TAIWAN: Review of Mandarin Oriental Taipei

In a nutshell 

Arguably Taipei's most prestigious address. Only a few months old but several years in the making, it's been created with the most exquisite level of detailing at every turn. It's a destination that celebrates craftsmanship, design, personality and superlative service. In short, staying here is a quite fabulous experience.

Where is it?

The hotel is located on Dunhua North Road, within walking distance from Taipei Arena. It's a 15 minute drive to Xinyi shopping and business district and Taipei 101, five minutes to Songshan International Airport and 40 minutes from Taoyuan International Airport.

It's also a six minutes walk to Taipei Arena MRT Station and seven minutes to Nanjing Fuxing MRT Station.

Style and character

Architecture, design and artistic flare are at the heart of this hotel - every turn has yet another stunning thing to look at. The place is so photogenic, I could spend a week just snapping the striking lighting fixtures alone, which the hotel has won awards for, incidentally.

A lot of this is thanks to leading international design consultant WATG, who turned westward for inspiration, a move in step with a city that has an affinity with European design.

The scheme is bold and borrows from classical European architecture, the frontage dominated by marble columns, cut stone, arches, pediments and stucco-dressed walls. Elsewhere, there's an open-air courtyard, formal landscaping, garden terraces and water fountains – reminiscent of grand Italian and French residences – and they all serve to ramp up the romance of the place. Which it has, in spades. 

Then there's London-based interior design agency Four IV to thank too, renowned for its work in the luxury retail sector - they're responsible for many of the public areas. They picked up on the European theme of the exteriors, but added a contemporary spin, and they've done it very well. The intention is for guests to feel as though they're walking into a French château, but they've also injected modernity through their choice of materials.

The interiors sing with embellishment. There are French flourishes everywhere - panelling, chandeliers, metalwork, etched mirrors, alabaster reception desks, bespoke rugs, striking lounge furniture and curiosity cases filled with old artefacts.

In the guest rooms, British designer Helen Amy Murray's hand-sculpted leather panels are displayed as opulent headboards for beds swathed in 480-thread-count linens. There are walk-in wardrobes with dressing tables, fully loaded technology and stationery kits, grey-toned marble bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and Diptyque products, and lofty ceilings heavy with chandeliers.

The rooms help emphasise the residential ambience of the whole property, so instead of a traditional desk there are marble-topped tables engraved with a chequerboard pattern, for example. 

In summary, every corner of this building is utterly exquisite, both inside and out.

What's unique?

All rooms have a hidden valet box, accessible from the corridor by housekeeping who have the keys to open them, and by guests from a door to the side of the room entrance in the hallway. 

This means you can receive clean laundry, your morning paper, room service, and anything else you might want sent to your room without having to see anyone. Handy if you're having a day where you look like hell.

The Oriental Club is an exclusive part of the 6th floor, available to those staying on the Club floor. It includes perks such as pressing of garments and use of boardrooms. But what's particularly good are the quality hors d'oeuvres available all day, and the help-yourself bar in the evenings. You can fill your boots on dim sim, breads, pastries, cheese, exquisite little desserts, savoury snacks, and more. And we did. 

The hotel also has one of the largest spas in the country, spread over two floors, and the Mandarin Cake Shop with pralines and chocolates created by the World Chocolate Master Frank Haasnoot.

Who goes?

Quite a few Taipei residents were seen using the restaurants, likely not actually staying at the hotel but paying a visit to enjoy the dining experience and gorgeous surroundings.

To be honest, I don't recall seeing that many guests during my short time there. Which just goes to show how good they are at discretion

Breakfast

This is held in the restaurant Café Un Deux Trois, taking the culture of a French brasserie and immersing it in the Taiwanese way of life. 

I absolutely loved the space - a seamless coming together of understated materials, fabrics and finishes, with fantastic use of mirrors. At breakfast, there were noticably not that many people considering the size of the hotel - perhaps they all order it to their room. 

As you might expect, the Mandarin Oriental Taipei does not do gratuitous spreads covering every breakfast item imaginable - they're far more refined than that.

Instead, there is an elegant and impeccable offering of select classic French breakfast items: pastries, baguette, fruit, paté, muesli, smoked salmon, berries, cheese, charcuterie. There's also a glossy menu card with a choice of both Asian and French cooked dishes made fresh to order.

Next to the restaurant there's an outlet of high-end perfumery Fueguia 1833 should you wish to splash out an exclusive scent after your meal.

Dining

As with two of the hotel's other signature restaurants, Bencotto was designed by consummate lifestyle visionary Tony Chi. Born in Taiwan, Chi moved to America as a boy, and it was in New York that he founded his own design studio in 1984. 

The restaurant is overseen by Michelin-starred chef Mario Cittadini. Based on a country house with an open kitchen at its heart, it specialises in home-cooked Italian recipes. 

The head chef is himself from Tuscany, spent four years working in Beijing and has been at Bencotto since 2013. He told me that where other Italian restaurants in the city adapt to local taste, here they stay true to the cooking.

There was a treccia campana di bufala, show-stopping in it's gargantuan flaccid presence. Exclusively produced for Bencotto and flown in from Naples with table-side carving, the platter is trussed up with anchovies, sun-dried tomatoes, dried oregano, basil leaves, and the like. I had to ask the waiter to stop carving for fear he'd give me the whole trolleys worth and that I'd eat it all.

There was slow-cooked char grilled octopus with potatoes, lemon, golden beets and dill, and a voluptuous nduja, bell pepper coulis, seared spanner crab and marjoram risotto. The parmigiana di melanzane was spot on - not too cheesey as is so often the fate of this dish.

My favourite though (after all that godamn fantastic campana di bufala), were the gorgeous little al dente tortellini stuffed with braised pork and beef, sitting in a chicken consomme. A great example of Asian and Italian fusion without confusion, the firm little dumplings full of meaty cheesy flavours. Fantastic.

There was a great looking dessert like something from the illustrations of a fairytale book, a garden scene of pistachio soil, meringue, panna cotta toadstool stems, chocolate caps, freeze dried raspberries. Lots of prettiness and textures.

And of course, tiramisu. A little runny for my preference, but with good flavours and the crackles of popping candy, which I'm still not bored of.

There's a lot of energy in this restaurant and genuine warmth from the staff. There's no tablecloths, no stuffiness, just solid cooking without pretension.

Service

Staff are extremely courteous and polite, calling lifts, opening doors, always with a smile - it's an area I can find no fault in.

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. I liked pretty much everything, and a lot. But I think the interior design tops it - I was so impressed with every placement of every single furnishing, painting, door knob, light fitting, and the rest.

Oh, and that 1400 kg lobby chandelier, made from 50,000 pieces of Murano glass - swoon.

Also that when you log onto their wifi, the first page is a full media library of daily international newspapers and magazines to download.

Liked less. Checking out - please can I live here?

Price point

Prices from around £390 a night for a Deluxe King to £780 for a City Suite.

Contact

158 Dunhua North Road Taipei 10548
+886 2 2715 6888
www.mandarinoriental.com/taipei/
@MO_Hotels

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel.

TAIWAN: Review of The Okura Prestige Taipei

In a nutshell 

A five star luxury property with 208 deluxe guest rooms of seven different types, that marries its deeply rooted sense of Japanese refinement with Western functionality. 

Where is it?

The hotel is downtown in the Zhongshan business area, the centre of the entertainment and finance industries. It's a 15 minute drive to Taipei SongShan International Airport, 45 minutes to Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport and a three minute walk to MRT Zhong Shan station (Danshui Line). 

The Jou Doori Commercial district served as an exclusive residential area for Japanese officers and Taiwan nobilities during the Japanese occupation period. In the late 1960’s, under the Republic of China, the frequent interaction between Taiwan and Japan attracted many Japanese restaurants and businesses to establish their headquarters here, which later developed into what is today called the Jou Doori Commercial district. 
S
Style and character

The room had sliding partition walls sectioning off the bathroom and the bedroom from the hallway - the first time I'd seen those (but have seen them since) - to personalise and maximise space. The wardrobe was big enough to wheel a suitcase in - almost walk-in, I'd say. Some have a private balcony with unobstructed views of the skyline and bustling streets below.

The room decor was dominated by feminine hues and soft lighting, and each is equipped with a large bath tub with a 21 inch TV, an independent shower room, a Nespresso machine (alas, without George Clooney), and a whizz-bang Japanese-style multi-functional toilet, and they're always fun.

The pavement directly in front of the building acts as a driveway, so cars picking up or dropping off guests can fully mount it and stop directly in front of the doors. Handy for anyone that might want to slip in and out without being noticed.

What's unique?

This hotel had the biggest bed I've ever slept in; it took five rolls to get from one side to the other. It was hard to stop swimming in it and leave, let me tell you.

There is also a hidden reception for check-in to provide the utmost discretion for guests - you only see it after turning a corner once you enter the lobby.

Who goes?

I think a lot of businessmen use this hotel, but it doesn't feel like a business hotel, in that it is both homely and bustling - I tend to associate them with being dull and lonely places. 

There were certainly lots of suits walking around, but there were also tourists. I was told 60% of their guests are Japanese. This will partly be down to the chain being from Japan, operating 15 hotels over there and seven elsewhere; the flagship Okura property can be found in Tokyo. 

Whoever the guests were, everyone seemed to be rather pleased with the place.

Breakfast

An event to look forward to - get there early and savour it for a while. It's held in The Continental Room and the offering reflects the international clientèle, including western dishes, Japanese, and continental. 

There were the likes of: Japanese stews, grilled mackeral, pork with potato, potato gratin, congee, an egg station, roasted ham, fried dough sticks, natto, seaweed, miso, a range of salads including Waldorf and burdock root, waffles, and interesting jams to spread on your toast such as banana and caramal, and pineapple and pink peppercorn.

This restaurant also offers all-you-can-eat buffets at lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, and while this dining format isn't that popular in the UK, it's hot in Taipei, and the tables here are highly sought after.

Service

When the doormen hail you a taxi, they note down it's registration on a card and hand it to you, so should you leave anything in it, you'll be able to track it down easily. Clever.

A little gift of nougat in your room on arrival is a nice touch. Tasty too, and available to buy in larger quantities in the on-site shop.

Staff are extremely courteous and polite, calling lifts, opening doors, always with a smile - the experience of staying there as a whole is top draw.

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. I liked pretty much everything, and a lot. But I think that glorious gargantuan bed tops it.

Liked less. I spotted no dumplings at breakfast, which was a little upsetting. Just as well the rest of it was great then.

Price point

Prices from around £180 a night for a Prestige Room to £480 for a Junior Suite, including breakfast.

Contact

9 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei
+(886 2) 2523 1111
Website

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel.

Related posts

Week 6: TAIWAN - Taipei
TAIWAN: Regent Taipei, TaipeiTAIWAN: Mandarin Oriental, Taipei

TAIWAN: Review of Regent Taipei

In a nutshell 

A multi-award winning five star luxury property with 60 luxurious suites and over 470 deluxe guest rooms – some of the most spacious amongst the high-end hotels in Taipei. 

Where is it?

Situated in the Zhong Shan district, it's minutes away from key attractions and shopping destinations and close to the central business district. They offer a wide array of transport and connection options via road (the BMW transfer was particularly enjoyable), rail and air. 

It's easily accessible via the Taipei main railway station and is near Zhong Shan MRT station Exit 3 (MRT Danshui line), which is a five minute walk away. Chang Kai Shek International Airport is 45 minutes by road. 


Style and character

When we first entered the hotel, before being whisked off upstairs for an in-room check-in, we thought the area straight ahead, beyond the lobby, was a shopping mall (main picture). It's sprawling and bustling, and we only later realised it's in fact a continuation of the hotel, namely housing the seven drinking and dining options. 

An attached mall though, there still is. The Regent Galleria can be found in the hotel's basement, also accessible from the street. Think luxury brands, jewellery shops sparkling with diamonds, and deep pockets. Perfect for the high-flying business man who might want to buy his wife a gift before heading home.

The Tai Pan rooms are exclusively and discreetly located on the upper two floors of the hotel. Effortlessly slick and quite masculine in their design, they have dark wood, muted hues, and are so very well done. It was right up my street - I particularly liked the wardrobe's clean lines and slatted form. From certain angles the bed looked as though it were floating, and the desk had one of those very high-end Herman Miller chairs. 

It's one of the few hotels I've come across that have fluffy slippers, as opposed to those lacklustre flat ones; it's little touches like these that help guests feel as though they could very well be at home

In the bathroom there was lots of marble, a TV, one of those whizz bang Japanese-style toilets with seventy-five functions, and Dipthyque toiletries, both his and hers. 

The rooms on this floor come with perks such as 20% off laundry, the complimentary pressing of one set of business attire, luggage packing and un-packing, personalised wake-up call with a morning drink delivered in bed, and probably the best bit, access to the Tai Pan lounge (more on that under 'what's unique').

You can tell a lot of thought has been put into tailoring these rooms for the 'Tai-pan', a word used to refer to senior business executives or entrepreneurs. The focus is on comfort, quality and understated elegance, and it doesn't go unnoticed.

What's unique?

Regent Taipei is the only hotel in Taiwan to house in excess of 50 of the world’s luxury designer boutiques in its Regent Galleria shopping mall. It probably ends at window shopping for us mere mortals.

The 24hr Tai Pan lounge, accessible for those staying on the Tai Pan Club Floor, is kitted out for its target market.

Designed to reflect the pace and sophistication of Taiwan’s thriving business sector, the lounge has state-of-the-art business facilities with magnificent views of the city’s well-tended parks and gardens. There are workstations, meeting rooms, wireless internet access, multimedia conference capabilities, commercial secretarial services, and a very well stocked library from magazines to cook books. 

But what's particularly good are the quality hors d'oeuvres available all day, and the help-yourself bar open in the evenings. You can fill your boots on dim sim, breads, pastries, cheese, exquisite little desserts, savoury snacks, and more. And we did. 

Who goes?

I think a lot of businessmen use this hotel, but it doesn't feel like a business hotel, in that it is both homely and bustling - I tend to associate them with being dull and lonely places. 

There were certainly lots of suits walking around, having meetings in various public spaces, but there were also tourists, many of them Japanese. Whoever the guests were, everyone seemed to be rather pleased with the place.

Breakfast

An event to look forward to - get there early and savour it for a while. It's held in the Brasserie, and it's a big operation. Towards the back of the restaurant the walls are floor to ceiling glass, flooding the space with light and surrounded by the greenery of the grounds. It's a lovely place to enjoy your first meal of the day - ask to be seated in this area.

The offering reflects the international clientele, including western dishes, Japanese, and continental. 

The local cuisine is great and a lot of it is made to order, including dan dan noodles, Taiwanese nigiri (really good), turnip cake, fried dough sticks. There's a whole load of glorious steamed veg like sweet potato, corn, pumpkin and yams, fish dumpling soup, pork gyoza, scallion pie, pork dumplings, peanut and rice milk (loved this), sesame pocket bread with Chinese croissants, congee, and more. 

There's an abundance of freshly chopped and exotic fruits, every type of pastry you could desire, and freshly baked loaves.

This restaurant also offers all-you-can-eat buffets at lunch and dinner, and while this dining format isn't that popular in the UK, it's hot in Taipei, and the tables at Brasserie are some of the most sought after in town.

Service

Little cards are provided in the room with popular destinations written on them in Mandarin as well as English, so you can point at where you want to go to a taxi driver and not have to worry about communication problems.

Staff are extremely courteous and polite, calling lifts, opening doors, always with a smile. There's a fleet of pretty impressive stretched Mercs available for airport transfers and the experience of staying there as a whole is top draw.

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. I liked pretty much everything, and a lot. But I think the perk of the Tai Pan lounge, with all that reading material, complimentary food and drink, and exclusivity, tops it.

Liked less. If I really had to pick something - and it's hard - it would probably be the exterior of the building, which is nothing spectacular and doesn't reflect the grandeur that lies within. But that's really being picky.

Price point

Prices from around £170 a night for a Superior Double room to £400 for a Junior Suite.

Contact

No 3, Lane 39, Section 2, ZhongShan N, Rd. Taipei 104
+(886 2) 2523 8000 
www.regenttaipei.com

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel.

Related posts

Week 6: TAIWAN - Taipei
TAIWAN: Mandarin Oriental, Taipei
TAIWAN: The Okura Prestige, Taipei