Thursday, 5 March 2015

VIETNAM: Review of Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang

the longest over-water cable car in the world, from the mainland to Vinpearl Island
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In a nutshell 

An exclusive luxury resort set on its own private island in one of the world’s 30 most beautiful bays, with 84 coastal villas, and even its own amusement park.

Where is it?

Off the coast of Vietnam’s popular Nha Trang and a leisurely 15-minute cable-car ride over the waters of Nha Trang Bay, you'll find Hon Tre or Bamboo Island, adding texture to the area's picture postcard sunrises and sunsets. 


This island belongs to the premium leisure chain Vinpearl. On it you'll find three accomodation resorts: Vinpearl Resort, Vinpearl Premium (recently opened), and where I stayed, Vinpearl Luxury. The island is also home to the entertainment mecca that is Vinpearl Land Nha Trang.

The surrounding waters are home to rare ecosystems with many coral species, fish, molluscs, crustaceans and sea-grasses. In terms of venturing off the island for some exploring, you can take a boat trip along the coast for fishing villages and more bays. The Po Nagar Cham Towers can be found in Nha Trang, along with the Thap Ba hot springs and the 200-year old village of Phu Vinh.

Nha Trang is a 40 minute drive from the airport and as well as the cable-car option to get over the water, you can also take a ferry. Guests of the most high-end of the three resorts, Vinpearl Luxury, get to experience a chartered ride from the airport followed by a really swanky 7-minute speed-boat. 

My advice, sit outside at the top with the wind in your hair. Pretend it's yours and pretend you're driving. It feels good.

feeling pretty swish on the speedboat from the mainland to Vinpearl Island
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Style and character


When the island was sold of to a single developer, they didn't waste time in completely transforming the place. 

In less than ten years they renamed it, constructed two resorts (a third recently opened this year), an excluseive golf course, a cable car across the bay to get to it, a theme park, a waterpark, and an aquarium. And they've marked out their claim with a huge Hollywoodesque "Vinpearl" sign that shines brightly into the night for all to see.

There's a wide selection of plush villas at Vinpearl Luxury, with luxurious rooms that provide very high standards of comfort and indulgence. They all have attached balconies, some of which boast some very lovely views of the ocean and the island's white sand beaches. 

Each villa combines the deep tones of natural wood with soft colours on the walls and bright furnishings, and each has its own private jacuzzi out the back that's not overlooked. 

Particularly handy if you fancy getting rid of those tan lines.


What's unique?

The fact it's on its own island is a big one.

Then there's the myriad of diversions available on it. 

There's the newly opened 18-hole Vinpearl Golf Club, part of a stunning par-71 championship layout. If that sounds like too much hard work, there’s also the over-water Vincharm Day Spa with the individual treatment rooms set on stilts right over the sea front, along with tennis courts and snorkelling tours.

And then there's the endless entertainment available at Vinpearl Land, including an aquarium and amusement park complete with two-storey arcade games room and 4-D cinema. And even their own water park.

Vinpearl Land, Nha Trang
Who goes?

Vinpearl is a playground for Vietnam's new rich and their international counterparts. The exclusive access, luxury resorts and the pricey golf course help pull in a certain clientele.

In terms of nationalities, the main three are Russians (there are a lot of them in general in Nha Trang), Australians and Vietnamese. We got chatting to a British couple on their second visit, who said they'd never seen any other Brits there, and so assumed we were Australian. 

Those staying at the Vinpearl Luxury resort have full access to the whole island, including the private beaches and the hours of entertainment available at Vinpearl Land. But the people who stay at Vinpearl Luxury are generally there to relax and get away from noise and roudy kids, so tend to stay on the resort. It has everything you could possibly desire, so it's easy to see why.

During our stay, the resort was at about half capacity, so wasn't particularly full. But we barely saw anyone at all, as it's quite sprawling. A generally really peaceful place to be.

It's possible to visit the island with a ticket that just gives you access to the amusement park, rather than staying at any of the resorts, and many will make a day trip to do this. You will therefore come across a lot more families, children and people in general in these areas, and a lot less at the actual resorts. 

During peak season I can imagine the entertainment areas are overrun and queues are long.

grounds of Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang
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Dining

The buffet breakfast is served in the Blue Lagoon Restaurant, also open for buffet lunch and dinner and is the only one of the two dining options (there is a second a la carte restaurant) included in the full-board package.

You can expect local dishes at breakfast such as banh khot (small Vietnamese pancakes), banh cuon (rolled rice cakes) and banh chung (rice cakes with pork).
 

There were lots of freshly baked breads and pastries and t
he likes of peanut butter, whole tubs of Nutella, an array of freshly cut tropical fruit, a noodle soup station making bowls fresh to order, oatmeal, compotes, a pancake station and more.

breakfast at Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang
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Lunch and dinner were further impressive spreads, dishes varying with each meal. 

There's a really wide range of offerings showcasing international cuisine. From the likes of dim sum and wonton noodle soup with char sui, to roasted quail, salted fish with rice, and snails.

The BBQ available in the evening was particulary good. Your choice of fat prawns, juicy scallops, tender chops and succulent slabs of beef cooked al fresco to order and to your specification, and as much of it as you want. I really enjoyed the simplicity of letting quality pieces of meat see some brief heat, and nothing more.

There were also steamed crab legs, of which I ate about 25, doused in lemon. And some fantastic salmon sashimi, of which I had a similar amount.

And the mangoes. Oh my, the mangoes. Available at every meal sitting, and some of the best we had in Asia. We were dipping great hunks of their ambrosial flesh into the chocolate fountain, devouring two or three each at every go. I was averaging about eight mangoes a day. It was a bit obscene, really.

buffet dining at Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang
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Service

As you would expect at such a luxury resort - with the price tags to match - the service is impeccable. From remembering and addressing each guest by their name, to replacing your cutlery when you pop up to refill your plate, before you even realised they might need replacing. 


The staff make a concerted effort to engage with every guest, but not with banal annoying chit chat that feels forced, but really genuine conversation that was a pleasure to engage in. So, well done to all the staff members at the resort, they are a great asset.

Then there's the very nice touch of a bottle of chilled prosecco waiting in your room at check-in. Seeing as my partner doesn't drink, that was all for me.

Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang
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Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. The beach. It's exclusive, so was practically empty. Powdery white sand stretching over 400m around the island with limpid calm and shallow waters. It was hard to leave.

Liked less. Only a couple of niggles. There were no salts or bubbles provided with the bath. And there were no soft drinks included in the buffet meals. But that's it really.

Vinpearl Luxury, Nha Trang

Price point

Prices from around £360 a night for a villa with a garden view, to £490 for a Grand Duplex Villa, full board.

Contact

Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang
+84 8 39 111 177 2
Website

Note: This stay was kindly hosted by Vinpearl Luxury. All views remain my own.

Related links

Week 11: VIETNAM - Da Lat → Nha Trang
VIETNAM: Review of InterContinental, Nha Trang

Tuesday, 3 March 2015

VIETNAM: Review of InterContinental, Nha Trang

Ocean View bedroom at InterContinental, Nha Trang
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In a nutshell 

Located right in the middle of Nha Trang's beach front strip, this 19 storey property is the latest five star chain to join this coastal city's luxury hotel club.

Where is it?

Situated on the golden street of Tran Phu in Nha Trang City, the train station is 2km away, Cam Ranh International Airport is a 45 minute drive and the resort is 8km from the city centre.

Once a small fishing village, Nha Trang is now a stopover for annual yacht races, which begin their journeys as far away as Hong Kong. Nha Trang Bay stands as the 29th most beautiful bay in the world, chosen by Travel + Leisure for two successive years.

bedroom at InterContinental, Nha Trang
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Style and character

Rooms are elegantly furnished with earth-tone décor, and all 277 have balconies, marble bathrooms and big mini bar cabinets.

The bathroom had sliding partition walls sectioning it off from the bedroom to personalise and maximise space and when fully closed, you're surrounded by mirrors - great for checking out the back of your hair do.

The somewhat harsh and masculine metal lobby is softened by colourful blown up images of local scenes (very good ones at that), and the three outdoor swimming pools come with private cabanas.

What's unique?

This hotel is an IHG Green Engage hotel. This is an online system that gives the hotels the means to measure their day-to-day environmental impact. 

They can track how much energy, carbon and water they’re using and how well they’re managing waste. At the same time they can choose from over 200 activities designed to help them use fewer resources, improve their carbon footprint and reduce their water use. 

InterContinental, Nha Trang
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Who goes?

Its seafront location inevitably means many leisure guests. But the property also caters to business clients, as well as families with young children with a Kid's Club that gives parents some well deserved (no doubt) time off.

Breakfast

Served in the all-day dining restaurant Cookbook Cafe(also open from 11.00am for lunch through to 10.30pm for dinner) and recognising their diverse client base, it's an international offering.

There were lots of freshly baked breads and pastries, still in their silicon moulds fresh from the oven. The likes of peanut butter, whole tubs of Nutella, an array of freshly cut tropical fruit. 


There's congee with condiments, dim sum, pork buns, a noodle station making bowls to order, a rice roll station, a whole roasted ham, radish cakes, chicken feet in black bean sauce, pork meatloaf, beef stew, fried noodles, a banh mi station, century duck eggs.

There was also a fresh juice bar, waffles with banana and caramel sauce, ice cream (for breakfast!), and I even saw someone with a whole pizza on their table. And then there was a honey bee cabinet with live insects came with five different types of honey.

The western offering was a good looking spread, with bacon that was actually crisp, beans, hash browns, a waffle or crepe station (it alternated each day), and good chocolatey Vietnamese coffee.


Healthy choices are available with calorie counts, low GI indicators and gluten free dishes.

The Cookbook Cafe restaurant has shelves lined with Vietnamese cookery books, which is a nice touch.

breakfast at InterContinental, Nha Trang
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Service

The staff are a highlight of this hotel. All were very courteous, patient and accessible, always saying hello when walking past. 

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. You can hear the sound of the crashing waves during the night when all else is quiet, and that is nothing but wonderful.

Liked less. I can't fault the hotel itself. But in terms of Nha Trang, you know you're in a tourist hotspot when restaurant menus are in Vietnamese, and Russian..
 

InterContinental, Nha Trang
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Price point

Prices from around £83 a night for a deluxe king room to £140 for a premium king room, breakfast included.


Contact

32 - 34 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Vietnam
1 800 007 697
Website
@InterConHotels

Note: This stay was kindly hosted by the hotel. All views remain my own.

Related posts

Week 8: VIETNAM - Sapa → Hanoi → Ha Long Bay → Hanoi
Week 9: VIETNAM - Hue → Hoi An
Week 10: VIETNAM - 6 day / 5 night motorbike tour from Hoi An to Da Lat
Week 11: VIETNAM - Da Lat → Nha Trang
Week 12: VIETNAM - HCMC → Mekong Delta → HCMC

Sunday, 1 March 2015

Week 10: VIETNAM - 6 day / 5 night motorbike tour from Hoi An to Da Lat

Image of the week: soaking up one of the best views of the trip, coming into Da Lat on the final day.
Many more images at the end of the post



Where in the world


A six day and five night motorbike tour through Vietnam's central highlands, from Hoi An to Da Lat, with our drivers and guides, Thai and David from Dalat Easy Riders.

We stayed overnight in Kham Duc, Kon Tum, Pleiku, 
Buôn Ma Thuột and Lak Lake, before arriving at our destination.




Thoughts

The last time my chosen method of transportation was two wheels, I still had pigtails in my hair. Fast forward a couple of decades - during which I've cycled, I think, twice - and I've spent the best part of two weeks progressing along roads astride a saddle. 


Last week I mostly pedalled around Hoi An. This week, I've been careering through Vietnam's central highlands on the back of a motorbike; before this, I had never even sat on a motorbike.

If there's a country in which to first get acquainted with one of these machines, it's got to be Vietnam. Some people have cars, but absolutely everyone has a moped or motorbike. 

Whole families of four, sometimes five, will squeeze onto a single scooter, the toddler standing in the foot well in front of one parent, a baby in the arms of the other, with only the adults wearing helmets. They'll be doing at least 35 miles an hour, and be entirely comfortable with the situation. I can only assume Vietnamese children are born on motorbikes, such is their innate ability to stay on them.

And so, whilst both Matt and I were a little apprehensive in the run up to this tour, once we met David and Thai, saw the size and sturdiness of the bikes, marvelled at how they managed to soundly secure our massive bags onto the backs of them, and had survived the first couple of miles, I think we eased into it pretty well. 

one fully loaded bike





Via two wheels is the most economical way to get through Vietnam's mountainous region of the central highlands, if you're not keen on enduring buses with kamikaze drivers and few rest stops for days on end. 

It also means you get to visit rural areas off the beaten track - we saw just a handful of tourists doing similar journeys over the whole six days. Then there's soaking up the views without a glass window in the way, and a face full of fresh air rather than hours of air conditioning. 

Days 1 from Hoi An to Kham Duc, and then a lengthy day 2 onwards to Kon Tum, showed off the most spectacular scenery of the whole trip. Winding mountain passes, surrounded by dense and seemingly endless primeval forest straight out of a Jurassic Park set - I was fully expecting a brontosaurus neck to wind out of the vegetation. 

We also stopped off en route for a peak at a couple of thunderous waterfalls, using the opportunity to cool down in the fine spray.


On day 3 we headed towards the city of Pleiku, paying a visit to rudimentary rural villages along the way, where the local river is used for all non-drinking water needs. The kids are a highlight, always running out of their houses to wave and smile and say hello, then scurry away in a fit of shy giggles.

There were also coffee and pepper farms, Buddhist pagodas, and a late but very good lunch,  seeing as so many places were still closed for Tet (lunar new year). 

Day 4 is a bit of an endurance test. The journey between Pleiku and Buôn Ma Thuột consists of the flat plains of baked red earth between two highland areas. Roads turn to bumpy gravel, great plumes of dust bellow up into the air from the fast cars and coaches. The roadside flora slowly suffocates from the layer of earth coating the leaves. 

It's also a really long stretch, and hard on the backside. You'll arrive a few shades lighter from the head to toe covering of dirt, and in need of both a long shower and a long sleep.

Day 5 and 6 are noticeably cooler as the air freshens on the approach to Da Lat. There are great expanses of rice paddy fields against backdrops of mountains, more winding passes through pristine forests, a scramble across another waterfall, fields full of coffee trees in full bloom (an incredible aroma, by the way), houses of local tribes that float on water, and probably my favourite view of the trip yet (see image of the week above).

Then there are all the pit stops in between, every half hour or so, and very necessary to stretch the legs. For an iced coffee, for a laze in a hammock, for a walk through a forest trail, for a wonder over a dilapidated wooden bridge, for a stroll into a local market.

It was a great, if not tiring journey. If you're not too precious about luxury comforts, there are few better ways to get a feel of the Vietnam not everyone gets to see. I would definitely recommend it. 








The best things I ate this week

Lunches. As was the case two weeks ago in Sa Pa and Ha Long Bay, I've been less of a food tourist this week, eating wherever David and Thai have taken us and whatever has been put in front of me. 

They'd begin with "shall we order local Vietnamese food?". I mean, is the pope Catholic? Of course!

The meals have been some of my favourite parts of the tour, particularly the lunches. They were mostly at remote restaurants acting as much needed pit stops for drivers journeying through these long and winding highland roads; places we'd never find on our own and even if we did, know what or how to order.


Two stand outs were from day two and four. Quite similar in format, and seemingly always with an omelette full of flavour and a soup of boiled greens, the former also had pork, chicken with bamboo shoots, chillies and boiled eggs, garlic greens, and fish that was like posh tinned sardines.

The latter was chicken with lemongrass, fantastic marinated and grilled pork, bamboo shoots with chilli and boiled pork, wee little aubergines to dip into a shrimp sauce, and the omelette and a soup with boiled greens again. 

What I find a real shame is that some tourists don't want to eat this stuff. Perhaps they're worried about a dicky belly (no problems here), but they miss out, big time. It's regional cooking made with whatever is local and in season, it's cheap as chips, and it's consistently very good. Instead, at lunch, they get dropped off at a supermarket to find something for themselves.





Pho kho. Day 4 started with pho kho, where kho means dry, referring to the noodles used (as opposed to wet noodles, which is often the case).

So many crispy bits of fat, and fermented peanut sauce on the side to dip your beef in. 
It was really very good. Had at Pho Kho 22-24 Nguyen van troi in the city of Pleiku.

Street food must-eats

Vietnamese coffee. I don't really have a street food entry for this week. Instead, I'm putting in Vietnamese coffee.

Individual drip filters perched on glasses, thin layers of condensed milk. Mix, stir with ice to cool. So easy to drink, exactly what you fancy when you're hot and dusty, and I think I'm developing an addiction.



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Did you know?

Weasel coffee. Heard of weasel (civet) coffee? It's the seeds of coffee berries once they've been eaten and come out the other end of the Asian palm civet. 

They're cleaned up, roasted, ground, and used to make a cup in the usual way. This is what it looks like when collected. 

It's one of the most expensive types of coffee in the world, especially if collected from the wild. Part digestion improves the flavour profile, so they tell me.

We visited a coffee farm with weasels in cages that are fed the beans. Not a great life for them. And I didn't much care for the coffee - far too acidic and bitter for me. I'll stick to the bog standard Vietnamese coffee, which I love (see above).


questionable weasel coffee, great view


My insider tips

Withdrawing cash. When you need to pay big bucks for something - like a six day motorbike tour (US $70 per person per day, includes accommodation and gas, since you asked) - it's worth knowing the daily limit you can withdraw from an ATM. With most cash machines, its 2 million dong, about £60. BIDV Bank cash machines tend to give out 5 million.

Also, if you request a round number, it will give you 500,000 dong notes - little use if you want to pay a street food vendor for dinner. Instead, request just under what you want - for example 1,900,000 instead of 2,000,000 - and it will give you a few hundreds.

Highlight / Lowlight

Highlight. Vietnam is ethnically diverse, with around 50 ethnic minorities, many of them living in rudimentary villages much the way they did 100 years ago. 

Some have always domesticated wild elephants, and we got to have a little ride on one. 

He went through his morning routine with us on his back. He ambled through the village to Lak Lake, waded in up to his ankles, wallowed a little, splashed about a bit, then had a wonder back, stopping to breakfast on some roadside vegetation. That was cool.

view of Lak Lake from the elephant



Lowlight. The end of day two was painful. It was a particularly long stretch, the road was bumpy, I was wearing shorts (good choice for a tan, bad for motorbiking comfort), and our backsides were still acclimatising to the ride. 

We were utterly exhausted and pretty saddle sore by the end of it. The next day onwards was fine though - we must have got used to it.

Next week

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