AUSTRIA | A culinary tour of two cities: 19 things to eat in Salzburg and Graz

Salzburg at sundown from the Hohensalzburg Fortress
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Following on from my previous post, sharing my take on 10 less obvious things you should definitely do in Innsbruck, Salzburg and Graz, I'm now turning my attention to my favourite topic - food. 

I did a lot of good eating across all three cities, but the culinary offering in Salzburg and Graz in particular really stood out for me. Thanks to the suggestions of locals, guides, and my own research, I've come up with a selection of 19 things to eat across the cities of Salzburg and Graz, and where to find them. Come hungry.

1) Salzburg | Breakfast for high flyers

Where | Carpe Diem Lounge-Café in Red Bull's Hangar-7.

What to eat | Their epic breakfast spread.

In a nutshell | Served between 9am - 11.30am (and until 2pm on weekends and holidays), expect an array of local flavours on little plates, served on a three-tiered cake stand. There's a savoury menu, and a sweet menu - get one of each if there are two or more of you. Chances are you'll be defeated - expect a lot of food.

hangar-7.com/en
Hangar-7, Salzburg Airport Wilhelm-Spazier-Straße 7A, 5020 Salzburg

the breakfast spread at Carpe Diem Lounge-Café in Red Bull's Hangar-7, Salzburg
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2) Salzburg | Take your pick from the city's food markets

Where | A weekly one at Schranne, daily at Grünmarkt, and a weekly organic market at Kajetanerplatz.

What to eat | These are great places to buy local produce such as cheese, meat, vegetables, bread, flowers, fish.  

In a nutshell | Don't forget to eat in the market too. Make a beeline for the stalls selling typical Salzburg snacks, such as fish soup, deep fried chicken, sausages. And definitely buy some cake.

https://www.salzburg.info/en/dining-shopping/markets

scenes from Salzburg's various food markets
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3) Salzburg | A very delightful deli

Where | Feinkost Kölbl

What to eat | Come for the Venus breast cakes (minni di virgini in Italian; I've had these in Sicily), stay for everything else.

In a nutshell | A delicatessen only stocking the finest local produce, this place is a dreamy shopping experience for any food lover. Fill your boots on edible souvenirs for your loved ones too; you'll win big brownie points.

feinkost-koelbl.at
Feinkost Kölbl, Theatergasse 2, 5020 Salzburg

Feinkost Kölbl deli in Salzburg
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4) Salzburg | Cold-cut and cheese heaven, with giant pretzels

Where | Mayer Delikatessen permanent market stall

What to eat | This is the place to buy venison salami or ham. And cheese. And pretzels as big as your head. And their ready made sandwiches are terrific too.

In a nutshell | Right in the middle of the daily Grünmarkt market, visit these guys to buy a lot of tasty bits, find a sunny bench or head to a park, and enjoy a wonderful picnic.

delikatessen.cc
Universitätspl. 18, 5020 Salzburg

Mayer Delikatessen in Grünmarkt market, Salzburg
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5) Salzburg | Holier than thou tipples produced by monks

Where | Klosterladen St. Peter

What to eat | A type of very pure brandy, in many different flavours.

In a nutshell | This shop is part of the St. Peter monastery, selling products produced by monks from all over Austria. Walk past the overwhelmingly beautiful crucifixes and religious crafts, and head to the back room for the hard stuff. Those monks sure know how to spend their time well.

http://www.stift-stpeter.at/de/klosterladen/
Erzabtei St. Peter, St. Peter-Bezirk 1, 5010 Salzburg

the klosterladen (abbey shop) of St Peter, Salzburg
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6) Salzburg | World-famous chocolate named after one of the world's greatest composers

Where | Cafe Konditorei Fürst

What to eat | Salzburger Mozartkugel, made from marzipan and pistachio surrounded by nougat and dark chocolate.

In a nutshell | In 1884, Salzburg confectioner Paul Fürst opened a confectionery shop (still at the same site today), and in 1890, he created the original Salzburger Mozartkugel. Known worldwide, lots of places mass produce these little chocolates (even in Austria), but here they're still created by hand and with love. And they are very tasty indeed.

original-mozartkugel.com/index_e.php
Brodgasse 13, 5020 Salzburg

Salzburger Mozartkugel from Cafe Konditorei Fürst, Salzburg
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7) Salzburg | Hot dogs from the Balkans

Where | Balkan Grill Walter

What to eat | Bosna Grill, imported from the Balkan provinces.

In a nutshell | You'll find this little hatch in a covered alleyway, often trailing a queue representing the perfect cross-section of Salzburg society. They've been slinging Bosna Grills since 1950: a beef sausage served in a long bun, raw onions, chopped parsley, curry powder. Pungent and delicious. Enjoy with beer. Avoid on a first date. Closed on Sunday.

Website
Getreidegasse 33, 5020 Salzburg

Bosna Grill from Balkan Grill Walter, Salzburg
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8) Salzburg | Some of the best fried chicken in town

Where | Bärenwirt

What to eat | Backhendl (fried chicken).

In a nutshell | Fried chicken seems to be a thing in Austria, and these guys are on a mission to make the best in the country. The portion is huge, full of flavour, and it even includes nuggets of deep-fried chicken liver - be still my beating heart. They also have a lovely little al fresco terrace. I had a really wonderful solo dinner here, with neighbouring tables breaking into gentle German song at the end of their meal. The sign of a top evening.

baerenwirt-salzburg.at
Müllner Hauptstraße 8, 5020 Salzburg

the fried chicken from Bärenwirt, Salzburg
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9) Salzburg | Austrian konditori grandeur at its finest

Where | Café Tomaselli

What to eat | Cake and coffee.

In a nutshell | One of the most highly regarded coffee houses in Europe, Café Tomaselli has been there for over 300 years. The interiors are splendid: wood panelling, marble tops, silver trays, traditional newspaper stands, waiters in smoking jackets. In good weather find a spot outside and watch the city go by. It was also one of Mozart's favourite haunts. If it's good enough for Wolfgang...

tomaselli.at/en
Alter Markt 9, 5020 Salzburg

eating too much cake at Café Tomaselli, Salzburg
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10) Salzburg | A different kind of ice cream

Where | Eisl Eis

What to eat | Ice cream made from sheep's milk.

In a nutshell | This is Austria's first organic sheep's milk ice cream shop. The ice cream is particularly creamy, full-bodied, and they've got some cracking flavours. Expect the likes of blueberry with rosemary, grape seed, yoghurt with raspberry, and of course pumpkin seed. And the sheep producing the milk are just up the road. Tasty.

eisl-eis.at
Getreidegasse, 5020 Salzburg

sheep's milk ice cream from Eisl Eis, Salzburg
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11) Graz | Beautiful seasonal food in a sublime setting

Where | Landhauskeller

What to eat | Anything they're offering.

In a nutshell | Don't miss dining here when visiting Graz. An exquisite setting, sublime seasonal food, fabulous staff, and very reasonably priced. You'll find hand-chopped beef tartare with wild garlic mayo, pickled red onion and brioche toast; sheep cheese with beetroot, asparagus and pumpkin tomato chutney; the classic Styrian dish of prime boiled beef with roast potatoes, chive sauce and apple horseradish; and much more.

landhaus-keller.at
Schmiedgasse 9, 8010 Graz

a really fabulous dinner at Landhauskeller, Graz
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12) Graz | Fantastic hotel breakfast, and Sunday Soul brunch

Where | Speisesaal restaurant in Hotel Wiesler

What to eat | Buffet breakfast.

In a nutshell | Right on the banks of the River Mur, Hotel Wiesel is a gorgeous place to stay in its own right (evidence here). But the breakfast buffet is really worth checking out even if you're not, plus they have an a la carte menu to choose from too. Pictures much better than mine at the link below. Also, every Sunday they put on the Soul Brunch; a buffet brunch to the backdrop of local DJ's mixing up some soulful tunes.

http://speisesaal.at/en/breakfast/
Grieskai 4-8, 8020 Graz

breakfast at Speisesaal restaurant in Hotel Wiesler, Graz
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13) Graz | Tiny coffee shop with a big reputation

Where | Die Süße Luise

What to eat | Café food, and coffee.

In a nutshell | A very charming and miniature coffee shop in the farmer’s market on Lendplatz. It's really very small, in that the shop itself has the kitchen and one table, and the rest of the seating is outside. I'm not sure what happens when it's raining, but on a sunny Sunday morning, every spot was occupied with people lolling about enjoying the fine weather, and great food.

facebook.com/DieSusseLuise
Lendplatz Stand 9, 8020 Graz

Graz's smallest cofee shop, Die Süße Luise
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14) Graz | Mid-morning snack with a glass of local wine

Where | Bar Albert

What to eat | Local Elstar apples and pork on farmer's bread, with a glass of south Styrian chardonnay.

In a nutshell | A mid-morning snack in England might consist of tea and a biscuit. In Graz, it's local produce with a glass of wine. I know which I prefer. Head to this elegant wine bar in the historic old town for a quick bite to kick-start your lunch, and return in the evening to spend longer over their local wine list.

bar-albert.com/en/graz
Herrengasse 11, 8010 Graz

wine and snacks at Bar Albert, Graz

15) Graz | Sweet treats from an imperial bakery

Where | Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax

What to eat | Sissi-Busserl. Tiny macaroons the size of quail's eggs filled with apricot jam and decorated with a dribble of dark chocolate.

In a nutshell | I didn't actually get to eat these, as they were closed the only day I could visit (Sunday). But this is what you should be buying. Along with anything else that takes your fancy. 

The oldest surviving bakery in Graz, and one of the oldest in Austria, this place is as famous for its incredible facade as it is for its baked goods. Due to the quality of their products, the bakery received a title of the Imperial and Royal Warrant of Appointment in 1888. And to shout about it, they had this facade commissioned. There's no missing it.

hofbaeckerei.at/home.php
Hofgasse 6, 8010 Graz

the very impressive and imposing Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax shop front, Graz
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16) Graz | Terrific oil made from special pumpkins

Where | Wherever you spot it being sold

What to eat | Pumpkin seed oil.

In a nutshell | We have sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil - why have I never seen pumpkin seed oil? There is a special type of pumpkin that grows in Styria, producing seeds without shells. It's these seeds that are ground down to make the quintessentially Styrian food product that is pumpkin seed oil. It goes with pretty much everything - salads, cheese, drizzled over cooked meat and fish. Don't leave Graz without a bottle.

I love this stuff!

17) Graz |  The best open sandwiches in town

Where | Frankowitsch

What to eat | One of their open sandwiches. And a pfiff; a very small glass of beer.

In a nutshell | A Graz institution since 1932, these guys are known for their tasty open-faced sandwiches. That is, one slice of dense bread with an array of freshly made fillings (toppings?). It's a top spot for lunch, and you'll also be spoilt for choice when it comes to their perfect patisseries. I popped in just before they were closing at 7pm, so there were only a few sandwiches left. Pumpkin seed cream all the way - a glorious pre-dinner bite. 

frankowitsch.at
Stempfergasse 2, 8010 Graz

pumpkin seed cream open sandwich from Frankowitsch, Graz
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18) Graz | Home-cooked Styrian food 

Where | Altsteirische Schmankerlstube

What to eat | Home-cooked Styrian food.

In a nutshell | I had such a wonderfully self-indulgent solo dinner here. If I haven't mentioned it before, I relish solo dining, and when the setting is just right, with wonderful food, I find it quite hard to beat. This place came recommended by a local.

I went for a glorious plate of huge, plump and dark Styrian runner beans as a starter, followed by roast pork in a cider sauce and potato dumpling fingers. A couple of glasses of sparkling elder wine, and a good book on the Kindle, and you have the makings of a fantastic evening.

schmankerlstube.at/en
Sackstraße 10 A, 8010 Graz

a terrific classic Styrian dinner at Altsteirische Schmankerlstube, Graz
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19) Graz | Dine in one of the country's most iconic and alien buildings

Where | Kunsthauscafé inside Graz's contemporary art museum, Kunsthaus

What to eat | Really good veggie fare.

In a nutshell | In the belly of this internal organ-like building, you'll find the chic and urban Kunstauscafé. Serving food from breakfast through to dinner, expect exciting vegan and vegetarian dishes (they do meat too), great coffee, trendy clientele, and cocktails with a side of electro beats in the evening. They also have wifi, and power points around the bar seating are. An ideal spot to while away a couple of hours, at any time of day.

kunsthauscafe.co.at
Lendkai 1, 8020 Graz

all of the cool vibes at Kunsthauscafé, Graz
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Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with the Austrian National Tourism Board. I'm thrilled they invited me along to experience some of this wonderful country. And I truly revelled in the solo travel aspect. It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on. All views remain my own, as always.

Related posts
AUSTRIA | 10 less obvious things you should definitely do in Innsbruck, Salzburg and Graz

AUSTRIA | 10 less obvious things you should definitely do in Innsbruck, Salzburg and Graz

feeling on top of the world up the Nordkette mountain range, Innsbruck
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One of my New Year's resolutions for 2017 was to explore more of Europe. Sure, exotic long-haul destinations are fabulous, no one doubts that. But I don't want to be that person who doesn't make the most of having one of the most vibrant continents in the world on their doorstep. I'm already guilty for similar things as a Londoner; I've lived here all my life, and I've never been been inside the Tower of London. Outcry!

So when I received an email from the Austrian National Tourism Board (ANTO), asking if I'd like to hit up three Austrian cities over five days in the summer, and indulge in a bit of solo travel, I was thrilled. A new country - tick. Travelling on my own, on my own terms - tick. Mountain air and all of the konditoris - tick.

On the agenda, Innsbruck, followed by Salzburg, ending up in Graz. There would be train travel thanks to the awesome OBB train company in between (the business class tickets and fully functioning wifi were gratefully received - I got so much work done!). And I had loose suggestions of what I might want to get up to there, but it was ultimately down to me. The real focus of this #UncoverAustria campaign was to showcase the country in all its summertime glory, as many people's immediate thoughts about Austria are related to skiing or Christmas markets (both of which I hear are great too).

the cool infographic ANTO created
to promote me heading out there

Innsbruck is is the capital of Austria's Tyrol province, surrounded by the craggy peaks of the Austrian Alps. Because of this, it's a stunner. The locals love to be outdoors, usually found skiing in the winter, or hiking and mountain biking in the summer. The centre is compact and walkable, it's packed with culture and university students, and a lot of it reflects the glory days of Emperor Maximilian I, who made Innsbruck his imperial capital 500 years ago.

Salzburg may well be the best known from the bunch, thanks to it being the film location for much of the The Sound of Music (can't say that I've seen it - whoops), the birthplace of Mozart, and the home of Red Bull. It's right on the border with Germany, and the storybook Old Town burrowed below steep hills looks much as it did when Mozart lived there 250 years ago. 

If I had to pick a favourite (don't make me choose!), Graz would probably be it. It's the capital of the southern Austrian province of Styria, it's the second largest city in the whole country, yet it's also the most relaxed. 

There aren't any big hitting sights to check off, or particular claims to fame (although, this is where Arnold Schwarzenegger is from, and I hear he visits every year), meaning your time can be spent leisurely meandering, and soaking up the atmosphere. Colourful buildings, secret passageways, idyllic Renaissance courtyards, and endless excellent al fresco places to drink and dine. The Graz locals inherit a lot of their way of life from nearby Italy; they enjoy eating, drinking and spending time with friends. But there's also a youthful energy, with an edgy vibe thanks to a vibrant arts scene and great nightlife. Absolutely my kind of city.

Looking past the money-spinners, and a lot of the more obvious stuff you'll find in any run-of-the-mill guide, I've come up with a few things I think are really worth doing across these three cities. And stay tuned for the second post from this trip - a culinary tour of two cities: 20 things to eat in Salzburg and Graz. As well as a video!

views of the river Salzach in Salzburg
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1) Innsbruck | head up the Nordkette mountain by cable car 

Known as the "Jewel of the Alps", Nordkette mountain is quite frankly, breathtaking. It's at the heart of Innsbruck, and is part of Karwendel Nature Park, Austria’s largest nature park. The supremely excellent thing about getting to the top of it, is that you can do so from the city centre in a matter of minutes.

You first hop on the modern Hungerburg Funicular (designed by the late and great Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid), which leaves directly from Innsbruck's old town, stopping at the Alpine Zoo (Europe's highest altitude zoo) and then Hungerburg. It's here you then switch to the cable car to continue you ascent up the mountain.  

We glided over majestic forests, the out-of-service ski lifts (it all must look quite spectacular covered in snow), and hikers following the the flat and snaking trails. If I return to Innsbruck one day (fingers crossed), hiking these is top of my agenda. I love a good hike, and there are ones to suit all levels of abilities here.

At an altitude of 6,250ft you'll come across Seegrube Restaurant, where you should stop for a typically Tyrolean lunch (schnitzel for me), and definitely a hot chocolate with cream and a side of brandy. Set aside at least an hour or so for ample sensational view soaking, and all of the picture taking. It's glorious up there.

nordkette.com/en/

scenes from up The Nordkette, Innsbruck

2) Innsbruck | eat cake at Tyrol's oldest cafe

Cake and Austria go hand in hand, so it makes sense to indulge at every given opportunity. But if you're forced to prioritise one konditorei in Innsbruck, it should be Café Munding. 

Once frequented by dukes, queens, and princes, Café Munding has been in the same family since 1803, making it the oldest coffee and cake spot in Tyrol. The interiors are surprisingly basic, probably to take as little attention away from the stars of the show as possible - beautiful cakes. Expect the likes of rich chocolate gateau studded with gold leaf and fresh raspberries; individual apple streusels with teeny Tyrolean hats; lemony tarts; and fat doughnuts.

obligatory cake selfie at Café Munding

Select your sin, order a coffee, and enjoy them al fresco as you watch the locals go by.

munding.at
Café Munding, Kiebachgasse 16, 6020 Innsbruck

3) Innsbruck | set aside time for photography

Due to two aborted plane landings, eventually resulting in a diversion to Munich airport in Germany (best not to ask..), from which I had to continue the journey to Innsbruck by car, I ended up having the least amount of time here out of the three cities. Yet despite this, I found the majority of the images on my camera were from Innsbruck; it is an exceedingly photogenic part of the world.

At the end of every road, there seems to be another monumental mountain. The cobbled streets of the old town are flanked by colourful buildings. And it's hard to beat a 6,000 feet vantage point over the whole city up the Nordkette.

So if you are a person that enjoys taking photos, be sure to factor into your itinerary some time to get intentionally lost and capture the beauty of Innsbruck.

Innsbruck looking most exquisite
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4) Salzburg | climb up to the fortress for the city views

On the note of vantage points, high on my agenda when I visit any new city is finding the best one. I love a good skyline shot, and if I can time it at golden hour, even better.

The best place to do this in Salzburg is on the ascent up to Hohensalzburg Fortress, high above the rooftops of the Baroque historical district. The fortress is absolutely worth visiting in its own right, and you can either make your way up on foot (you'll be a little out of breath at points, but it's very picturesque), or you can ride the fortress funicular (“Festungsbahn”) from the Festungsgasse. 

The fortress plays host to the famous Salzburg Fortress Concerts (wonderfully atmospheric, I bet), there are plenty of museums, and every Sunday at 11.45am, musicians perform in the 'Trumpeter Tower', the Baroque fanfare wafting down on the breeze to the Old City below.

I hiked up just before dinner time, and arrived when the fortress was closing, do didn't get to take a look inside. But I did get this shot of Salzburg at sundown. So, silver linings.

Festung Hohensalzburg, Mönchsberg 34, 5020 Salzburg

Salzburg at sundown from the Hohensalzburg Fortress
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5) Salzburg | experience dinner and a Mozart show in Europe's oldest restaurant

I didn't get to do this, and I'm gutted. The whole thing runs from about 6.30pm until quite late, and I just didn't have the time. But if and when I return to Salzburg, this is number one on my to do list.

Salzburg is where Mozart was born, it's a city with a deep connection to classical music and the arts, Mozarteum Salzburg University is one of the finest in the world to study music and dramatic arts, and all this love for culture is celebrated year round through concerts and festivals. 

So it makes complete sense (to me, at least), to combine this world class level of music and performance, with a great meal, in the form of the Mozart Dinner at what is also Europe's oldest restaurant, St Peter Stiftskeller (it dates back 1200 years!).

It's a dinner concert, if you like, transporting diners back to Mozart's time. You get an evening of entertainment by candlelight, a menu based on historical recipes served during concert intermissions, there are period costumes and instruments, and Mozart's exquisite pieces are performed by the talented Amadeus Consort Salzburg, all within the setting of the restaurant's grand baroque hall.

I was told it's loved by locals and tourists alike, and it sounds like great fun. It's 56 Euros a head (68 Euros at Christmas), and alcohol is extra. You're on grand communal tables as pictured below, so it's a great chance to say hi to your neighbours if you fancy it. But do book ahead, as it's very popular.

stpeter.at/en/
St. Peter Bezirk 1/4, 5020 Salzburg

inside St Peter Stiftskeller Restaurant in Salzburg, and the grand Baroque Hall bottom left
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6) Salzburg | visit Red Bull's Hangar-7 and stay for breakfast

I only realised during this trip that Red Bull is Austrian, and the founder Dietrich Mateschitz is from Salzburg. Which explains the slick Hangar-7 at Salzburg airport. 

It's a unique and impressive building housing a collection of 25 historical aeroplanes, helicopters, and Formula One racing cars, and is also home to Austrian aviation team, The Flying Bulls. It even has the pod that Salzburg-born Felix Baumgartner jumped to Earth from, and the space suit he was wearing, when he skydived from a helium balloon all the way up in the Earth's stratosphere, back in October 2012. I remember watching that live on TV. Equal parts incredible and crazy.

All that cool stuff aside, you should definitely also visit for the food. Carpé Diem cafe does a mean breakfast spread, showcasing an array of local Austrian specialities, beautifully presented on a three tiered stand. I duly removed them all and placed on the table for flatlay purposes - sorry guys! 

Expect the likes of local ham and cheeses; 'Eggs Benedict' with potato foam and crispy bacon; tomato and mozzarella toast; Bavarian veal sausage with sweet-potato mustard; smoked salmon with cucumber yoghurt, horseradish and crisp bread; beef tartare with potato crunch; waffle; bircher muesli; Danish pastries; kombucha; and some other tasty bits. Then there's also the restaurant Ikarus, where a different top chef from around the world takes the reigns of the kitchen each month. A great concept.

It's completely worth heading a little way out of the city (it's not far) for Hangar-7. You can appreciate one of Salzburg's more contemporary offerings, and eat well. 

hangar-7.com/en/
Hangar-7, Salzburg Airport Wilhelm-Spazier-Straße 7A, 5020 Salzburg

Red Bull's Hangar-7 at Salzburg Airport, and breakfast at Carpé Diem café
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7) Salzburg | chill on the banks of the Salzach River

When in any city, make like the locals. In Salzburg's case in the summertime, this involves relaxing on the grassy banks of the river Salzach. On a sunny day, you'll find families, couples, groups of friends, and solo sunbathers taking time out on the city's answer to a beach.

You can either loll about on the sloping banks themselves right by the water's edge, or find a sun-drenched bench on the walkway above. Either way, pack a picnic, get hold of some ice cream, enjoy the views, and embrace the downtime.

locals enjoying the sunshine on the banks of the river Salzach in Salzburg
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8) Graz | head to the top of the city's largest department store, but not for the shopping

Well of course, you can shop if you like. But my main reason for telling you to visit the top floor of Kastner & Öhler, and walk through to the al fesco area of Freiblick Bar, is because of the views (I'm all for great views, as you might have gathered).

You'll find a little viewing platform jutting out over the road, which you can clearly see from the street below. It's a great spot from which to appreciate Graz's stunning architecture and red rooftops. You also get a terrific view of the clock tower on top of Schlossberg hill just ahead (more on that below).

No need to purchase anything in the bar if you don't want to, just head straight on through, and be sure to have your camera with you.

freiblick.co.at/essen
Freiblick Bar, 6th Floor, Kastner & Öhler, Sackstraße 7-13, 8010 Graz

views of Graz from the Freiblick Bar, 6th Floor of Kastner & Öhler
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9) Graz | marvel at the exquisite palace staircases

I was on the Taste of Graz Walking Tour, which ended up lasting much longer than it should have, because my lovely guide learnt of my love for beautiful architecture. He mentioned he also does a walking tour that specifically visits the spectacular staircases found in some of the old royal palaces dotted around the city, and he showed me a couple.

We would walk along a main road, come across an absolutely huge and imposing door, right there on the street next to any other normal shop, Gunther would lean into it to shove it open, and behind these doors were the sorts of sights below. No one was guarding them, and they were completely free and available for anyone to just pop in and check out. Yet it felt to me that no one new these jewels were right there, hiding in plain sight.

I don't have the addresses or locations for these, and I can't find any mention of the staircase tour online, so I'd suggest getting in touch with Graz Tourism if you're keen on learning more about where to find them.

beautiful palace staircases in Graz

10) Graz | climb the steps of Schlossberg hill

OK I'll admit, my initial thoughts when reading 'clock tower fortress' weren't dominated by excitement. But actually, it's positively bucolic up there. 

The Schloßberg is a tree-clad hill right in the centre of Graz, surrounded by the ochre red rooftops I mentioned above. The hill is a public park, and the ascent by foot is short slog up some stairs, but great for stopping every so often to take in the views. 

The bell tower itself, an icon of the city and part of an old fortress dating back to the 16th century, is impressive in its own right. The park has many levels of space to lounge about and watch the clouds drift by. It's also only really from up here that you can fully appreciate the alien design of the Kunsthaus, the city's contemporary art museum.

Plus, when you descend, you can do so via an alternative route, through the Herberstein Garden, known as the 'Hanging Gardens of Graz'. It's a series of terraces with small vineyards and Mediterranean plants, making the most of the south facing aspect. My favourite bit about this spot are the views and photo opportunities - quelle surprise!

views from the top of the Schloßberg, Graz
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Note: This is a sponsored post in partnership with the Austrian National Tourism Board. I'm thrilled they invited me along to experience some of this wonderful country. And I truly revelled in the solo travel aspect. It's been great fun and a pleasure to collaborate on. All views remain my own, as always.