ITALY | 10 places to eat and things to do in Catania, Sicily (in partnership with HomeAway)

me and my awesome crazy pals in Catania, Sicily

I've wanted to visit Sicily for as long as I can remember. Partly because of the story my mum loves to recount, from when she spent her early twenties living there (in Catania, specifically), working as an au pair for a family that was, unbeknownst to her at the time, very much central to the Sicilian mafia. She wasn't made aware until one morning, after my mum had fed the children breakfast, the family matriarch ominously advised quietly in her ear to 'get out', while she still could. 

And that time when my mum had an actual real life gun fired at her through the back window of a car she was in, due to mistaken identity. Again, mafia related. It missed her, thankfully. But I'm sure it was all mega lolz at the time. 

Couple all of the above with the fact I also love The Godfather, and you have yourself a bonafide Sicily fan.

South Italian stereotypes and lores from the 70s aside, Sicily probably isn't quite like any of that anymore. But what it has undoubtedly retained is its majestic beauty, and the friendliness of its people. Not to mention, there's something deliciously dangerous about living in the shadow of a tremendous volcano (the most active in Europe), that could blow its top and rain down all iterations of hell at any given moment. I even went hiking across an active volcanic range in Iceland once, whilst it was on red alert. That was fun.

scenes from Catania in Sicily
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So when the fine folk from HomeAway got in touch one day, with one of those emails that makes you air punch so hard you end up pulling something, I was thrilled. It went along the lines of, "Hi Leyla, we really like your stuff. Can we send you somewhere in Europe, with a few of your friends, to experience one of our properties? We'd like you to explore the area, and also really make use of the kitchen. Where would you like to go?'. 

To which I said, yes you absolutely may. And Sicily it must be.

The particularly good thing about the listings on HomeAway, compared to other holiday rental platforms or old school hotels, is you only ever get the whole property – kitchen, lounge, dining room, the lot. And you only share it with the people you choose to. 

My chosen squad for this trip? None other than some of my London Cheap Eats team members, the awesome Steph Chan, Ed Tan and Bisi Bajomo. Because whilst I may not be able to pay the team for all the incredible work they do on London Cheap Eats, I can sure as hell get at least some of them to join me in Italy.

Palazzo Asmundo

Allow me to first dedicate some space to the property in Catania that HomeAway booked for us. It's called Palazzo Asmundo, and in case you're wondering, yes, palazzo in Italian does mean palace. And palace is the exact correct word for this place.
 

downstairs at our HomeAway property in Catania, Palazzo Asmundo
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A high-end five bedroom, five bathroom, luxury penthouse palace, right in the heart of Catania, set over two floors, with a roof garden and terrace, two huge kitchens, full of art, and an outstanding view of the mighty Mount Etna. There were only four of us, which meant we could keep one bedroom untouched for ample Instagram photography purposes. Very important.

If you check out the Part 1 video below, you'll see a speeded up run through of the whole property, which will give you a real feel the place.

upstairs at our HomeAway property in Catania, Palazzo Asmundo
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Not to mention the place comes with a maid who services it for two hours each day, much like a hotel. So you come home to plush beds, pristine bathrooms, and more importantly, no washing up. Here's the listing on HomeAway.

The property can sleep up to five couples and is around £500 a night. If you can fill it, that works out as a mere £50 a night per person, for unrivalled grandeur. That is great value.

What to do and where to eat in Catania, Sicily

Catania isn't a place with a huge amount of sightseeing to be done. But, it is exceedingly pretty, and full of great food. Which is perfect, if like me, your trips away are centred around where you'll be having your meals, punctuated with gleefully aimless wandering and picture taking in between. Rather than, say, queuing up for hours to see big hitters, surrounded by endless hoards of tourists *shudders*.

With that in mind, I've pulled together a loose guide on what you could get up to, and where you should eat it, if you were to find yourself in this gem of city for a couple of days.

But before that, here's the first of two videos I made from our long weekend there. It ends in some questionable dance moves, meaning it's worth watching. I'd also love to know what you think of it in the comments at the end of this blog post, or under the video itself on YouTube. Part 2 will follow soon!

1) VISIT | Catania Fish Market

This is the one thing you really must visit in Catania before you leave, especially if you're into your food and/or photography. Even British chef and fish fiend Rick Stein described Catania Fish Market as one of the best fish markets in Europe.

Expect cheery bunting, majestic architecture, and incredible produce, both from land and from sea. The fish come from Mazara del Vallo, Italy's largest fishing port, in southwest Sicily, as well as smaller ports famed for specific things, like anchovies from Sciacca, and swordfish from Favignana. It's a spectacle, everyone is exceedingly friendly, and it's where we bought all the ingredients for the home cooked Sicilian lunch we made that Sunday (more on that below).

The market as a whole is referred to as the Fish Market, but it does also sell plenty of fruit and veg. It's open during the morning every day of the week, lasts a little longer on Saturdays, and is closed on Sundays. 

Located off Piazza Duomo near the cathedral and fountain ("dell'Amenano"), between Via Garibaldi and Via Pacini, extending along Via Gemelli Zappalà.

Catania Fish Market

2) DO | Make use of local produce, and cook!

One thing we certainly did quite a bit of in Catania, was unashamedly bask in the grandeur of our HomeAway property. Understandable. 

On the terrace we enjoyed all our breakfasts, a couple of great lunches, and marvelled at the fact we could spot red filaments of lava flows against a silhouetted Etna once the sun went down.

During my eight month travel stint back in 2015, our accommodation was almost exclusively rental properties, and absolutely always with access to a kitchen. Being at the mercy of noisy neighbours and hotel breakfast buffet timings, has never been something that appeals to me. 

The freedom the HomeAway properties give to enjoy what you want at your own pace, with the people you want, in a space you don't need to share, is pretty much my exact checklist when it comes to choosing where to stay while travelling.

the fantastic breakfasts we enjoyed on our terrace

And then there's cooking. Where I can, I always like to get into the spirit of local life by raiding a glorious market for fabulous produce, and rustling up a dish traditional to the area I'm staying.

For Sunday lunch, we made two Sicilian staples: pasta con le sarde (sardine pasta) and caponata, a type of aubergine stew. We furnished the meal with fennel and blood orange salad, steamed artichokes, huge roasted onions, cured meats, and bread. All the ingredients were bought from the market on Saturday, and we cooked up a storm on Sunday. It was a glorious feast; props to Ed, Bisi and Steph who did all the hard work while I was busy taking pictures and nibbling on olives. 

And endless thanks to lovely Guenter, the property owner, who stocked the place with so much booze for us, that we had no need to buy any alcohol.

the epic Sunday lunch my friends cooked in our HomeAway property, Catania
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3) EAT | Snack at Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab

You'll find this little hole in the wall in the midst of the fish market, on the site of an old butcher shop, with white tiles on the walls and meat hooks still on view to the public.  

These guys fry the best of Sicily's seafood on the spot, wrapped in traditional straw paper cones, enjoyed amongst the heady mix of an Arab and Mediterranean market atmosphere. Full of flavour, really moreish, and very fresh - it's easy to get carried away and keep ordering more cones.

It also overlooks the spot where the smaller boats display their catches, with lots of tables loaded with all things fresh and silvery from the sea.

sciroccolab.com/en/
Piazza Alonzo Di Benedetto n.7, 95121 Catania

the really very good fried fish from Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab in the fish market, Catania

4) EAT | An al fresco lunch at Razmataz

This is the place our HomeAway host recommended, when I asked where locals eat for lunch. Wines by the glass, draught and bottled beer and an ample cocktail list are offered at this dreamy wine bar, with tables invitingly spread out across the tree-shaded flagstones of a quaint backstreet square. It doubles as a café in the morning, but really gets packed with locals from aperitivo time onward.

Check the blackboard for a daily-changing selection of light meals; it was great to see local Sicilian dishes other than pasta. We enjoyed black rice with Jerusalem artichokes, peas and leeks; orange and fennel salad; roast chicken and potatoes; a whole veal rib; seriously great veal meatballs with lemon leaves; and a bottle of red from a vineyard on the slopes of Mount Etna. 

Do not miss eating here if you find yourself in Catania. And check out the video above for some behind the scenes from our meal at Razmataz.

Facebook page
Via Montesano n.17, 95131 Catania
 

a fabulous lunch had at Razmataz Wine Bar, Catania
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5) EAT | Gelato at Savia

Obviously when anywhere in Italy, one must seek out gelato. Which is what I always do, with much gusto. But the hazlenut gelato from Savia in Catania, is hands down the best gelato I've ever had. 

I even popped over to Bologna and Florence on a separate trip, straight after Sicily, and shovelled in as much gelato as I could find; nothing came close. And nothing has before.

This was another recommendation from our HomeAway host, but it also came up in our pre-visit research. She did, however, specifically single out the hazelnut gelato as the best in Catania. I reckon it could well be the best on the island. Outstanding texture, intense hazelnut flavour, and even the thin wafer waffle cone was a total delight.

Savia is in fact a pasticceria - a pastry shop - that happens to sell gelato. In a brioche bun too, if you're feeling fancy. Which means this is also the place to buy pastries, cakes, Italian biscuits, and also arancini, which was very tasty. Check out more of our verdict on Savia in the video further up.

savia.it
Pasticceria Savia, Via Etnea n. 302/304, 95100 Catania

the best gelato I've ever had (specifically the hazelnut), from Savia in Catania
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6) EAT | All the pasta at Al Tortellino

This is a very casual, friendly, brightly-lit spot, regarded by locals as the home of homemade pasta in Catania.

Don't come here for a romantic dinner by candlelight, but do some for a range of great value pasta dishes. Expect tasty Sicilian classics like pasta alla norma (pasta with aubergine), pasta with pistacho sausage and a cream sauce, gnocchi with buffaloo mozzarella, and the rest.

They also serve pizza, which we started with, and totally didn't need. Along with four plates of pasta, and a large bottle of beer, the bill didn't come to much more than 20 Euros for four of us.

Facebook page
Via Simili Giuseppe n.20, 95129 Catania

lots of local pasta dishes at Al Tortellino, Catania
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7) VISIT | The glorious piazzas

Head to the Piazza del Duomo at the heart of the city, for a splendid circuit of Sicilian Baroque masterpieces. The square is a major meeting point for both people and the city's principle streets, which converge at the piazza. Which makes it difficult to get too lost. It's also worth strolling through in the evening, when the restaurants are busy and the cathedral is lit.

The modest ruins of a Roman theatre, below street level in Piazza Stesicoro, discovered in the early twentieth century, are certainly worth a look. You can do so from street level, admiring it from over the fence, or pay to descend and have a wander through the ruins themselves.

Piazza Stesicoro, 95100 Catania
Piazza del Duomo, central Catania

 Piazza Stesicoro (with the ruins) and Piazza del Duomo, Catania
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8) DO | Get off the beaten track

If you explore heading south from the city centre, you'll come across neighbourhoods that I took to be where the majority of Catanians actually live (as opposed to the city centre). It has a rugged beauty; what you might expect southern Italy to look like in your mind's eye.

There are a lot of opportunities for great photos here, and we spent a good half hour getting a group shot of us jumping around like loons, thanks to a spider tripod Ed brought along (this blog post's main picture was the winning shot, mostly because of Bisi's mesmerising levitation skills).

On our wanderings south, we also came across the only real street food we found in Catania. In both cases, men were barbecuing meat out on the pavement. Punters were buying it straight up, only sometimes between some bread. We had some sausage, and it was really very good indeed. More on that in the part two video coming soon.

getting off the beaten track in Catania

9) DO | Check out the night life

Mercati Generali is probably the island's most influential club, spread out over the warehouses and pressing rooms of a restored 19th-century winery, in the distant southern suburbs of Catania. In summer, the scene moves outside into the palm-shaded garden courtyard. We didn't go there, as it was a little far out from where we were staying. But if you're the raving type, it sounds like it shouldn't be missed, frequently playing host to some of Europe's top DJ's

Instead, we strategically kept our Saturday night within stumbling distance from the palazzo. We started off with a few Negronis at Gammazita, an urban space and open-air library devoted to cultural sharing, which also has a DJ playing some banging tunes in the evening.

And then we ended up at Mingo Lounge Bar, quite literally around the corner from where we were staying. All I really remember from there is that we had the whole place to ourselves, and made damn good use of that dance floor. Plenty of evidence in the video further up.

gammazita.it
Piazza Federico di Svevia n.92, 95121 Catania

Mingo Lounge Bar
Via Auteri, 95100 Catania

10) VISIT | The slopes of Mount Etna 

a spectacular smoking Mount Etna
on the flight into Catania

One thing we didn't get a chance to do, which I would absolutely prioritise on a return visit, is head out of the city, especially closer to the volcano. 

The slopes of Etna are home to wineries, wine festivals, restaurants and hotels. And places like Taormina, about an hour and a half drive up the coast, are meant to be quite spectacular.

What really appeals to me is trekking for a few hours along a nature trail - of which Mount Etna has many - and soaking up those glorious views. This website seemed quite useful.  


Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with HomeAway. It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on - thanks very much for the opportunity. All views remain my own, as always.

Another note: the imagery used in this post is a combination of mine, Ed's, Bisi's and Steph's. Thanks for the great photoraphy skills guys!

LATVIA: How to spend 2 days in and around Riga

a pictureque Sigulda, Latvia
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What to do in Riga

Exploring more of the Baltics has been high on my list for a while. Surely, there was no better place to begin such a quest than with a city I knew little, if anything about. A city that also turned out to be full of surprises.

Sure, Latvia's capital of Riga has been designated as a European Region of Gastronomy for 2017 (check out LATVIA: 4 places to eat during Riga Restaurant Week for more insight into that) - no biggie. Not. But did you also know, it's home to some unrivalled architecture, mega markets, and is the birthplace of an international Christmas tradition?

Didn't think so. And neither did I. Riga is an ideal European destination for a short weekend break. Here's my guide on how to spend a couple of days there, where to stay, how to get there, and of course, where to eat.

Wander around the Old Town and enjoy the architecture

Riga is the perfect city for architect enthusiasts. The buildings are stunning, notably because the capital has the highest density of art nouveau buildings in the world, many say. In fact, the Art Nouveau style makes up roughly a third of all the buildings in Riga. Which basically means every corner is damn gorgeous, and keeps stopping people in their tracks.

A great way to see the highlights of the Old Town is through the tour provided by E.A.T. Riga (their name actually isn't to do with food - it stands for something else, which I've usefully forgotton). These guys offer all sorts of tours, from those on two wheels to those on two feet, those that involve activities from shooting and folk dancing to curling and husky dog sledging, as well as boat tours, food and drink tours (see below), and day trips out of town.

I got a sort of mash up between the Art Nouveau tour and the Old Town tour, with guide James taking us through the ages of this part of the world, up to the present day, without rattling off too much information; an affliction of many a tour guide I've experienced.

The city is also famous for its Christmas markets, and here's an interesting fact: the tradition of decorating Christmas trees is believed to have originated in Riga, just over 500 years ago. Who knew! 

eatriga.lv

scenes from Riga, Latvia

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Explore Riga's Central Market and get acquainted with local flavours

Right people, listen up. I have news. Riga has one of the largest, if not the largest, food market in Europe. Did you know that? Of course you didn't. Does anyone? I definitely did not.

I remember a German journalist I was on a trip with to Valencia, shortly before my visit to Latvia, mentioning in passing, that Riga was home to the largest food market in Europe. I dismissed it with little further thought. Then I got to Latvia, and learnt it was true.

If sampling local cuisine is a big part of why you travel (you probably wouldn't be here if this wasn't the case), then exploring Riga's Central Market is a given. And if you do this with the nice folk from E.A.T. Riga as part of their Food Tasting Tour, you'll also get to graze on a load of local delicacies on the way.

The intention of this tour is to show that there's more to Latvian food than the typical stereotype of a pork, cabbage, and potato, post-Soviet diet. Plus, you'll learn about the history of the market, what the locals eat, and where they eat it.

What I really appreciate about the Nordic and Baltic countries, is their strong relationship with what grows wild. Foraging is second nature. Going out to pick mushrooms and berries is a standard pastime, and this was evident from the produce on sale. And what's quaint about this mega market is that despite its enormous size, there are many locals with tiny stalls, selling small amounts of a delightful mish-mash of goods, harvested from their garden or local forest. A couple of jars of berries here, seven apples there, a bunch of rosemary...

eatriga.lv
rct.lv/en/

Riga Central Market

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Take a day trip to Sigulda

Sigulda is a place of hill-top castles, sandy caves dotted along the Gauja River, and wild nature. This area, also part of the Gauja National Park and just 53km from Riga, is the place to experience Latvia's natural beauty in all its glory.

When you're there, stop for lunch at the cosy Doma Cafe and enjoy coffee, smoothies, homemade burgers and baguettes, green salads, or very lovely waffles. Enjoy the sweeping views of the Gauja Valley from 42m in the air, as you ride the 1020m long cablecar that connects both banks of the river.

And definitely do not miss popping in to see Janis, and his seriously impressive home wine-making set-up you'll find at Krimulda Manor. Great big stainless steel vats conceal gallons of multi-coloured home brews; wines, made from almost every type of flower and berry. From seabuckthorn and rhubarb wines, to lilac flower and dandelion wines. He bid me farewell with a bottle of cranberry wine, which tasted like boozy Ocean Spray, and that can only be a wonderful thing.

Sigulda's biggest draw though, is the changing colours of autumn. The valley is the most favoured spot across the whole country, to watch the leaves turn. If a dry and sunny weekend is forecasted during October or November, expect thousands to descend onto the area. 

Regular trains run from Riga to Sigulda on the Riga – Valga line, but these can get busy in the summer months. The journey lasts about 1 hour 15 minutes, and it's a great way to reach the castles, river valley, and forests, especially if you have a bicycle with you.

tourism.sigulda.lv

out and about in Sigulda, Latvia

Where to eat in Riga

Don't worry, I've got you covered. You'll find some of my favourite picks in this post: 4 places to eat during Riga restaurant week.

Where to stay in Riga

Pullman Riga Old Town

At the heart of Riga's historic centre you'll find Pullman Riga Old Town Hotel - it's in a great location. Occupying a magnificent building from 1789, it has been merged with a completely modern structure and is only a few months old at the time of writing.

It lies exactly in the Old Town, and neighbours Dome Square, Parliament, the National Theatre, Freedom Monument, and the National Opera.

Jēkaba iela 24, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1050
pullmanriga.lv

Pullman Riga Old Town, Riga

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How to get to Riga

Riga is just a two hour and 45 minute flight from London - no excuse not to pop over!

I flew with Air Baltic business class. Whilst the seats weren't the usual design you might recognise from business class tickets on longer haul trips, on Air Baltic it means the one next to you remains free. 

It was a comfortable flight, and the food was good. For fare estimations, check out their website airbaltic.com.

Air Baltic dining in business class
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Note: This is a sponsored post in collaboration with the Riga and Latvian Tourism Boards. All views remain my own, as always.

Related posts
LATVIA: 4 places to eat during Riga Restaurant Week

FINLAND | 8 ways to summer like the Finns in the Turku Archipelago

my tree hut dwelling at The Forest Village in Storfinnhova Gård, Finland
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A question I get asked a lot is, "What's been your favourite trip this year?". Over the past few months, I've been fortunate enough to pop over to Sri Lanka, China, Florida, Sydney, and Canada, to name a few. But my answer has remained the same since I visited the Turku Archipelago in the height of summer in June: Finland.

The usual response, "Really? I've never even considered Finland for a summer holiday." Which is understandable. And that's why I'm here. Because listen up people, it's the stuff of dreams.

If, like me, you love nature, being outdoors, great weather, fantastic people, foraging, forests, holidaying with friends, great food, few crowds, and beautiful scenery, then you need to make visiting Finland in the summer a high priority.

Apart from all of that (I'd be sold already), it's got a heap of other stuff going for it too. It has a very low crime rate, almost everyone can speak English (I guess because no one else speaks Finnish), and I noticed there are a lot of parallels with my favourite country I've ever visited: Japan.

There's that low crime rate thing. Plus their affinity with nature and water. Also, their reservedness, except when naked in a sauna or onsen (communal bath in Japan) - something about breaking down all barriers and not being able to hide anything. A lot of business in Finland is settled in a sauna, and the same goes for an onsen in Japan (here's a post I wrote on onsen etiquette and how to do communal bathing in Japan). And one of the favourite pastimes of Finns is karaoke, which originated in Japan.

As I was creating this post, I noticed all my images have either a green or blue tone. Reflecting the blue skies, blue water, and green forests. That basically sums up my ideal holiday destination for me. I'd love to know what you think after reading the rest of this post - feel free to leave a comment!

1) Get on your bike

Finns like to be outdoors in the summer in general, and that's very understandable, considering their great weather, very long daylight hours, and the fact 70% of the country is beautiful forest. Not jealous, not jealous at all... Exploring the countryside on two wheels is a favourite way to do this.

summer cycling in Kimitoon, Finland
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The Kimito Islands can be found in the midst of the world's largest archipelago, in the Archipelago Sea, with a mind boggling 50,000 islands, skerries and rocks. This collective shrapnel makes up part of southwest Finland.

The region has a scenic 100km-long coastal cycling route, which takes you from the city of Salo on the mainland, all the way to the beautiful islands of Rosala, Hitis, Högsåra, Örö and Kasnäs. Think small country roads, forest paths, national parks, lakes, beaches, villages, campsites, and idyllic scenery.

What I thought would be a leisurely cruise, turned out to be a hilly 11km power-cycle in some very warm sunshine - I should have realised what was coming when I was given a mountain bike. But it was stunning. You could smell the pine forests before you could see them, and swathes of lupins carpeted the grassy banks.

visitkimitoon.fi/en

 
2) Lunch in a Finnish country garden

Embrace the Finns' affinity with nature by lunching amongst the flora and fauna of a Finnish country garden. You'll find The Westers Garden on the beautiful Kimito Island in the Turku Archipelago - the largest coastal island in Finland. 

Its roots lie in the old kitchen plots of the farmers and seafarers, and today the garden is under complete ecological cultivation. Flowers, herbs, and vegetables grow side by side in blissful harmony, you can buy herbs to take home and plant up, or fill your basket with a colourful harvest.

An old atmospheric cow shed is where you'll find the café, serving the likes of homemade pastries, fish soup, salad from the garden, and delightfully dense Finnish bread. It's a beautiful bucolic spot to unwind, recharge the batteries, and get a little closer to nature.

westers.fi/en/

lunch in the idyllic surroundings of The Westers Garden, Kimito Island
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3) Sleep in a tree house in the forest

This was very special. 

We spent a night in a basic wooden hut on stilts in the middle of a Finnish forest. There was no electricity, and no flush toilets. But they did have a smoke granite sauna, a cold creek to dunk in after, and a Knight's Hall for grand feasting. That's how the Finnish prioritise, and I approve. 

The Forest Village in Storfinnhova Gård, Finland
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The 10pm light was something else, with a sun that was very low, but not yet ready to set. Fern and moss blanketed the floor, dappled rays back-lit the softly swaying leaves, and flitting moths were emerging for dusk. There were just the sounds of the forest against a backdrop of silence. It felt like a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Entirely magical.

The Forest Village can be found in Storfinnhova Gård, on Kemiö Island, around 900 metres from the main estate. It's intended as a place where "adults can reconnect and experience their creative inner child in an atmosphere of immediate joy". If that doesn't sell it, nothing will.

storfinnhova.com/english/forrest

4) Dine in a lighthouse

The archipelago's dizzying number of islands means lighthouses are an integral part of the landscape. Twenty-five kilometers southwest of Hanko, at the entrance of the Gulf of Finland, you'll find the country's southernmost inhabitable place, and Scandinavia's tallest lighthouse. Towering 52 meters above the sea, Bengtskär is the region's most imposing and impressive monument.

What's particularly cool is you can not only dine here, but also stay the night. We didn't do the latter, but I can vouch that the former was a tasty experience. A choppy boat ride got us out to the lighthouse for dinner; it was WINDY. It was windy on land too, the bracing elements of the Baltic Sea blasting away the cobwebs, whilst clambering over rocks to observe the ground-nesting Eider ducks that call the island home, being careful not to disturb them or their eggs.

Be sure to climb to the top of the tower for spectabular views, all 256 steps. You'll have worked up an appetite by the time you come back down; expect a fortifying and traditional lighthouse dinner of potatoes, beef, salmon, fried seabass, mushroom sauce, and more of that great bread. 

bengtskar.fi

Bengtskär Lighthouse, Turku Archipalego
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5) Sauna, lake, sauna, lake

It's no secret the Scandinavians (Denmark, Sweden, Norway) enjoy a sauna - it's an intrinsic part of their culture and how they socialise. It's no different in neighbouring Finland, where there is one sauna for every three people, and where you'll even find a sauna in the Burger King in Helsinki. Yep. Taking meat sweats to new heights.

Sure, I'd been in a sauna before. In a gym, or a hotel, or something equally uninspiring. But I'd never had the full on, traditional Finnish / Scandi experience. Which is somewhere in the middle of a forest, with great company, intercepted with beer and awesome food, and dunking into an almost freezing lake after. And let me tell you, I LOVED IT.

Our last evening in Finland, staying at Kirjakkala Iron Mills Village, went something like this: sauna - jump in lake - eat great food - sauna - jump in lake - drink beer - repeat until midnight. I got it. I so got it. 

Also, no one told me that submerging into really cold water after roasting in a sauna was a natural high. Something to do with dilating and constricting blood vessels, the amount of oxygen to the brain etc. I mean, I might have got a bit addicted. I could have kept going for days...

You sneaky Scandis / Finns. Now it all makes sense! Where do I sign up?

ruukkikyla.fi/eng

sauna, lake, repeat, at Kirjakkala Iron Mills Village, Turku Archipalego
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6) Marvel at the (almost) midnight sun

Where we were in southwest Finland wasn't quite north enough to experience the actual midnight sun - I believe you need to be in the Arctic Circle for that. It was also a week or so before the summer solstice. But it was close, and equally disorientating.

We came out of a restaurant in Helsinki after our evening meal, emerging from several courses and too much wine, only to step out into broad daylight at about 9.30pm - 10pm. 

My brain was already squiffy with booze and lack of sleep. For a moment, I thought perhaps I'd been in there all night, and this was in fact sunrise the next day. Anyway, you get used to it pretty quickly. And midnight dusk never gets boring.

Högsåra Island around midnight in mid-June, Finland
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7) Get in and on the water

Water, water everywhere. Quite literally. After 70% of the country being forest, an impressive 10% is water. Finland has a staggering 187,000 lakes within its borders (and I'll bet each has at least one sauna on its banks), which explains why it also goes by the name of "The Land of a Thousand Lakes". Not forgetting the Finnish waters between its bazillions of islands.

Wherever you are in the country, you're going to be near water, so it makes sense to get in it, or on it. Be that a little boat with a skipper to ferry you around island hopping, taking a leisurely row on a lake (we did below in Teijo National Park), or skinny dipping after sweating it out in a sauna.

Connecting with the water is key to Finnish life - embrace it. And that's coming from someone who can't even swim.

nationalparks.fi/teijo

island hopping, and rowing in Teijo National Park, Finland
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8) Eat a lot of cake

You may well have heard of fika, the name given to the Swedish institution of taking a break to socially interact with friends, family or colleagues over coffee - a pastime that's taken very seriously (here's a post on my time in Stockholm, including more about fika).

Whilst the Swedes do drink a lot of coffee, it's actually the Finns that come out on top as the highest consumers of coffee per capita in the world. They routinely stop for several cups a day. And where there is coffee in Finland, there is also cake. Lots of excellent cake.

It was too difficult a task to say no to a slice every time we stopped for coffee. So much so, that I eventually gave in and ate cake like I was on commission. Plus, the Finns sure know how to bake.

My favourite cake stops from the trip were from Ada Tammi, the young and talented student behind the café Ada Bakes, in her family's Mathildedal Iron Works Village in the Teijo area. You can follow Ada on Instagram - she's one to watch.

A special mention must also go to the entirely idyllic Farmors Café on the island of Högsåra. We stayed the night at Villa Cecilia, run by the same owners as the café, and just a stone's throw away. We dined there twice, for both lunch and breakfast, and alongside the terrific baked goods, the rest of the food was actually quite exceptional. One of my favourite dining spots from the trip.

mathildedal.fi/index.php/en
farmorscafe.fi/en

eating all of the Finnish cake. And when you're tired of cake, there's always ice cream
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I feel like Finland is a country I made a real connection with, on some special, unchartered level. I am truly desperate to return.

Disclaimer

Note: This trip and the flights were hosted by Finnair and the Visit Finland tourism board. Thank you to everyone involved for a wonderful experience. 

All views remain my own, as always.

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SWEDEN: Eating in Stockholm