Showing posts with label Penang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Penang. Show all posts

Tuesday 29 March 2016

MALAYSIA: Review of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, Penang

the infinity pool with a view of the Andaman Sea at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia
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In a nutshell 


For well over a century, this hotel has been regarded as one of the Far East’s most prestigious and historic, known simply as `The E&O' to generations of travellers, standing as a testament to the grand elegance of the British colonial era.


Where is it?


You'll find it in George Town in Penang - declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 - at the intersection of Farquhar Street and Penang Road. The Eastern & Oriental Hotel is 20km from Penang International Airport, and a leisurely saunter from all the eateries and entertainment outlets of downtown George Town.

Studio Suite in the Victory Annexe at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia

grounds at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia
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Style and character


The Eastern & Oriental Hotel is split into two main sections. Making up its historical heart is The Heritage Wing, built in 1885. It's heavy with storied old-world charm, Moorish minarets and a soaring echo-dome lobby. Doormen are clad in khaki and pith-helmeted bellhops, ready to welcome guests to its 100 plush suites. 

Then in 2013, the Victory Annexe opened its doors to patrons, playing host to the other, modern-classic half of the hotel. The addition boasts 119 Studio Suites (pictured, and what I stayed in) and ten Corner Suites. The sophisticated and graceful elegance of the interiors very cleverly manage to retain the essence of the hotel's rich heritage and identity, whilst offering the state-of-the-art conveniences a business traveller would expect. The Studio Suites have balconies with cornered sliding doors that when fully open, bring the whole of the outside, in. It feels like a villa on the beach.

I visited the hotel's infinity pool as the sun was calling it a day, the light playing with the surface of the water so well, it was difficult to determine where the pool ended and where the Andaman Sea began. Such a pleasure to photograph.

What's unique?


In its long and colourful history, the Eastern & Oriental Hotel has seen two World Wars, the wane of the British Empire, as well as the birth of Malaysia. And there aren't many properties that can claim that.

grounds at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia

Who goes?


The Eastern & Oriental Hotel has welcomed the glitterati of the literary and entertainment worlds, including Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham and Hermann Hesse. 

Rudyard Kipling would always request the same room in the hotel on his frequent visits, and that room has since been named the Rudyard Kipling room. You can request to stay in it if you want; and how cool would that be. I wonder if he did any writing there..

I also recall watching esteemed British chef Rick Stein stay during his TV series Rick Stein's Far Eastern Odyssey (excellent, by the way), particularly revelling at the local dishes on offer at breakfast. Watching that episode made me realise I had to stay in this hotel.

In terms of guests without fame, most of the clientèle are from Australia, America, the UK, Japan, and a quickly growing Korean market. I was told the Japanese like to stay in The Heritage Wing as they prefer the smell of old wood to new, apparently.

Breakfast


Served in the bright and airy all-day dining restaurant Sarkies - one of the six drink and dining options available within the property - and recognising their diverse client base, breakfast at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel is an international offering.

Expect the likes of sushi, pastrami, sliced turkey ham, cereals, French cheeses and crackers, salad, breads and pastries. There's bread and butter pudding, oats, miso, baked beans, hash browns, chicken sausage, tomatoes.

There's also roti canai, dhal curry, an egg station making them to order, noodles, congee with all the toppings including century egg. There was a fantastic coconut Indian crepe with crisp edges and a soft spongy middle, and a whole lot more.

The atmosphere was very relaxed - not at all hectic as is so often the case at breakfast in hotels - with the space being about half full at 9.30am.

breakfast at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia


Service


All the staff members were wonderful, and service was of the highest order, as you would expect from such an esteemed hotel name.


Liked lots / liked less


Liked lots - The balcony of our Studio Suite did it for me. It's not easy to make a room in Asia feel cool and airy with the doors open to the outside, and the AC turned off. But this place manages it. Also, the roll top bath and all that marble was glorious.

Liked less - Struggling to think of something to be honest.

grounds at The Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia


Price point


Prices from £115 for a Studio Suite to £210 for the Writer's Suite, including breakfast.

Contact


10 Farquhar Street, Georgetown, 10200 George Town, Malaysia
+60 4 888 8888
www.eohotels.com

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel as part of a media package. All views remain my own.

Related links

Thursday 24 March 2016

MALAYSIA: Review of the Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang

dreamy grounds at Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang


In a nutshell 


A luxury beachfront property set in a sprawling 30 acres of lush gardens and framed by very majestic, century-old rain trees.

Where is it?


Set at the end of Batu Ferringhi beach, the Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa is a 20 minute drive from George Town (the part of Penang most visitors head to) and 45 minutes from Penang International Airport.

Getting a taxi from the airport to the hotel costs about USD $20.

our bedroom at Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang



Style and character


The most striking thing about the Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa is the verdant and quite gorgeous gardens it's set in, boasting an impressive 133,000 varieties of plants, trees, and shrubs. It's basically its own little jungle, and one of the hotel activities available is in fact a 'jungle walk', to learn more about this flora and fauna. The grounds itself is dotted with sun loungers and hammocks facing out to sea, with a backgrop of mist-covered hills behind.

The building architecture is distinctive Minangkabau (an ethnic group indigenous to the Minangkabau Highlands of West Sumatra in Indonesia), and there are endless artefacts of Malaysian culture within, such as artfully arranged traditional jewellery, batik-printing moulds, and coral sculptures. 

One of the two pools is for exclusive use of Rasa Wing guests over 16 years old, and there's the beautifully secluded CHI, The Spa with its eleven private spa villas and a yoga pavilion, plus a nine-hole pitch and putt golf course.

What's unique?


The Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa has adopted Penang Shan Children’s Home Association as its EMBRACE beneficiary. It's a welfare organisation that accepts children from troubled families, which mainly only have a single-parent with financial or physical challenges.

Also, the CHI spa is the largest and most luxuriously kitted out in Penang. Fancy.

leafy grounds at Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang

Who goes?


Some of the world’s most recognisable names have holidayed at the Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, including celebrity author Barbara Cartland and the former King of Cambodia. We were also told an elderly German lady has spent seven months there every year, since the 1970's. How's that for a regular customer.

They had the red carpet out during out stay (not for us, alas), for the son of the Sultan of Brunei. The Sultan himself was staying at The E&O hotel. There's also a hut in the ground with old pictures of guests from days gone by, including Tony Blair and his whole brood.

Expect to see a lot of families and kids by the pool (it's great the Rasa Wing pool is for adults only) - I suspect many people don't leave much once they're in, hence the infrequent shittle bus service (see below).

Breakfast


This is the first hotel I've come across that put vacant / occupied signs on the tables at breakfast. Which makes total sense - why doesn't everyone do that?! They also list everything that's available at the buffet, on your table. Which saves from wondering around aimlessly, trying to make a decision on where to start first.

An a la carte option is available too, and it's all included. Expected the likes of an egg station cooking them however you want, a juice bar, lots of lovely Asian fruit, cold cuts and a salad bar, as well as the full bread and pastry works. 

Then there are things like sautéed mushrooms, baked beans, beef bacon (don't expect much pork in Malaysia), wok-fried vegetables, steamed and fried dim sum, congee, steamed rice, miso, pan-fried fish, nasi lemak, and rotis.

There's also a 'local' section which is great for those in this part of the world for the food: Penang Hokkien prawn noodle soup, chicken murtabak, roti canai, uttapam, dalca, aloo gohbi. Be sure to try some of those.

breakfast at Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang



Service


Rasa Sayang takes its name from an old Malay folk song that means ‘a feeling of love’, which is pretty much what you experience staying there. I received a very warm welcome from Veronica, even if check-in was a little congested. Staff in general are exceedingly friendly, striking up conversation whilst you wait for your food at breakfast, and entirely approachable.


A shuttle bus is available to take guests into George Town, although it only leaves every two hours and the last bus isn't quite late enough.

I also noticed a lot of 'we value your voice, please share your experience with us' with a QR barcode to make it simple. A hotel so eager to get your feedback is always a good sign.

Liked lots / liked less


Grounds, grounds, grounds. I wish I'd had longer to kick back and enjoy the lush surroundings, but I spent much of my time there eating my way through George Town. Understandable.

The wifi was intermittent and quite slow when it did work. We were told the sports bar wasn't showing a big international boxing match, only to find out it did in the end. So my partner missed that, which he really wanted to watch. But no biggie.

Price point


Prices from £160 for a deluxe double with garden view to £270 for a Rasa premier double room, including breakfast.

Contact


Batu Feringgi Beach, Penang, 11100
+60 4 888 8888
Website
@ShangriLaHotels

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel as part of a media package. All views remain my own.


Related links

Sunday 10 May 2015

Week 20: MALAYSIA - Penang → Borneo

Image of the week: orang-utan
at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Nature Reserve, Sabah, Borneo
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Where in the world

A one hour 45 minute flight from Bangkok to Penang in Malaysia, where we stayed for four nights.

Then a two hour flight east to the Malaysian part of the island of Borneo, specifically the area of Kota Kinabalu, where we stayed for four nights.  



Thoughts

I didn't even realise Penang was a whole state in Malaysia rather than just a city - and an island at that - until we were coming down to land on it. Such is my shameful lack of research into the place, and the country as a whole before visiting.

(Actually, the island is only half of the state of Penang, the rest of which is on the mainland. But people who visit tend to stay on the island part).

All I knew about this stop was Malaysia is a Muslim country, and Penang has great food. I didn't really know what to expect from the former (I was hoping for some good eating from the latter), or what to expect from Malaysia full stop.

I certainly hadn't anticipated for it to be as developed as it is. It's closer to the order and solid infrastructure of Thailand, when I had prepared myself for something along the lines of the manageable chaos of Vietnam.

But the most prominent observation of all, and one you can't miss from the offset, is that it's full of different faces. And I absolutely love that.

fisherman fixing his net, Penang
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Look one way and I could have been in south India again: dark skin, bright cloth, tamil phrases. Our taxi from the airport passed a sprawling Indian celebration of some sort - I suspect a wedding - spilling out from the Indian Palace restaurant, right over the street and into the 24hr McDonald's forecourt. It was a see of sarees.

Look the other way and there are shop fronts covered in Chinese characters, that would be any other city's Chinatown. A whole host of languages are spoken, foods eaten, faiths followed, and cultures expressed.

I suspect it's probably quite like Mauritius, in that its colonised history, trading, and cultural exchanges between East and West has resulted in a melting pot of multiculturalism. 

Not that I would know, I've never actually been to the homeland.
 

a snapshot of Penang's street art
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And then there's Borneo. The third-largest island in the world and the largest island in Asia. 

Half of it is Indonesia, the other half of it is Malaysia, and it's also home to that funny little nugget of sovereign state governed by a sultan that is Brunei, which I always thought was somewhere in the Middle East.

Borneo was everything I had hoped it would be. A breathtaking example of our planet's ability to stop us dead in our tracks with its utter gorgeousness.

sunset in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Borneo
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The best things I ate this week

The cross-pollination of cultures and cuisines is an age old recipe for very good eating. And there are few better examples of this than in the tight knot of ethnic diversity that is Penang, where arguably some of southeast Asia's best hawker food (street food) can be found.

There's a lot of it to seek out, and this very handy Penang Food Trail PDF, written by the Penang Tourism Board, is a great resource to get you started. 

Here are some of the things we enjoyed:

Wan tan mee (wonton noodles, BBQ pork) 

A bumping Chulia Street in Georgetown lead us to some very good wan tan mee, egg noodles with wontons and BBQ pork. The wet version is in a broth, the dry sees the noodles and dumplings tossed in some dark soy. 

We got one of each, and added some pickled chillies. I've never waited as long as I did that night to give my order at a street food stall, it was that swamped. And I had to pick the busiest place, obviously.

Here are the husband and wife team that made our noodles.


Nasi kandar (rice and curries) 

This is a Penang dish from the Indian Muslim community. You select your curries from what's available that day, they're piled on top of rice, then splashes of various gravies are added. 

They'll be served alongside some veg, here cabbage fried with turmeric, but often long beans. I chose beef, chicken and mutton curries, and they were rocking. They also had squid curry and fish egg curry, which are equally popular. 

At Restoran Kapitan, 93 Lebuh Chulia, Georgetown, Penang

Roti canai (roti and dhal)

Another Penang staple from the Indian Muslim community. It's a type of Indian-influenced flatbread served with a little curry, often dhal, and available with either sweet or savoury toppings, like sardines, cheese, onions, bananas. 20p for one portion - we got a few.

Economy rice (buffet meal)

This picture was taken in the food court of one of the low cost housing areas in Penang, on the food tour covered below (see Street food must-eats). 

Economy rice is the name given for a collection of cooked foods, of which you can select as many different ones as you like, accompanied by steamed rice - a bit like an al fresco buffet. It's good value, has variety, and is a great opportunity for the community to socialise. 

top: wan tan mee (noodles, dumplings & BBQ pork), nasi kandar (curries and rice)
bottom: roti canai, economy rice
Penang dishes

Street food must-eats

Penang food tour
Junie from Food Tour Penang

Another week and another food tour of epic proportions. This time with the lovely Junie from Food Tour Penang which is part of Food Tour Malaysia, also found directing people towards the best things to eat Kuala Lumpur.

My tour happened to be private just because no one else was booked in that day, but whether there are two of you or more, you are driven around to the different stops (in a car or van). 

The AC between all of the eating is very welcome, and it means you visit different areas in one evening that would be too far to reach by foot.

Here's what Junie fed me with (there is a lot, skip lunch):

Chendul (shaved ice dessert) | Assam laksa (spicy noodle soup)

We kicked off with dessert, as the place to get it closes at 5.30 - it was a spot on way to start. Chendul is shaved ice (literally ice shaved from a big block) in coconut milk, rice noodles made green from pandan leaves, and kidney beans. Quite fantastic and inordinately refreshing. 

While I was half way through that, an assam laksa turned up. Thick round rice noodles hiding beneath a spicy, slightly sweet, dark brown/orange broth made tart by assam (sour tamarind) and thick with disintegrated fresh mackerel fillets. Also in it, cucumber, pineapple, red chillies, red onions, and black sweetened shrimp paste.

At Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul, 27 Lebuh Keng Kwee, Georgetown, Penang

Prawn fritters | Loh bak (fried sausage)

Junie then took us to a family run business at the Tan Jetty selling Nyonya (Chinese / Malay) prawn fritters and loh bak, which are pork marinated in Chinese five-spice powder, rolled up in bean curd skin, then fried. Moist and aromatic - strong snacking.

top: chendul (shaved ice dessert), frying prawn fritters, assam laksa noodle soup
bottom: sweet fritters, popiah (fresh spring rolls), ban chien kueh (peanut pancake)
Penang dishes
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Goreng pisang (banana fritters)

Again, around the Tan Jetty, there's a family run shop that only sells fried fritters - a favourite tea time treat in Malaysia - for a few hours each day in the afternoon. They do goreng pisang (banana fritters), and also the three layered fritters pictured above, with sweet potato, New Year cake (glutinous rice cooked with sugar), and yam.

Popiah (fresh spring rolls)

These are Hokkien (south Chinese) style fresh spring rolls. All sorts going on here - juicy turnip filling, sweetness from prawn and crab meat, Chinese lettuce, sweet sauce, spicy sambal, and the skin is a sort of thin crepe.

At the New Lane hawker centreLorong Baru, Georgetown

Ban chien kueh (peanut pancake)

crispy pancake made by layering the batter over a hot griddle and filling with roasted ground peanuts, sugar and sweet corn. Some customers also request an egg mixed in. It's a popular hawker food in Penang and sublime straight off the hot iron. 

top: Chinese sausage in a bun, Hokkien mee (spicy noodle soup)
bottom: char koay teow (fried noodles), dosa (Indian crepe)
Penang dishes
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Hokkien mee (spicy noodle soup) | Char koay teow (fried noodles)

Hokkien mee is a spicy soup of both egg and rice noodles in a stock made from prawn, dried shrimp, pork ribs or chicken. It's garnished with sliced boiled eggs, prawns, leafy veg, fried onions, and chilli paste.

Arguably Penang's most famous hawker food, and my favourite from the tour, char koay teow is a savoury umami dream. Flat rice noodles are stir-fried with shrimp, cockles, Chinese sausage, eggs, bean sprouts, and chives in a mix of soy sauce.

There's a great charred aroma from stir-frying the noodles over very high heat in a well-seasoned wok. And that char seems to be a common factor in the noodle dishes I like the most, also seen in Thailand's fried noodle dish, kuay teow kua gai (which I talk about in last week's post), which is just as stellar. 

At the New Lane hawker centreLorong Baru, Georgetown

Dosa (Indian crepe) Teh tarik (frothy Indian tea)

It was as if I were back in Madurai again; my first feel of south India since I left it in January. And it was good.

All Tamil staff, wonderful curries with the dosa, and a sweet and fortifying frothy tea, going supremely well with the spice.

Penang's hawker food scene is vast and encompasses a host of different cultures, cuisines, languages and locations. If you're there for a limited time, a food tour like this is an excellent way to get a taste of most of it, with someone who knows the landscape taking you to the best places. 

Junie isn't the only guide working at Food Tour Penang, but I can't recommend her highly enough. She had full and informative answers to every question I threw at her, and the 4.5 hours we spent together flew by.

Tours with Food Tour Penang are held in groups, include private transportation, last for around four hours, and cost RM160 (around £29) per person.

Note: This tour was kindly hosted by Food Tour Penang. All views are my own.

Did you know?

Penang is a superb example of different cultures and faiths getting along in close proximity just fine. Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling road in Georgetown, affectionately known as 'The Street of Harmony', demonstrates this well, bringing together the town's four religions.

Take a short walk down it and you'll come across an Anglican church, a Buddhist temple, a Hindu temple, and a mosque, all within a stone's throw of each other. Its this multi-cultural heritage expressed in the variety of religious buildings of different faiths that's part of the reason Penang obtained it's UNESCO status in 2008.

The peace and acceptance found amongst the people of this town is a strong message, and one the rest of the world could do with paying attention to.

street in Penang
My insider tips

People who visit Borneo often have orang-utans on the agenda. There are a whole load of reserves and rehabilitation centres you can choose to visit (this is quite a useful run down of the good and the bad), but as the article states, many exist to serve mass tourism rather than to rehabilitate the apes.

What I really liked about the orang-utan viewing at the Shangri-La (see Highlight below) is that it's only available twice a day for about half an hour, so the animals are not paraded to a constant stream of tourists.

When the viewings do take place, the groups are not large and are confined to stand on a single platform. Outside of those feeding times, the apes are free to live up in the trees of the 64 acre jungle reserve without anyone bothering them, just as they would in the wild.

Attending a feeding is available to those not staying at the hotel too. And I would say it's probably one of the least intrusive orang-utan experiences available on the island, from what I have read online.

orang-utan at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Nature Reserve, Sabah, Borneo

Highlight / Lowlight

Highlight.  

The whole time in Borneo felt like one extended highlight. I loved everything about it - the wildlife, the stunning scenery, the exoticness of it all.

And a lot of that was down to staying at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort (I'll get to writing more about this stay in a few weeks), their unrivalled location, and the host of activities and trips they have available.

There was a fantastic cruise along the Tambalang River and its narrow mangrove creeks at sunset, where we spotted long-tailed macaques, flying fish, a crocodile and an awesome view (see video below). 

We then took the firefly cruise straight after and visited the same waterways, this time in the pitch black. 

The skies were clear, with the dark shadows of the mangroves twinkling like hundreds of fairy lights, mimicking the constellations above. They were full of glowing fireflies, as if the stars had fallen from the sky and got caught in the trees.

I've never seen anything like it, like something out of a film. Magical is definitely the word.



If that wasn't awesome enough, the next morning we attended an orang-utan feeding. 

The Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort have secured part of the Borneo rainforest as a 64 acre nature reserve, established in collaboration with the State Wildlife Department, which backs onto the hotel. It's mission is to facilitate rehabilitation programmes for endangered species of faunas endemic to Sabah

In it, there is a huge array of wildlife, including a load of long-tailed macaques, and four juvenile orang-utans. These orang-utans live freely but are protected and looked after by the reserve, which includes feeding.

We stood in the near 100% humidity of the jungle absolutely drenched in sweat, the keeper calling out into the trees for a while, armed with a bin full of fresh fruit. After a few minutes, the high-up branches in the far distance started to rustle and sway, and from the tangle of dense treetop vegetation, this little guy emerged. 



He was swinging through the trees, from one arm to the other, like something out of The Jungle Book, then came right up close to check us out. One of his mates wasn't far behind. 

Sitting cross-legged on the floor as a kid watching David Attenborough documentaries, I would dream of witnessing orang-utans living freely in their natural habitat.

Therefore, this may have been my highlight of the past five months.

Now here are a couple more pictures of these cuties. Because there can never be too many snaps of baby orang-utans.

orang-utan at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Nature Reserve, Sabah, Borneo
orang-utan at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Nature Reserve, Sabah, Borneo


And then there was all the other stuff we did at the Shangri-La. Like I said, it was a good few days.

activities at Shangri-La Rasa Ria, Sabah
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Lowlight.

I asked Matt to hold my bottle of water while I was taking a picture, and in his attempt to check the map on his phone to see where we were headed, his sweaty hands fumbled and dropped it, and the screen smashed.

For someone who takes a lot of pride in never losing or damaging his possessions, he was very upset about it. So much so that he created a make-shift plaster to stick over the smashed corner, so he didn't have to look at it.

It still works. All is not lost.

Next week

After five months, we bid farewell to Asia. It's been pretty amazing. Next week we'll be crossing the equator for the first time, and saying hello to Melbourne in Australia.

Postcards

wan tan mee stall, Penang

colonial buildings, Penang
street corner, Penang
siesta, Penang
Penang
street food, Penang


great hornbill, Kota Kinabalu, Borneo


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Week 2: INDIA - Bangalore → Mysore → Wayanad
Week 3: INDIA - Kochi → Allepey → Kollam → Madurai
Week 4: INDIA - Pondicherry → Chennai → Mumbai

Week 5: INDIA - Varanasi → Udaipur → Jaipur → Delhi
Week 6: TAIWAN - Taipei
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Week 8: VIETNAM - Sapa → Hanoi → Ha Long Bay → Hanoi

Week 9: VIETNAM - Hue → Hoi An
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