SILVERSEA: A gourmet 7-day cruise through the Mediterranean

Silver Spirit sitting proudly docked in Menorca (lots more images at the end of post)
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Where in the world

A seven day cruise starting in Civitavecchia (Rome) where we boarded, followed by two days and one night docked in Livorno in Italy, with a day trip to Florence.

Then one day each was spent docked in Monte Carlo, Marseille, Porto Mahon in Menorca, and Palma de Mallorca, before ending the week in Barcelona where we disembarked.

Thoughts

I have a news flash for anyone under the age of 50. Cruises are cool. They're not just for the newly wed, the nearly dead, or the very well fed (ok, I might fall into that last option). At least, the Silversea ones aren't.

I've already written about the ship itself, the service, the suites, the vibe in general and the kind of people you find on there in SILVERSEA: Review of cruise ship Silver Spirit. Have a read, you might be surprised.

But what was especially attractive about this particular voyage was that it was a gourmet cruise, meaning heavy focus on food, dining, wine, awesome Michelin-starred chefs, and full on gala dinners. And as you may have gathered, that's right up my street.

The best things I ate this week

This was a good week for eating. There were endless meals of good food and wine, a lot of it brilliant, and one too many cocktails. Below were some of my favourites, both aboard the ship and on land.

On board the ship

Italian Gala Dinner at La Terraza

With Italian culture orbiting around the epicentre that is food, you would expect dining to be a high priority at Silversea. And, it is. For starters, they have a partnership with the prestigious Grands Chefs Relais & Châteaux.

If you're on one of Silversea's gourmet cruises, you can expect gala dinners created and hosted by guest chefs from around the world. During our seven day voyage, two head chefs from Michelin-starred Relais & Chateaux restaurants, each presented two nights of pretty awesome feasting, held in the La Terraza restaurant.

My favourite was the entirely superb Italian gala meal thanks to guest chef Fabio Pisani from restaurant Il luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan, with a wine list devised by guest sommelier Gennaro Buono from Il Pagliaccio in Rome (you can find out more about Genarro and his wine under Did you know further down).

dishes from the Fabio Pisani's Italian gala dinner

There were five courses of some seriously spot-on cooking. The voluptuous risotto with courgette flowers adorned with freshly grated white truffle, the yielding veal sirloin with chamomile crust and tropea onions in a raspberry vinegar, and the cream of yoghurt mascarpone with coffee biscuit and bergamot ricotta - were the best from a very strong bunch.

A special note must be given to the accompanying wine list from Gennaro Buono. Never have I experienced a wine pairing where every glass has been knock-out. And there was a bit of a 'STOP PRESS' moment when we got onto the Marche Rosso Kurni 2013 - Oasi degli Angeli. 

I don't know a great deal about wine, but I do know no other glass has ever got me this excited. I quite simply, couldn't stop drinking it. 

It was a good night, as you might imagine.

our group looking rather pleased with ourselves,
with Fabio Pisani at the centre and the pastry chef on the left

Japanese degustation menu at Seishin

We dived into a full on nine-course Japanese tasting menu and a bit too much sake at Seishin on our first night. This is one of two restaurants on the ship (the other being Le Champagne) that come with a little surcharge for evening dining ($40 / £27 per person), but it's like, totally worth it. 

I'm always a bit weary when there's a solo, token Asian restaurant in a hotel or in this case, on a cruise ship, that's not in Asia. They often feel like an afterthought, only there because the place thinks it should probably be serving some sort of Asian food, just to cover their bases.

I wasn't expecting it to be that good. It was very good. 

There was a sparkling caviar sorbet to start, and as well as all of the shimmering sashimi and sushi, we had sea urchin with with potato mousseline, clams in a ponzu sauce, miso-glazed black cod, a corking lobster and lemonsgrass soup, and when we couldn't possibly stomach another savoury bite, the tepan wagu beef came out, and that was nothing but glorious.

I just wished I'd made it there for a lunch, where sushi and sashimi is sculpted while you wait, it's buffet, and there's no surcharge. I was usually on shore - dammit.

some of the dishes from the nine-course degustation menu at Seishin
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DIY hot-rocks steak and lobster at The Grill

Steak. Lobster. Add some fine red (which we obviously did), and that's unashamed indulgence right there. I'll go so far as to call it the holy trinity of a very good meal.

The finesse and pretty plates you find in The Restaurant or La Terraza have no place at the The Grill in the evenings. Instead (and what many would argue, preferred) you get given an almost molten slab of volcanic rock onto which you place your choice of protein, watch it smoke, and listen to it sizzle. Al fresco DIY hot-rock cooking. No fuss, no complications, just quality ingredients. It's a lot of fun. And it was one of my favourite meals from the week.

Fish of the day on our visit was lobster tail, but also expect salmon, fat prawns, and whatever else the chefs have managed to source.

Particular note should be given to the beef, or the chef (that was me), or probably both. The meat is Sterling Silver Premium, graded as "prime" and ranked in the top 12% of all available beef products in the world. The cows are grain-fed in the high North American plains and the meat hand-selected for superior marbling and a rich flavour.

What that all translates to is one seriously good rib-eye. So good, we went back a second night. There's no such thing as too much steak, right?

lobster tail and rib-eye sizzling away on my hot rock in The Grill

again, looking pretty pleased with ourselves - understandable
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Shore excursions

It can be a bit of a challenge pulling yourself away from the ship to explore the shore, what with all the on board amenities, a daily-changing and varied list of activities, and all food and drink included. 

But if you can manage it, there's a lot of good stuff to see. And eat, naturally.

Where to eat in Florence

There are these great places in Italy called fiaschetterie, which are little wine shops where people on their lunch break order a bite, a small glass of libation, and enjoy the two standing on the street. It looks infinitely more sophisticated done in Florence than the same thing could ever come across in London - I'm not sure a Big Mac and beer in Leicester Square would quite cut it.

We were looking for a place called I Due Fratellini, which was pretty easy to spot despite being on a side street, thanks to the small cluster of people congregated around it's tiny frontage. Inside, two men pouring wine by the glass and making great sandwiches. I got a roast ham and truffle cream panini, with a glass of local table Chianti, for just €5.50 (£4). 

sandwich from I Due Fratellini and gelato from Gelateria Santatrinita, Florence
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Better than a Boot's meal deal. And why is it still frowned upon to have wine on your lunch break in England? They even have little shelves on the walls outside with numbered sections, so you can perch your glass to free up your hands for eating, and pick up the right one after.

The UK has some catching up to do.  

I Due Fratellini, Via dei Cimatori, 38R, 50122 Firenze

Then we sauntered about a bit, and across the Ponte Santa Trinita bridge, until we found Gelateria Santatrinita. This was just about the best textured gelato I've ever had. It was like eating a cloud.

Three scoops - sesame, pistachio (a must when in Italy) and coffee. There's a picture of it above with the Ponte Vecchio in the background. It was bloody gorgeous.

Gelateria Santatrinita, Piazza Frescobaldi, 11-12/r (Ponte Santa Trinita), 50125 Firenze

the Ponte Vecchio, Florence

Florence

Where to eat in Palma de Mallorca

Oh yes. This meal was truly wonderful. Easily my favourite lunch from the week.

Hands down, this was the best paella I've ever had. The texture of the grains, the flavours, the big fat juicy hunks of gorgeous fresh fish, the tender squid. Everything was so spot on. One of those food gatherings where the stars align - fautless food, reasonable prices, a great setting, perfect weather, and awesome pals. I've actually dreamt about it since - true story. 

This was had at ENCO Gastronomy, a great spot we happened to stumble upon near the cathedral. And there were fish bowls of sangria. And bread with jamon and local cheese. And pickled chillies. I mean, it was just excellent. And you can't beat a feast like that in the late autumn Spanish sunshine.

ENCO Gastronomy, Vicari Joaquin Fuster, 15, 07006 Portixol, Palma de Mallorca

pitch perfect paella at ENCO Gastronomy, Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Mallorca

Palma Cathedral de Santa María, Palma de Mallorca
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Where to eat in Porto Mahon, Menorca

I really enjoyed the few hours I had on Menorca. The view of its coastline coming in on the boat was quite something, and meandering through the quiet streets was nothing but dreamy. Plus the food market was rocking, full of locals, having a glass of something good and nibbling on small plates. I bought two trio packs of morcilla, chorizo and pork belly to make classic Spanish bean stews with. I'm looking forward to that.

We were on the hunt for a place to eat, and it's hard to go too wrong if you follow the crowds. We ordered several plates of tapa and sangria from a bustling restaurant - morcilla with fried onions and quail's egg, sobrasada-stuffed pastries, Iberico with caramelised goat's cheese, and the rest.

If you're a fan of gin (and let's face it, what good soul isn't), I implore you to try Xoriguer gin local to Mahon. It's one of the only gins in the world (alongside Plymouth) to have a geographical indication, Gin de Menorca. I think this was the best G&T I've ever had. If you can enjoy it in the Spanish sunshine, even better.

I usefully forgot to note down where we had the tapas. Soz. The gin can be found everywhere.

tapas, local gin and market Iberica ham sandwiches in Porto Mahon, Menorca

the view from the ship coming into Porto Mahon, Menorca
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Did you know?

There are a lot of culinary-related activities only found on the Silversea's gourmet cruises that are really very interesting.

These were some of my favourites were:

Galley Tour

You can attend a really insightful tour of the huge central galley kitchens, fascinating if you're interested in seeing the belly of a beast that caters to so many people, all day, every day, and how all that is managed and overseen by one person. 

Executive Chef Anne-Mari Cornelius, responsible for 63 members of staff across five galleys, walked and talked us through a couple of them. It was very reassuring to hear pasta is made fresh daily with traditional grano duro (semolina) flour, along with bread baked twice a day (so it's never more than a few hours old), and fresh produce always locally sourced from the first port before the ship sets sail.

Executive Chef Anne-Mari Cornelius

Cooking Demonstrations

As well as Fabio Pisani and his stellar Italian gala dinner mentioned earlier, the other Michelin-starred Relais & Chateaux chef on board was Erik Arnecke, from restaurant Philipp Soldan in Frankenberg. He too devised and hosted two gala dinner evenings, which were great, but I also managed to make it to one of his cooking demonstrations.

Lap-top eating and 11.15am wine in the theatre-style Show Lounge was no bad way to get through the morning. Erik was on the stage cooking and assembling one of the dishes from his menu the night before - marinated langoustine carpaccio, avocado, rose and espelette pepper.

It's a great opportunity to ask a master of the kitchen any questions you might have been saving for a Michelin-starred interview.

about to eat the product of Erik Arnecke's
cooking demonstration

Wine Tasting

I already mentioned Genarro Buono's genius in introducing me to a wine that had me reeling for days, it was that good. Well, he was also available for wine tastings each day, where guests could sit in the comfort of one of the plush bars, working their way through a series of five glasses.

Genarro is a wine week in the truest sense. He qualified third at the competition of Best Sommelier in Italy in 2010, and two years later he won the title. So he knows what he's talking about. And he talks about it, a lot.

Most of the tasting notes are lost on me; I can usually identify the overriding aroma and flavour, but not a huge amount else. But the best thing about this is seeing someone so passionate and knowledgeable about their craft, and getting to ask him any wine-related questions you might have been storing up. And drinking them, obviously.

Genarro Buono and one of his wine tasting event
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My insider tips

When docked in Livorno, the ship provides a paid for shore excursion to get you into Florence, should you fancy a day trip. A big coach will take you and if I recall correctly, it costs around €90 per person for the return journey. 

That's not bad value, but it's not flexible. There's only one departure time, which was too early for us (8.15 am) considering our late night drinking the day before. And the coach gives you a generous 8 hours or so in the city, so if you're done beforehand, you need to hang around until it's ready to leave. 

getting my culture fix in the Uffizi Gallery, Florence
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Or, you can approach one of the private taxi guys you'll find around the port as you disembark. This is only worth it if there are a few of you, to keep costs down. But do haggle a little if what they're offering sounds too much. We were offered a price and thought it too high, asked the driver just to take us to the station so we could catch a train into the city instead (another good option). Then on the way, he dropped his price a little further, and we accepted.

With five of us in a roomy cruiser, we were charged €55 each (we added another 5 each for tip), he was faster than both the coach and train (he took under an hour each way), he waited in the city until we were done, and we dictated the time we returned. He was also a very nice guy, driving us around the main parts first, so we could get our bearings.

Totally worth it.

My other tip would be to make reservations for the restaurants on board. Some of them are quite intimate with only a few tables, such as Seishin. To avoid disappointment, secure a table beforehand - we saw quite a few guests having to be turned away from Seishin on the first night.

docked up in Monaco - yacht central. View from my cabin's veranda
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Highlights / Lowlights

Highlight  

All of it. Truly, I liked all of it, a lot. 

Particularly the morning we docked in Monaco. I woke up, pulled back the curtains bleary-eyed, and was greeted with the magnificent view above, right in front of me. One of those cities that looks best from the water. Good morning indeed!

Also, standing on my private veranda in my pj's before bed as the ship glided elegantly through inky waters, which became a nightly ritual. Looking up at a dark starry sky, the fresh sea air, the cathartic sound of gently swishing waters. Glorious.

I didn't really want to leave (see below).

Lowlight

Errrm - disembarking??

Porto Mahon, Menorca

Disclaimer

Note: Silversea kindly hosted this trip, including flights, as part of a media package - thank you to everyone involved for a truly wonderful and unique experience. 
 
A special note also goes out to Addison Lee Cabs who whisked me to the airport when it was too early for public transport, and also met me on arrival when I returned to London. Their free in-car wifi and charging stations are particularly handy when you forget to do all those important things before running out of the house.

Their loyalty service is also worth reading up on if you're a regular cab user - ClubLee gives some worthy discounts and exclusive offers.

All views remain my own.

Do take a look at the coverage from my wonderful fellow shipmates too: Hermione Olivia, Lavender and Lovage (Karen's write-up here) and The Travel Hack.

Postcards

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Florence

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Mallorca

Porto Mahon, Menorca

Porto Mahon, Menorca

Porto Mahon, Menorca
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Related links

SILVERSEA: Review of cruise ship Silver Spirit

BEYOND PHO: Vietnam's regional noodle soups [for Great British Chefs]

serving up bun ca sua noodle soup
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Every few feet in Vietnam you'll come across a cluster of locals crouched over steaming bowls of something good, perched on diminutive plastic stools that would barely accommodate one cheek of the average-sized western behind, and are a challenge to negotiate for anyone over five foot nine. These bowls usually contain noodle soup.

The Vietnamese like to be outdoors no matter what time of year – people will occupy the pavements, gathered in groups close to the ground. If it’s cold, they’ll be wrapped up in coats, the rising steam from their dinner warming their faces. 

I don’t think I’ve ever eaten as much rice as I did during my five weeks travelling the length of Vietnam. Much of that was in the form of rice noodles, and they were usually in a broth. I had pho just a handful of times; most of the rest of my eating saw me getting acquainted with all the other regional noodle soups found throughout the country. 

Read the full Beyond pho: Vietnam's regional noodles soups over on Great British Chefs to learn more about my favourites.

bowls of very lovely mi quang noodle soup

Related links
Week 8: VIETNAM - Sapa → Hanoi → Ha Long Bay → Hanoi
Week 9: VIETNAM - Hue → Hoi An
Week 10: VIETNAM - 6 day / 5 night motorbike tour from Hoi An to Da Lat
Week 11: VIETNAM - Da Lat → Nha Trang
Week 12: VIETNAM - HCMC → Mekong Delta → HCMC

SILVERSEA: Review of cruise ship Silver Spirit

view from my cabin aboard Silversea's Silver Spirit ship

In a nutshell

The newest and largest cruise ship from Silversea's fleet of eight, the exclusive Silver Spirit accommodates an intimate 540 guests, 376 crew, and some of the most spacious lodgings at sea. 

All suites have an ocean-view, with most having private verandas you can step out onto to take a deep breath of that salty sea air, and they all come with a butler. Yep.

I spent seven days on it; it was an excellent week.

Silversea's Silver Spirit

Silversea's Silver Spirit

Where is it?

Well, it really could be anywhere. 

The fleet of eight, as a collective, sail to over 800 destinations on all seven continents, more than any other cruise line. These ultra-luxury vessels are small and nimble, meaning they can slip up narrow waterways into the heart of a city, or tie up right at the pier while others need to anchor off shore. And that is very cool indeed.

Think of cruising on up into the centre of St. Petersburg, around the tip of Cape Town, along the oil-rich sheikdoms of the Middle East, across bustling Sydney Harbour, or through breathtaking Chilean fjords. 

The Silversea Cruises destination guide is split into Africa and the Indian Ocean; Alaska; Asia; Australia and New Zealand; Canada and New England; Caribbean and Central America; Mediterranean; Micronesia, Melanesia, and Polynesia; Northern Europe and the British Isles; South America; and Transoceanic.

But this particular week-long trip was the last Mediterranean voyage of the year. We set sail from Livorno in Italy, visiting Monte Carlo, Marseille, Porto Mahon (Menorca) and Palma de Mallorca, before disembarking in Barcelona.

Silversea's Silver Spirit

Style and character

The Veranda Suite. I was really impressed with it. Mostly because it was a good deal larger than a lot of fancy hotel rooms I've stayed in.

Incredibly generous in its proportions, with enough space for a bath tub (apparently very rare - verging on unheard of - in cruise cabins), separate walk in wardrobe, a huge bed, more storage space than my own bedroom, a living room area with a sofa and armchair that can be partitioned off with a curtain, and floor-to-ceiling glass doors, opening onto a private teak veranda, with patio furniture. 

And they're not even the biggest suites; they're second from bottom from an option of six. The bottom entry - the Vista Suite - has the exact same proportions, just without the veranda.

They weren't kidding when they said they had some of the most spacious accommodation on the seas.

cabin aboard Silversea's Silver Spirit
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I'm told this is a small vessel, in the grand scheme of cruise ships. Some of the real monsters can hold thousands of guests; I assume just like like massive, hellish resorts with too many screaming kids, but in the middle of the ocean. So good luck escaping that.

But it's weird, because Silver Spirit felt huge to me (so who knows what those towns-at-sea must feel like). It took me a good few days to figure out where everything was, and to stop getting lost. And actually, for the number of guests it holds (540, so lets half that to get the number of rooms), it is big. 

The amount of space per head is so generous, that sometimes you'll be in a part of the ship and not spot another soul. Apart from the exemplary staff who'll know you're there, then sidle on over to see if you'd like a drink with that spectacular bruising sunset you're enjoying. Go on then.

Then there's all 8,300 square feet of the on board spa, with nine treatment rooms, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas, an outdoor whirlpool, and the ceramic-tiled Thermal Suite - an exclusive spa area with heated lounge chairs. They've even got a connecting private Hammam (Turkish bath) Chamber, one of several treatments unique to this particular ship. I wouldn't even know where to get a Hammam in London.
 

public spaces on Silversea's Silver Spirit

Should you be itching to spend some money - easier said than done considering all food and drink on the ship is included (you heard, see What's unique below) - there are plenty of opportunities. You can while away late night hours trying your luck at roulette, blackjack or slot machines in the onboard casino, get spendy in the strip of high-end boutiques selling the likes of Bulgari, Gucci and Swarovski, or opt for some pampering in the beauty salon.

The pool deck is furnished with chaise lounges arranged in the sun and shade, bubbling whirlpools and a pool that's heated when in cooler climates. Staff are dotted about at the ready with an oversized towel and your favourite tipple as you emerge from it.

The well equipped fitness centre is very necessary evil to work off the inevitable over-indulgence, and the Show Lounge theatre hosts a load of entertainment, from full-scale production shows and classical soloists, to cultural entertainment and feature films. It's also the place you'll find people doing lectures on stuff they know a lot about. During my stay, there was a talk by Alexandre Renoir, the great-grandson of the great French impressionist Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and himself a successful artist.

Silversea's Silver Spirit

What's unique?

All inclusive. This truly is an all-in offering. Apart from shore excursion tours, the casino, beauty salon and spa services, and a minimal surcharge at a couple of on-board restaurants, everything on the ship is included in the fee. 

From room service, to your minibar being stocked with the premium wine or spirit of your choice (a whole litre-bottle's worth, by the way), all food and alcohol across the ship, shuttle buses into town at the docked ports (where applicable), even gratuities. Gratuities! There are few things more awkward in life than a loitering bell boy making endless small talk until you slip him a note. Not here - joy.

Butler for everyone. What is luxury living if it doesn't involve a butler. Not luxury enough, darling. Which is why on Silversea ships, every guest has a supremely smart tuxedo'd butler at their beck and call, in all suites, in every category. And they're the only cruise line in the world to do that.

Family-run. In a world of multi-national conglomerates, Silversea is owned and operated by one family — the Lefebvres of Rome. This means genuine pride in ownership, that uniquely Italian passion for embracing la dolce vita, and a personal commitment to maintaining the high standards of cruise excellence that have been the cornerstone of the company from the very beginning.

Fine art for sale. Silver Spirit doubles up as the Andrew Weiss art gallery. Every corridor on every deck is lined with exquisite pieces of fine art. There were so many, we were convinced they couldn't be genuine. There also seemed to be no security around them. "Where are the motion-detector laser beams, guards, alarm systems?" I asked a member of staff in earnest. "What if someone steals them!". The response, "Where will they hide? There's only one way off this ship, and no one is getting past with a Picasso." Good point.

Not to mention the price tags seemed pretty reasonable - $35,000 for a genuine Picasso? Bargain (if you have that sort of money)! But real they were, and for sale they were too. 

Art Curator Rami Ron was available for walks and talks through the collection, and special guest Alexandre Renoir (mentioned above), was also on board to chat all things creative. It's not every day you walk past pieces by Dali, Rembrandt, Warhol and Renoir, on the short saunter from your bedroom to breakfast.

fine art for sale in the Andrew Weiss gallery aboard Silversea's Silver Spirit

Who goes?

Cruise ships: for the newly wed, the nearly dead, and the very well fed. Such was the well-worn sea-faring phrase my shipmate Karen from Lavender and Lovage shared with me, in an exercise to point out that second category didn't seem to apply on Silver Spirit. "This ship has a far lower average age than any other I've been on," she divulged. 

Whilst the majority are 50+, there were many considerably younger couples, and two or three generations of families enjoying a holiday together. We spotted only one very elderly person confined to a wheelchair (a much more common sight on other ships, Karen told me); everyone else was sprightly and ready to party, whatever their age.

It was quite apparent that some had been on this ship many times before. I spotted a few guests at check-in embracing staff members like an old friend, with arms flung open wide. 

Taking that to the extreme, we shared a cocktail with a couple who have spent the best part of the past three years aboard this ship, travelling the whole world in what they call their 'second home'. They keep the same suite, and they will even keep their luggage on board despite an upcoming three week hiatus ashore before it sets sail on a new venture. 

Endless days of azure ocean views, being waited on hand and foot, and all the booze and food you can handle. That's no bad way to spend a few bob.

Silversea's Silver Spirit

Breakfast

Your choice where you have it - gazing out over serene waters from your cabin veranda, an al fresco buffet whilst enjoying the port views of wherever you've docked that morning at La Terrazza, or an a la carte offering from The Restaurant.

The spread is an impressive one. Expect the likes of a daily fruit or vegetable Vitamix blend, freshly baked bagels, muffins, rye crisp breads, pumpernickel, cold cuts, assorted cheeses, smoked salmon, juice-sweetened muffins, pastries, pancakes, waffles. 

There's fresh fruit including grilled peaches with acacia honey, cereals and granola with fresh berries, breakfast couscous with honey and dates, an egg station, a choice of English, Canadian or American bacon (get the American!), hash browns (rejoice - these are hardly ever at breakfast buffets), cumin-scented egg-white omelette florentine, bacon and spinach souffle, and a whole load more.

breakfast aboard Silversea's Silver Spirit

breakfast at La Terrazza aboard Silversea's Silver Spirit, docked in Monaco
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Dining

With Italian culture orbiting around the epicentre that is food, you would expect dining to be a high priority at Silversea. And, it is. For starters, they have a partnership with the prestigious Grands Chefs Relais & Châteaux.

La Terrazza is also the only restaurant at sea to be approved by the very well-respected international movement that is Slow Food.

Then there's the sparkling crystal, shining silver and sweeping ocean views in the ship's main dining room, The Restaurant, with impeccable continental and regional dishes. Or there are the hot rocks that take centre stage in the evenings at The Grill - DIY table-top lava-stone cooking at its most theatrical. Throw on a cut of Sterling Silver Premium rib-eye, watch it sizzle, and give your compliments to the chef (that's you).

Seishin showcases regional dishes from Japan, as well as China, Thailand, Vietnam and India, from Kobe beef to spider lobster, sake pairings, and a buffet sushi and sashimi bar for lunch.

There's a lot more to say about food and dining and all the amazing eating had on this particular trip, as it was one of Silversea's gourmet cruises. So I'm going to stop here, and save the rest for another post. 

(And here is that post - SILVERSEA: A gourmet 7-day cruise through the Mediterranean).

Silversea dining sneak peak - lobster and steak
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Service

There's a really key point to Silversea when it comes to staff; all gratuities are included in your fare. This means all that commendable service you receive on their ships - and trust me, there will be a lot of that - is motivated solely by the desire to execute great hospitality. And that makes a big difference. 

From the point of check-in, guests are greeted with an outstretched, white-gloved hand presenting a flute of champagne from a silver tray. There's a staff-to-guest ratio of nearly one to one, and they're all trained by the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. Not to mention the butlers receive their training from The Guild of Professional English Butlers.

They're not only very good at what they do, they clearly enjoy it. In fewer hospitality venues have I seen such great comradery amongst staff, and between staff and guests. Everyone, including those at work, seem to be having a bloody great time. They're very, very good at making the ship feel like an exclusive club, and you a preferred member of it.

A special thank you must be given to our butler, Albert. As every other member of staff seemed to do on this ship, he went out of his way to outdo expectations when it came to service. One night, we asked Albert if he could arrange a few drinks for us in one of our cabins, for a little pre-dinner in-room party. We were expecting a few glasses laid out, some ice, and perhaps him there to pour. 

What we actually got were balloons, flashing disco lights and a music playlist, and an impressive glowing table centrepiece, adorned with nibbles and a specially made chocolate-mousse birthday cake (superb) Albert managed to coax from a very busy galley. He stayed with us until we were ready to go down to dinner, topping up our glasses with fizz, mixing up gin and tonics, and slicing up the Menorcan salami we'd purchased earlier on in town that day.

Bravo and thank you, Albert.

the in-cabin pre-dinner party our fabulous butler, Albert, arranged for us
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Liked lots & liked less

Liked lots 

All of it. Truly, I liked all of it, a lot. 

Particularly the morning we docked in Monaco. I woke up, pulled back the curtains bleary-eyed, and was greeted with this magnificent view, right in front of me. One of those cities that looks best from the water. Good morning indeed!
 

Docked up in Monaco - yacht central. View from my cabin's veranda
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Also, standing on my private veranda in my pj's before bed as the ship glided elegantly through inky waters, which became a nightly ritual. Looking up at a dark starry sky, the fresh sea air, the cathartic sound of gently swishing waters. Glorious.

I didn't really want to leave. 

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The cabin was crying out for a kettle. And an iron and ironing board. You have to go to the laundry room - one on each deck - if you what to get the creases out of your shirt. When I popped in, there was someone already using the iron, so I had to wait for them to finish, awkwardly standing behind them in a very cramped space. 

I think it's a safety reason. But to counteract that, in that room there's a self-serve washing machine and dryer. Which means if you're at sea for a lengthy amount of time, you can get your clothes clean without having to pay for a laundry service. So that's good.

Price point

There are lots of variables that affect this. But taking a look at the website now, today, a similar 7-day cruise around the Med (slightly different stops), aboard Silver Spirit in April 2016, starts from £1950 per person.

And remember, that's all-inclusive. Best to give them a call on the number below for an accurate quote.

my fantastic shipmates - Hermione Olivia, Lavender and Lovage (Karen's write-up here) and The Travel Hack - taken when we first boarded, at the start of our week on the seas
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Contact

Tel | +44 844 251 0837
www.silversea.com
@Silversea
#silverseamoments

Disclaimer

Note: Silversea kindly hosted this trip as part of a media package - thank you to everyone involved for a truly wonderful and unique experience. 

A special note also goes out to Addison Lee Cabs who whisked me to the airport when it was too early for public transport, and also met me on arrival when I returned to London. Their free in-car wifi and charging stations are particularly handy when you forget to do all those important things before running out of the house.

Their loyalty service is also worth reading up on if you're a regular cab user - ClubLee gives some worthy discounts and exclusive offers.

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SILVERSEA: A gourmet 7-day cruise through the Mediterranean