HUNGARY: Babel Budapest

Fine regional dining from Hubert Hlatky-Schlichter at Babel Budapest

Babel Restaurant

In the heart of one of Budapest’s most charming districts, lies a highly sought after fine-dining restaurant, without the stuffiness. Owner and restaurateur Hubert Hlatky-Schlichter tells me its name, Babel, relates to the The Hanging Gardens of ancient Babylon. “People wanted to touch the perfection of God,” he explains. “We want to achieve something similar, but more accessible, in our kitchen.” 

The venue is an ode to the craftsmanship and bountiful produce found within Hungary’s borders. At least three quarters of ingredients are from the country’s own larder, and the sleek and sophisticated interiors and accessories are almost entirely Hungarian-made. From Ajka Crystal glasses, to the fully Hungarian wine list boasting no less than 170 bottles, Babel Budapest is a place that shows respect for the country’s traditions. 

Nowhere is that more prevalent than in the menu itself. “Our personal goal is to show the flavours and food of regional Hungarian cuisine, and that it’s not just paprika and pork,” explains Hlatky-Schlichter. It’s one that takes inspiration from the dishes of the former Austrian-Hungarian monarchy, paying homage to familiar classics, but interpreting them in the unique and contemporary Babel style. 

A favourite dish of home cooks across the country, hearty krumplis tészta (Hungarian potato pasta), manifests into an almost unrecognisable version finished with a delicate hand. At Babel, the traditionally crudely chunky Jókai bean soup is translated into a refined version fit for the most discerning diner.

Babel Restaurant

Whilst these perennial favourites might look exotic when on Babel’s plates, once a native Hungarian takes a bite, familiar memories are revived. And this is part of Babel’s ambition; for people to not only visit for the excellent food, but also for an emotive experience. 

An a la carte and tasting menus are available - some paired with wine, cheese, or both - along with a degustation option for vegans. Once you’re in, expect to stay a while; Babel rarely turns its tables and the level of service and kitchen competence means you’ll be in no hurry to leave.

This meal was hosted as part of a commission for the Budapest Finest Magazine, where this article also appears.

HUNGARY: The Brasserie and Atrium Restaurant at Corinthia Hotel Budapest

Destination dining at Corinthia's Brasserie and Atrium Restaurant

Executive Sous Chef Atilla Feith

Beautifully restored for a new generation of traveller, half of Corinthia Hotel Budapest's Brasserie and Atrium restaurant boasts soaring glass ceilings, nestled between two main sections of the property. A covered space drenched in light, the atrium is a venue that brings the outside in, allowing patrons to delight in the joys of al fresco dining, without being exposed to the elements.

An all-day restaurant catering to both in-house guests and those from outside, the kitchen squad of 38 to 55 (depending on the time of year) is responsible for buffet Sunday brunches and breakfasts, and an a la carte menu for lunch and dinner.

Dishes highlight classic French training with a hint of England, thanks to the several years spent in the royal city of Windsor, by Executive Sous Chef and second in command, Atilla Feith. You can expect a mini quail scotch egg with your asparagus, for example, along with sous vide egg yolk and a caramelised hollandaise. 

Feith is responsible for the weekly-changing set menu, available at both lunch and dinner. “That’s the most seasonal menu,” he explains. “It’s the one where we can be really creative, and the dishes are never repeated.” Such inventiveness includes a plate of expertly executed venison loin, venison bolognese, chocolate tortellini, salt-baked celeriac, and parsnip crisps. 

venison and chocolate plate

The a la carte skips across Europe, stopping off at Italy, showcasing French techniques, and has a smattering of classic Hungarian dishes lifted by contemporary twists. Think a crafted plate of veal fillet "Kedvessy style", with seared duck liver, bread dumplings, and paprika-dill sauce.

Claiming the crown of Best Hotel Restaurant as voted for by diners during Dining City - a week long gastronomic event where restaurants across Budapest entice patrons with discounted menus - Corinthia’s Brasserie and Atrium is in its own right, a destination dining venue.

This meal was hosted as part of a commission for the Budapest Finest Magazine, where this article also appears.