cobbled streets of an ancient town, with the leader brandishing an umbrella above their head. Shudders. Intrepid's small groups mean you stay under the radar, and travel, eat and sleep the local way. But there's still enough people in them to create a good social vibe. 

I heard stories of people making friends for life, and there even being a few marriages, thanks to Intrepid. And where there are marriages, babies often follow. To think, you as a travel company, have been the catalyst in helping create new life. That's a pretty big deal. 

And I actually have a friend who has been on a few Intrepid tours, who has stayed close friends with those in his group. He never shuts up about how great they are. I can now totally see why.

good times with our little Intrepid Travel group


2) Urban Adventures local guides and knowledge


Everyone knows that the best people to help you get under the skin of a new destination are those who call that place home. It's the natives that will show you the cool hidden spots, the hang-outs where only the locals go, the hip new joint that's just opened.

I was really impressed that whilst we had Marco from Intrepid with us throughout our whole trip, every time we reached a new destination, we met with a new local guide who lived there. Many of those were from Urban Adventuresa division of Intrepid Travel that focuses on day long city tours (or shorter), that take travellers to the most interesting places to meet locals, and really find out what makes a place tick.

One of my favourite local tours from the trip was when Joana from Urban Adventures met us in Lisbon. She walked and talked us through the Mouraria District with its fabulous street art, the Alfama District where Fado music was born, and took us to a cool hole-in-the-wall bar to sip on some Ginjinha, a Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries, which went straight to my head.

I also really like the fact that the restaurants the meals are eaten in vary depending on the guide, as each will have their own favourites. Nothing is set in stone, and because the group is small, things can be flexible.

our fab local Urban Adventure guides throughout the trip


3) Solid accommodation


One thing I'd mentally prepared myself for was accommodation that left a lot to be desired. For some reason, I'd associated group travel with having to deal with a few compromises. Sure, you'll get all these cool and unique experiences, with a small group of people you really get on with, and you're making memories that will last a lifetime. But, you might have to share a room, or there won't be showering facilities, or your bed is in a pig shed.

Shows what I know. The accommodation was in fact a solid highlight, in all three places we stayed. Intrepid have a budget for beds, and their people on the ground source the best value-for-money rooms. What they guarantee are 'simple, clean and well located hotels', but what I experienced was much more.

Particularly in Lisboa Tejo Hotel, which seemed to have just finished refurbishing all its rooms to a really high standard and design. And even more so, the Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay in the Alentejo region. A positively bucolic setting in rural Portugal, with converted cattle sheds transformed into exquisitely furnished rooms in the style of traditional old Alentejo houses, fully equipped with air conditioning and other mod cons. A truly glorious corner of the world.

Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay in the Alentejo region, Portugal


4) Beautiful sights


As someone who takes a lot of pictures, and likes to share a lot of those on Instagram, one of my high priorities when I travel is seeing and capturing beauty, in all its forms. I'm happy to report, there was no shortage of that on this trip.

From the expansive vistas across Portugal's fertile and wine-producing Douro Valley, to the spectacular tiled facades of Porto's buildings, to the stunning view out the window from our table in Raiz Restaurant in Porto, I barely pulled the camera away from my face.

lots of great sights and photo opportunities, Portugal


5) A lot of food and wine


There was no missing the fact that this was a food (and wine!) focused tour. Of course, any of Intrepid's tours will be punctuated with the day's meals. But in between those meals, we did even more eating and drinking. I was in my element.

On our first day we went on an Urban Adventures walking food tour, stopping to graze on local delicacies along the way, from codfish cakes paired with a caramel and aniseed liquor called Eduardino, to local cured meats and cheeses, to a whole Port tasting.

Our time in the Douro Valley was understandably focused around wine - my kind of day. With two winery visits and several tastings under our belt, we also stopped off at a small and very old olive oil producing plant, to see how it was done in the old days. The lunch from that day, in a traditional restaurant up on a hill, was one of my favourite meals from the trip. Roast turkey (I was gnawing on the bones long after the staff had cleared our plates), local fish, fresh salad, roast potatoes - simple food cooked really well.

And then there was the evening meal at the farm stay (I really did like that farm stay), which was another stellar feed. Vegetable soup, slow roast pig cheeks, roast potatoes, fried eggs from the roaming chickens on the farm, superbly seasoned rice, and more salad. Home cooked food wins for me every time, and it was great to experience some of that on this trip.

some great eating with Intrepid Travel in Portugal


6) Plenty of free time


The thing that has put me - and I reckon a lot of other people - off from considering a group trip before, is the thought of spending all of my time around other people. I am someone that loves (and needs) my own space, and company. And the threat of having to share both for a whole week is frankly, terrifying.

Have no fear. It turns out Intrepid is fully aware and appreciative of this common desire, and so strike a perfect balance between included activities and 'me time'. Not everything is scheduled; not all meals are planned. If you stumble across a cool cafe that you want to chill out in on your own before you head to the next destination, you'll have plenty of time to do that. 

And because all the nitty gritty stuff involving crossing borders, negotiating prices, and organising logistics is taken care of, you can maximise your time off and focus all your energy on having the experience of a lifetime. Amen to that.

down time in Lisbon


7) Sustainable and responsible travel


Here's something that's pretty cool: the majority of Intrepid trips are Carbon Offset. That's over 800 trips! And they're also low impact by design, meaning they try to use public transport where possible (the train from Porto to Lisbon was great fun), stay in locally owned and simpler styles of accommodation (again, that farm stay 💙), and eat at locally owned eateries.

Then there's the whole local guides thing. It translates to economic empowerment, meaning people can earn a living and support their families through tourism, without having to commute for hours, or leave their home altogether. Intrepid end up putting your money into local hands and economies.

There are a few other cool responsible tourism initiatives they can shout about, and you can find more in this report:

  • A Kilimanjaro trek for women’s land rights across Africa
  • Raising $700,000 for Nepal after the earthquake of 2015
  • Our decision to remove orphanages from our itineraries
  • Our drive to employ female tour leaders in India
  • Our progress towards becoming a B-Corp – a certification for businesses to want to benefit society as well their shareholders


It's comforting to know you're giving your hard earned money to a company that takes responsible and sustainable tourism very seriously.

Pinhao train station, Portugal




8) Getting out of the city

the Douro Valley, Portugal

I loved the fact we ventured out of the cities, something I find quite a challenge to achieve on my personal trips. 


My partner doesn't drive, and I have no experience driving on the right hand side (I really need to address that). When it comes to travel, if you don't hire a car, or don't join some sort of tour, it's quite difficult to get out of the city and into the countryside. So I was really pleased to see Intrepid had a healthy mix of urban and rural on this tour.

From Porto we drove for about an hour and arrived at the simply spectacular Douro Valley, where we visited wineries and drank all the wine (you couldn't do that if you hired a car). Also, the roads down the sides of the valley were barely wide enough for a Mini, and excruciatingly steep. I categorically would not have been comfortable driving there anyway. Hence why it's best to have a local behind the wheel, who could probably navigate those tiny roads with their eyes close (our driver's eyes were firmly open). 


And then from Lisbon, we headed to the Alentejo region and stayed on a working farm (oh yes, that farm stay).

9) Unique, real life experiences


I've wanted to try my hand at making cheese since about Christmas 2005, when I was determined someone would get me a Lakeland cheese making kit for Christmas. But it never came to be. 

No worries. Because I got to have a go at making fresh goat's cheese on a farm in the Portuguese countryside, from that morning's milk, whilst the goats bleated away in the field next door. I'm not sure it gets more authentic than that. Much cooler than any Lakeland kit.

This is a great example of some of the unique experiences Intrepid weave into their tours, that you won't find through a search engine. The little noodle bars, the backstreet bodegas, or the live Fado performance Joana took us to in a Lisbon restaurant, that had me covered in goosebumps through all three courses of my dinner.

getting hands on with cheese making, Herdade da Amendoeira farm stay


10) Really good value


Firstly, take a look at the Intrepid website and their prices. You'll notice, they're not expensive. Then when you realise all the stuff that's included, it becomes increasingly apparent how these guys offer unbeatable value.

They offer three styles of travel, all of which come with more inclusions than you might expect on a typical group adventure. Whilst another tour might drop their clan off at the Taj Mahal and leave them to it, the local leaders Intrepid work with will give you great value the whole way. 

Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with Intrepid Travel. I'm honoured they invited me along to experience this trip - I had an absolute blast. I'd love to try out more Intrepid trips! It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on. All views remain my own, as always.

Monday, 28 December 2015

NORTHERN IRELAND: A guide to eating and drinking in and around Belfast

a lot of sea foam at Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland - great fun
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It's almost 2016. Even if you think eating is the last thing on your mind right now (if it is, don't worry - it will pass), allow me to divulge this tasty nugget of information: next year is Northern Ireland's Year of Food and Drink.

Each month will host a different theme of events across the region, ranging from celebrating the charms of a real Northern Irish breakfast throughout January, to paying homage to tasty things hauled from its wonderful waters in July, to all things bread and baking in September. Did somebody say black pudding potato bread (see St. George's Market below)?

This all roughly translates to: if you like your food and appreciate quality artisan culinary craft, get the heck over to Belfast and its surrounding areas and eat until you drop or have to leave, whichever comes first. 

I spent three nights over there with Discover Northern Ireland and Dee Tours of Ireland to experience what culinary delights this part of the world has to offer. There's a lot, so here's a little guide to get you going.

Where to eat in Belfast


Hannan Meats at James Street Bar & Grill


Peter Hannan is known as the Meat Merchant for a good reason - his life work is all about perfecting his award-winning products that include beef and lamb dry-aged in a Himalayan salt chamber - swoon. We were treated to three courses of endless Hannan meats at Belfast Bar and Grill, with the head chef using some innovative cooking techniques to show them off in all their glory.

Cured ox-cheeks were given the sous vide treatment then finished on the grill, sporting an incredible deep ruby colour and gorgeous texture. Then there were sugar pit-cooked beef ribs, and chateaubriand. There was probably enough to generously feed 20; we were but eight. Such is the generosity of the Belfast people, I quickly came to realise. 

Hannan's meats can be found in some of Northern Ireland's top restaurants, as well as further afield - top London chef Mark Hix is a huge fan himself, using the exclusive Glenarm Shorthorn steaks throughout his restaurant group. And Fortnum & Mason's have just got their hands on the goods too.

It's nice to know I don't have to cross the Irish Sea to sample those again.

hannanmeats.com
James Street Bar & Grill, 21 James St S, Belfast BT2 7GA

serious meat sweats at James St Bar & Grill in Belfast

OX Belfast


I'm a sucker for a good tasting menu, as long as it's without too much pretense. And as long as it's not fussy - I'm not a fan of fuss. OX Belfast is the place for a blinding one of these, and a faultless meal altogether. It might have been my favourite eat from the weekend.

The highlights from a great bunch: hay-baked celeriac with lardo, black trompettes and truffles - an earthy plate of foraged woodland delight; halibut with mussels, salsify and a sail of sea lettuce perched on top - of the sea, and very pretty; and Chateaubriand with foie gras, butternut squash and lovage. There were fitting wine pairings - a bright Rioja, Cotes du Rhone, a fruity Nero d’Avola - and we finished off by sauntering into the adjoining OX Cave for a very splendid spread of cheese, and a little more wine, at about 11.45pm. As one does.

The service was wonderful and the food showcased the great Northern Irish larder. OX Belfast is more than worthy of all its recent accolades, including a Michelin star. Not to mention the whole cast of Game of Thrones were on the table next to us (a lot of it is filmed in the surrounding areas), along with James Nesbitt - you might be able to spot him in the collage below.

Do not miss this restaurant when visiting Belfast.

oxbelfast.com
OX Belfast, 1 Oxford St, Belfast BT1 3LA

Michelin-starred tasting menu at Ox Belfast, alongside the cast of Game of Thrones



The Barking Dog


A pretty venue on Malone Road where Chef proprietor Michael O’Connor lets quality ingredients speak for themselves. I had a fish pie packed with fresh and flaking hunks, complete with boiled egg and fab mash. It went down barely touching the sides.

barkingdogbelfast.com
The Barking Dog, 33-35 Malone Rd, Belfast, Antrim BT9 6RU

street art by Danny Devenny, a prolific mural painter in Belfast
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Where to drink in Belfast


"I'm not an alcoholic, I'm Irish," is a good way to justify one too many, and a phrase I heard more than once during my time in Northern Ireland. I might start using it.


The locals like a tipple - or five - and there are a lot of good places to enjoy them. We let a couple of experts - Phil and Caroline from Belfast Food Tours - show us their favourite haunts during their very good Pub and Bar Tour of Belfast.


Needless to say, it was a good evening.

The Spaniard


This place is very far up my street. If I had The Spaniard near where I live, I would be in it a lot.

It's a three story bar found in the Cathedral Quarter dripping from floor to ceiling in catholic paraphernalia, right down to the little crucifix shaped light-bulbs on the ceiling. It wouldn't be out of place as a set from Baz Luhrmann's Romeo & Juliet

Disciples of rum come to The Spaniard to worship - they are exceedingly good at that brooding classic, the Dark and Stormy. The best I've had, no question. Note: there's no confession box should you wish to rid yourself of any drunken-antics shame. 

thespaniardbar.com
The Spaniard, 3 Skipper St, Belfast, County Antrim BT1 2DZ

holier than thou scenes at The Spaniard in Belfast




Duke of York


To me, the Duke of York is the quintessential classic Irish boozer, or what I'd expect from one. Bolshy, well lit, full of good craic and with a big heart.

You'll find it nestled along a narrow cobbled alleyway in the historic Half Bap area, furnished with Belfast furniture and walls adorned with antique mirrors and artefacts from some of the city’s most famous hotels and buildings from bygone times.

It's a time warp, which is why it is so well loved, and busy. Step into this institution, enjoy a local whisky or creamy stout, and you'll be treated to a glimpse of Belfast's historical past. 

dukeofyorkbelfast.com
Duke of York, 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast BT1 2NB


classic Irish boozer found at the much loved The Duke of York in Belfast

The Dirty Onion


Traditional live music every night of the week in an outdoor setting is one of The Dirty Onion's big draws. It's in one of the city's oldest buildings, originally constructed around the 1750's as a warehouse, and reintroduced as a traditional public house with a modern twist.

It's got an industrial unfinished look about it - all part of the charm. We imbibed on some Dunville Irish whiskey shots to warm the cockles. It certainly did that.

thedirtyonion.com

The Dirty Onion, 3 Hill St, Belfast BT1 2LA

A.P.O.C


A.P.O.C - or Arranged Presence of Company, in case you were wondering - is a cocktail bar with a speakeasy feel inspired by early 20th century decor. This is the place to sip on wintry drinks by a roaring fireside.

We sampled the wild berries and grassy notes of Shortcross gin distilled at Rademon Estate, where they are proud to be Northern Ireland’s First Award Winning Craft Distillery. There's a lot of love that goes into Shortcross - they hand bottle, wax dip and sign each bottle.

apocbelfast.com

A.P.O.C., 1 Goose Entry, Belfast, BT1 1FP

tipples enjoyed at The Dirty Onion, APOC, and The Hudson





Sunflower


I didn't want to leave the Sunflower. We walked in and there was a table 'reserved for musicians' where a few guys were jamming with acoustic guitars and ukuleles. I sat down next to one of them and started tapping my feet to the traditional music. I was pretty close to getting up and doing a jig if I'm honest. 

Really great vibes, a place where once you find a nook to settle in, you could easily stay for hours.

facebook.com/sunflowerpublichouse
Sunflower Public House, Union St, Belfast, County Antrim BT1 2JG

fantastic traditional folk music being played around the
table 'reserved for musicians' at Sunflower in Belfast

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Where to eat in Northern Ireland


Harry's Shack


Here's a do-not-miss for you. Harry's Shack in Portstewart. It's right on the sea; we were overlooking a frothing Atlantic Ocean raging under the watery winter sunshine while gorging on fresh fish and local beer. In the summer, surfers and sun tanners wander on up from the beach, bringing in the sand on their flip-flops. 

Jay Rayner, food critic at The Guardian, gave it a glowing review. People drive from far and wide to eat here. For those stationed in Belfast, the restaurant it's a doable 1 hour 15 minutes drive without traffic. Go for lunch, linger on the beach, check out the surrounding countryside - make a day of it.

Harry's Shack is a spruced up and expanded shed owned by the National Trust. Perhaps because of this, they don't currently have a license to sell alcohol, so it's bring your own. Which means an already surprisingly low restaurant bill ends up even lower than you might be anticipating.

The thing to have here is fish. Local boats bring in the daily haul from neighbouring ports. Expect the likes of buttermilk battered haddock with chips and mushy peas; hake with spiced potato and chorizo stew; plaice with bacon, cockles, fennel and mash; prawns in garlic butter; crab salads; Abernethy butter with sea salt and dulse (seaweed); fabulous sourdough; and the rest.

Harry's Shack is an ode to the simple but marvellous things in life, showcasing the great produce from both land and sea this part of the world has to offer. It is well worth the journey.

www.facebook.com/HarrysShack
Harry's Shack, 116 Strand Rd, Portstewart BT55 7PG

glorious feasting from local waters at Harry's Shack in Portstewart, Northern Ireland
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The River Room, Galgorm


This is the 40-cover fine-dining restaurant at the splendid Galgorm Resort and Spa, set in 163 acres of parkland in the Antrim countryside, a mere 30 minutes north of Belfast. Head Chef Chris Rees tries to make sure all the produce is Irish, apart from a few unavoidable things like foie gras. The space overlooks the river and serene grounds, and plates exhibit both clarity of flavour and ideas. 

It's a place for a special occasion. It even has an adjoining gin bar with a menu so comprehensive, it's enough to send your head in a gin spin before you've even started drinking.

galgorm.com/river-room
Galgorm Resort and Spa, Galgorm, Co. Antrim BT42 1EA

tasting menu at The River Room in Galgorm Resort & Spa, Northern Ireland
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What to do in Belfast


Food tour with Belfast Food Tours


I am the first to sing the praises of a good food tour. One of the best ways to explore the culinary scene of a new destination is under the expertise and guidance of a local who knows their food. That's why I'm a good guided food tour's biggest fan, and always try to find an expert to show me the ropes when I'm in a new city. 

And so, if you find yourself in Belfast, even for a fleeting visit, I urge you to make a tour with the enthusiastic and effervescent Caroline from Belfast Food Tours your top priority. It's so good, even the locals go on it.

You'll visit 8 different places, taste over 20 foods and drinks from Northern Ireland over the 4.5 hours, and it costs a mere £40.

Here are some of the stops and treats we sampled:

St George's Market


St George’s Market is one of Belfast’s oldest attractions. Built in the 1890's, it's been voted one of the best markets in the UK and Ireland, winning all sorts of awards and titles. This is the place to go on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday to get hold of a huge range of goodies, both edible and not. My favourite are the former, obviously.

St. George's Market in Belfast in full festive weekend swing
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We ate and drank from the following, to name a few:

  • SD Bell & Co. Ltd - Ireland's oldest independent tea importer and coffee roaster, doing their thing for over 125 years
  • Ann's Pantry - award-winning spelt and black pudding potato bread and Irish soda farl - as good as that sounds
  • Alan Coffey fishmonger - oysters, fat prawns, scallops, all sorts
  • Hillstown Farmshop - meat farmers that also brew their own Irish stout which they feed to the cattle to produce a Kobe type beef - YES 
  • Mike's Fancy Cheese - 'Young Buck' is a blue cheese and Northern Ireland's first raw milk cheese. It was also this year's silver winner in the blue cheese category at the Irish Cheese Awards held in Dublin

visit-belfast.com/things-to-do/member/st-georges-market
East Bridge St, Belfast BT1 3NQ


loads of fantastic local artisan produce to be found in St. George's Market in Belfast
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The Garrick Bar


Established in 1870, The Garrick is a multiple award-winning traditional pub in the heart of Belfast, and one of the oldest in the city. We took part in an 11am lock-in to drink McGraths Irish Black Stout, and eat a bowl of champ, before it opened for the punters.

Champ, if you don't know (I didn't) is an everyday wholesome Irish dish of mashed potatoes with chopped spring onions, butter and milk. Splendid it is too.

thegarrickbar.com
29 Chichester Street, Belfast BT1 4JB

Co Couture


Chocolatier Deirdre is responsible for the delightful Co Couture - a little boutique chocolate company full of everything you want to buy - Deirde’s own bars, filled couture chocolates, chocolate honeycomb, popcorn and hazelnuts, as well as Grenada chocolate bars and Willie’s chocolate bars too.

You can pop in for a cup of glorious hot chocolate to enjoy at one of the two tables, or to take with you. It was dreamy, topped with Deirdre's homemade marshmallow, and with a square of entirely irresistible squidgy brownie.

cocouture.co.uk
7 Chichester Street, Belfast BT1 4JA

clockwise from top left: very special hot chocolate from Co Couture; the effervescent Caroline from Belfast Food Tour; champ and black stout at The Garrick; more booze at The John Hewitt; David talking beans at Established; Deirdre from Co Couture
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The John Hewitt


There's something special about this pub in that it's owned by The Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre, who had always relied on grants and charity to fund its work. 

In the mid-nineties, the management decided to generate some of their own money by going into business, and doing so with this pub. Once overheads and wages are paid, every bit of profit goes back to the centre. A better place than any to give your beer money to.

This is an old-world pub offering real ales and gastropub fare, plus regular, live, traditional Irish music. Our ales were Cloughmore Heather Irish Pale Ale and Hilden Twisted Hop - good they were too.

thejohnhewitt.com
51 Donegall St, Belfast BT1 2FH


Established


You want to come here for brunch and specialist coffee served by lovely guys with full beards wearing aprons. We only stopped for a cup, but I could see some glorious plates of food flying past.

It's slick and minimalist and is just the place to settle a while with your Mac and a Chemex brew whilst enjoying a cauliflower hash brown with beet tzatziki, spring onion butter, greens, a fried egg and dukkah. I mean, how ideal does that scene sound?

facebook.com/establishedcoffee
54 Hill St, Belfast BT1 2LB

Coppi


Because we clearly hadn't eaten and drunk enough (!), the tour finished with a full on feast at Italian restaurant Coppi.

Highlights were more Peter Hannan meats (see earlier), specifically his beef salted in pink Himalayan salt caves. The duck ravioli was ace too. There was also roast hake, duck pizza, local scallops, Parmesan fries, and more prosecco than we probably needed.

Caroline had bought some of that glorious Young Buck blue cheese earlier on in St George's Market - she whipped it out at the end of the meal to enjoy with Passion Preserved watermelon rind pickle (INCREDIBLE) and hand-churned Abernethy butter and the whole thing was nothing short of a dream boat.

coppi.co.uk
Unit 2 Saint Anne's Square, Cathedral Quarter, Belfast BT1 2LR

this very good lunch at Coppi in Belfast wrapped up our food tour
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Where to visit in Belfast and Northern Ireland


Titanic Belfast


To be given the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of the men who built the world’s most famous ship, at the very site of its construction, is really very cool indeed. 


Now Northern Ireland's most visited attraction, the iconic six-floor building takes visitors though nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from her conception in the early 1900's, through to her construction and launch, to her famous maiden voyage, and to her tragic end.

If you liked the film, you'll probably really enjoy this as it gives everything much more context. Only after this visit did I truly appreciate what an incredible feat of engineering ship building was in that era. Fascinating stuff, and really nicely done with lots of videos, interactive bits, and even a ride. You'll need about one hour and a half there - don't miss it.

titanicbelfast.com
£17.00 per adult / £7.25 per child / £42 per family 

Giant's Causeway

Regular readers will know that after food and eating, my second greatest passion is the great outdoors, weather, nature, rocks, wildlife - all that jazz. Which is probably why I love taking photographs of landscapes (a shameless and tenuous plug for my photography website).

So when I found out the weekend would be lots of scoffing intercepted with a scenic coastal drive ending at Giant's Causeway, I was nothing short of thrilled.

That drive hugs the ocean and four looped routes link the towns Glenarm, Carnlough, Cushendall and Cushendun, allowing visitors to travel inland and explore the famous Glens of Antrim.

It's this part of the world where most of Game of Thrones is filmed too, so if you're a fan, you could do a set location pilgrimage. Alas, wasted on me - never watched an episode. But I can appreciate why Northern Ireland is so suited for it - parts of the landscape feel like it's been there forever.

mouth of Cushendun Cave, where Melissandra gives birth to the
shadow baby in Game of Thrones, Northern Ireland




Cushendun, Northern Ireland
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Then there's Giant's Causeway. You've got the raging North Atlantic Ocean on one side, and dramatic cliff faces on the other. Then there are the world-famous basalt columns, about 40,000 of them all interlocking thanks to their striking hexagonal shape. The result of a volcanic eruption 50 million years ago, or the remnants of a sea crossing built by giants? You decide.

This is a place for bird-watching, hiking, breathing in that sea air, donning your geology hat, and exercising your photography skills.
 

Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland
a windy and sleety Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland
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It's also the place to get covered in frothed-up sea foam I mistakenly took for sleet when I was standing further away (see first video below).

I would also highly recommend going through the 'Windy Gap'. It's a narrow passage between the rocks that forces the air through  at a greater speed. We visited Giant's Causeway during Storm Clodagh, so it was windy anyway. 




Then we tried to walk through that gap, tried being the operative word. I've never experienced winds that strong. 60mph apparently; it was a struggle to stay upright. Plus there was very sharp sleet trying to slice my face open, also at 60mph - hence why I keep pulling my hood down. 

The video below got retweeted by a Northern Irish BBC weather presenter, and the actual Northern Ireland BBC Weather account. Famous.


Where to stay in Northern Ireland


Galgorm Resort & Spa


When I told people who know Northern Ireland we'd be spending a night at Galgorm Resort & Spa, I got a a lot of cooing in return.

It's the region's premier luxury hotel, and spa, just a 30 minute drive from Belfast.
Set within 163 acres of lush parkland with the lovely River Maine flowing through the estate, it's close to both Belfast airports and the stunning scenery of the North Antrim Coast. In otherwords, a great base from which to explore the region, then have a soak. 

galgorm.com
Galgorm Resort and Spa, Galgorm, Co. Antrim BT42 1EA

River Room at Galgorm Resort & Spa
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Useful information


DEE TOURS OF IRELAND
deetoursireland.com
07812 739 683

BELFAST PUB AND BAR TOUR 
belfastfoodtour.com
£35 per person 

BELFAST FOOD TOUR 
belfastfoodtour.com
£40 per person 
Operates every Saturday and some Fridays and Sundays 
8 Destinations over 4.5 hours long 
Private and group tours are available on request for 12 or more

TITANIC BELFAST
titanicbelfast.com
£17.00 per adult / £7.25 per child / £42 per family 

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
nationaltrust.org.uk/giants-causeway
£9.00 per adult / £4.50 per child / £22 per family

GALGORM RESORT & SPA
galgorm.com
Superior Rooms start from £95 per room per night based on two people sharing

TOURISM IRELAND
ireland.com
Union St, Belfast, County Antrim BT1 2JG

Disclaimer


Note: Tourism Ireland kindly hosted this trip, including flights, as part of a media package - thank you to everyone involved for a truly wonderful and unique experience. 
 
A special note also goes out to Addison Lee Cabs who whisked me to the airport and also met me on arrival when I returned to London. Their free in-car wifi and charging stations are particularly handy when you forget to do all those important things before running out of the house.

Their loyalty service is also worth reading up on if you're a regular cab user - ClubLee gives some worthy discounts and exclusive offers.

All views remain my own.

our fab Belfast group
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Do take a look at the coverage from the rest of our great group of fellow food and travel writers and bloggers (pictured above), from left to right: Giulia from Mondomulia, Karen from Lavender and Lovage, Hugh from Hugh's Food, Lucy from Food Goblin and Niamh from Eat Like a Girl.


Postcards from Northern Ireland


Northern Ireland
Northern Ireland


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