Wednesday, 7 January 2015

INDIA: Review of ITC WelcomHotel Raviz Ashtamudi Kollam


In a nutshell 

A three-year old luxury property spread over five sprawling acres, with 93 rooms including 9 suites and cottages, perched on the banks of the vast Ashtamundi Lake in 'God's own country', also known as the state of Kerala.

Where is it?

Kollam Junction is 4.5km away and is the nearest railway station. For domestic flights, Thiruvananthapuramis airport is 70km away and the hotel is 150km from Kochi. 

Ashtamundi Lake is Kerala's second largest and deepest wetland , and the southern gateway to the famed Kerala backwaters.  It wraps its eight branching tentacles around the hotel's open lobby, wafting in gentle breezes and offering some special lakeside sunset views from the spa, rooms, gym and lobby that face it.  

Style and character


The property is made up of two sections - the main Heritage Block and the adjoining Tower Block. The former is reminsicent of the architectural style of the 19th century Thevally Palace, with its vast and impressive lobby and generous use of dark wood on the staircases, exposed beams and furniture. The latter is more contempory, housing the business hall and the signature Ayurveda Spa on the sixth floor.

The style as a whole is a complimentary blend of modern architecture and traditional Keralan art, with local artisans, architects, engineers and waterway specialists engaged in its design. It's beautifully done and merges into the spectacular natural surroundings seamlessly.

What's unique?

Each evening the hotel offers a complimentary sunset boat cruise for all guests, making the most of its unique location - calls are made to the rooms half an hour or so before as a reminder. In a similar vein, a cultural show is also hosted each evening in the hotel lobby. 

I'm not sure if it differs from day to day, but the evening we went down there was a small but perfectly formed young woman performing Bharata Natyam - a classic Indian dance with origins in the temples of Tamil Nadu - known for its grace, purity and tenderness. She was in full makeup and traditional dress, and it was wonderful to watch.

They can also organise a number of other complimentary activities to do on site - a list of which is provided at check-in - including rope climbing, fishing, saree tying, learning the Malayalam language, and watching cooking demonstrations from the restaurant chefs.

Who goes?

Around the reception there are blown up photographs of the famous Indians that have stayed at the property - the likes of President Pratibha Patil and Bollywood superstar Shah Rukh Khan - posing with what I presume is the owner or head of the hotel or ITC chain as a whole. 

The rooms have the Forbes 100 Richest Indians magazine in them, which may be indicative of the clientèle and their target market. But from the people we saw, there were a mix of families, groups of friends, couples, tourists from India and those from further afield.



Breakfast

As I have found to be quite common in good Indian hotels, the buffet breakfast included a 'live station' where a chef makes tasty fresh dosas or omelettes to order. The rest of the offering focussed on Indian food, with the usual southern suspects of idly (steamed rice patties), fried lentil donuts, sambar, chutneys, stuffed parathas and quite a few other breakfast dishes typical to the region.

Alternatives were porridge, fruits, bread, chicken sausages, baked beans, fried potatoes and more . It's held in the Lakeside Restaurant and if you choose to sit outside, the setting is picture perfect with the body of water twinkling under the strong Indian sun framed by the silhouetted fronds of palm trees.



Dining

The all-day-dining Lakeside restaurant has a concise and well thought out international menu offering, along with a section for Kerala specialities and grilled Indian kebabs.

One highlight from the local cuisine was the Allepey chemeen manga curry. It was prawns (chemeen) stewed in raw mango (manga), coconut and turmeric, and with shallots, green chillies, ginger, garlic, chilli powder, coriander powder, fenugreek, mustard seeds and curry leaves. 

Another was the Ashtamundi meen curry, essentially a Keralan fish curry, which will have different names depending on where you're eating it in the state.

It was cubes of fish (dictated by what's caught that day - often karimeen which has black spots), simmered with shredded coconut, tamarind juice, chillies, garlic, ginger, coriander powder, turmeric, fenugreek, curry leaves, and with mustard seeds and shallots, and was very good indeed.

International food offerings at hotels can often be disappointing. Whilst I would usually never order these on a short trip abroad (diving head first in the local cuisine is always my main priority), eating Indian food three times a day for almost three weeks had me desperately craving alternative flavours. 

One lunch time I ordered wok-tossed prawns with, garlic, Chinese greens and oyster sauce and it was so good, I ordered it again at dinner. The kebab meats were exceptionally soft and yielding, expertly spiced and a real pleasure to eat after having a lot of vegetarian food during our India tour so far.

We happened to pass the restaurant when they were setting up to feed a large group for lunch. There were rows of banana leaves laden with all manner of southern thali dishes, waiting for the addition of piping hot rice and poppadoms. We've had a lot of thalis so far in India, but these looked particularly good.

There is also Raanthal, a large boat that serves as a floating restaurant offering a unique option for private hire, be that for bigger groups hosting social events, parties or for an intimate and romantic dinner, as well as the Shanghai Club specialising in Chinese cuisine.

Service

This was a highlight of the stay, particularly within the restaurant, with special mention to Ashvin. His grasp of English was spot on meaning he understood any unusual requests the first time round, without me having to repeat myself. He also remembered my preferences from previous visits; it felt as though he was reading my mind before I was about to ask for something. Courteous, efficient and with a great mannerism and attitude, it was a pleasure being served by him and we always looked out for him each time we visited the restaurant.

Reception staff were also fantastic, with Preethi ensuring our 1am railway station transfer was booked, sending us off with very appreciated packed breakfasts for our first overnight train ride.

Nice touches include in-room check-in for certain rooms, a fresh fruit platter on arrival (the pomegranate was gorgeous enjoyed by the pool) and they have a concierge service that's even available on Twitter @ITCHotelsCares

Liked lots / liked less

Liked lots. The Ayurveda spa has over 12 very nicely kitted out treatment rooms, each overlooking the picturesque lake, and offers a host of traditional and international treatments. The centre is ‘Green Leaf certified’ (the highest rating for Ayurveda facilities given by the government of Kerala) and offers both rejuvenating and curative treatments, as well as Ayurveda massages.

I indulged in an hour long Ayurveda facial which involved massaging with lemon and honey, a bracing exfoliation with a coarse paste, followed by a face mask. On leaving, I felt like I'd had a facelift - my skin was bright, taught and as clean as a whistle - fantastic. The service there was also wonderful.

Liked less. The fitness centre has a view to compete with most gyms, but the air conditioning in it was not adequate. There are intermittent power cuts in the hotel - very brief and only lasting a couple of moments, you barely notice them. But this did mean the AC also cut out when I was using the gym and there was no one around to turn it back on. I did a 30 minute run in what must have been about 40C heat - it was toasty.

Price point

Prices from around £46 a night for a studi to £300 for a suite, rooms inclusive of breakfast. 

Contact

Thevally, Mathilil P.O., Kollam, Kerala 691601
+91 (474) 2751111
Website
@ITCHotels

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel.

Related post

Week 3: INDIA - Kochi → Allepey → Kollam → Madurai

Sunday, 4 January 2015

Week 2: INDIA - Bangalore → Mysore → Wayanad

Image of the week: kids on their school bus, Mysore (more images at end of post)






Where in the world

A flight to Bangalore where we spent one night (more of a stopover), then a two hour train to Mysore for three nights. We then left the state of Karnataka and moved further south into Kerala. 

There was a two hour bus ride from Mysore to Wayanad where we stayed for two nights, then a seven hour overnight bus to Kochi.



Thoughts

Bengalaru (I much prefer its former name of Bangalore), is slick and high-tech. Huge billboards advertise the latest apartment complex to have been built, with names like 'Chartered Beverly Hills' and 'Utopia Layout'. People drive cars that haven't been battered and scuffed into next week, the roads are wide, well paved, and people stick to their lanes. It's easy to see why it's known as the 'Silicon Valley of India' - everyone looks like they've just come from the office.


We didn't get enough time to explore and with hindsight, I would have spent one night less in Mysore and one more here - I hear the food scene is pretty great. But then where in India isn't it.

Then there's Mysore, where sarees are brighter, skin is darker, smiles are bigger, and food is hotter. It's like the whole place has been tuned to high contrast. If this is textbook south India, then it's my kind of India. 

I had my first proper encounter with Indian flowers in Devaraja Market. I'd heard about their potency and seen strings of them adorning the hair of the local women, but I had yet to experience them on this scale. 

What must have been a bazillion pristine flower heads were tipped out of great delivery sacks and sold on in huge amounts to customers for weddings, parties, celebrations. Lotus, jasmine, roses, carnations, chrysanthemums, marigolds, more. Combined, the aroma was intoxicating and almost overpowering. There must have been tonnes of them.

Indian flowers in Devaraja Market, Mysore

Indian flowers in Devaraja Market, Mysore
jh
Wayanad is a district in the state of Kerala, known as 'God's own country', green with forests and plantations and the tall and dead straight thin trunks of palm trees. All the spices we love in Indian cooking thrive here thanks to the altitude and soil - ginger, cardamom, cloves, pepper, nutmeg, turmeric, vanilla, as well as swathes of tea and coffee bushes, bananas, and avocados that Indians don't really like and so are left to the monkeys. 

Some days dawn to heavy mists rolling in, with moisture condensing on leaves and dripping as the sound of rain. Birds with bright colours flash across your path from one tree to another, and their are wildlife sanctuaries with elephants and tigers and indigenous hill tribes. Swoon.

from top left: cloves, ginger, pepper, coffee beans

The best things I ate this week

What to eat in Mysore

Thali. Thali meals are found all over India and are comprised of a selection of different dishes, this one being vegetarian and reflective of Andhra cuisine (hot and heavily spiced). 

In the south they're often served on a banana leaf. This one included: vegetable fry (potatoes, cabbage, carrots), daal, tangy lime pickle, fresh yellow cucumber chutney, sambar (lentil based veg stew), spicy rasam (a South Indian soup with tamarind as a base), poppadom, curd and piping hot rice. 

We had three free top ups of everything - the guy keeps coming round with it all and dishing out more. Each meal was 90 rupees, about 90p. This was also our first attempt at eating rice with a hand (see more on that below) - I think we did pretty well. 

Meal had at RRR Hotel restaurant on Gandhi Square in Mysore, recommend by some local foodies.

Majjiga mirapakaya. Green chillies soaked in buttermilk, sun-dried, then deep-fried. They're crispy, salted, and very hot. Entirely addictive, and should these be matched with a cold beer, you have something quite special. These came with the above thali meal and are a typical Andhran accompaniment. 

Aakki roti. A rice pancake unique to the state of Karnataka. It had onions, green chillies, grated coconut, coriander, cumin and also dill, which seemed unusual but was very good.

Masala abode. Deep fried spiced lentils and dillweed patties.

from top left: thali meal, majjiga mirapakaya, aakki roti, masala abode 

Street food must-eat 

Street food in Mysore

Dry gobi. There is a strip of street food vendors in Mysore called Chat Street on Krishna Vilas Road. One of the most sought after dishes from here is dry gobi - cauliflower florets coated in a spicy red sauce (curd, chilli powder, garlic, ginger, curry leaves), deep fried, served with a squeeze of lime, raw onions, and fried chillies. 30p for a plate. Excellent.
 

The people to get them from is father and son team Abid and Usman. The duo recently won the Best Street Food Award at the Oggarane Dabbi, a cookery competition organised by Zee Kannada, a regional channel.

dry gobi from Chat Street, Mysore

Local lingo

Verum peda \verum pedda\ - it acts as an exclamatory remark on something great

Usage:
- How was your meal?
- Verum pedda 

Roots in the Malayalam language spoken in Kerala.

Did you know?

There are indigenous hill tribes in Kerala called the Paniyan people. Our guide for one of the days in the district of Wayanad is one of the very few who can speak their language, one which is only vocal and has no written word.


Because of his ability to communicate with them where others can't, he has unrivalled access to their communities.

We walked with him a little while into the forest and came across a family in one of these villages. They lead a primiative and simple life of mud huts, no electricity, and spring water gathered from a local stream. 

The Paniyan people don't know how old they are as they don't use calendars or have documentation. The woman gradually increase the size of their ear piercings over time by stuffing them with rolled up leaves, significant in their culture. It's by the size of the hole in the ear lobe that an estimate of age is made. 

They earn money by picking tea and coffee, with which they buy rice. If they haven't quite earnt enough, they supplement the rest of their diet with what they hunt and gather from the depths of the forest. 

The picture below is of the matriarch of the family - a great face. The other is of their home - a very solid structure with a floor of dried cow dung. Pitch black but very cool inside. 
The house is made up of two areas, one for living and one for sleeping and cooking, and three generations live in this modest home. The woman's daughters were too shy to come out, but the grandchildren did. As we were leaving, the three-year-old picked up a hoe and set to work on a patch of earth. 

Our guide was fantastic - Sabu from www.wayanad-naturetours.com

a lady from the Paniyan tribe, Kerala

a Paniyan house, Kerala


My insider tips

How to eat rice with your hand. Rice is a staple in India, but becomes increasingly prevalent the further south you travel. Eating Indian food with your hands when bread is involved isn't too tricky - tear a piece off, scoop up some gravy and you're on your away. But eating with your hands when rice is involved is a lot trickier.

Through observation and practice, the trick is to combine rice with enough gravy to make it come together, but not too much that it becomes slop. Use your finger tips to rotate a mound of the mix on the plate until you get something you can sort of handle, pick up and pop into your mouth. 

Etiquette dictates you wash your hands before eating, and you only use your right hand to handle the food. Expect to end up with rice all over your fingers, which seems to be the norm. When you're done, there will be basins at the back of the restaurant to wash your hands - you rarely get given serviettes.

Highlight / Lowlight

Highlight We had spent the day being driven around the district of Wayanad in a jeep with zero suspension that required a titanium strength sports bra to endure. Body broken and brain rattled, we finished off with a safari at Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary in the north of the district. 

Driving around on tracks that had our arses coming off the seats by a good six inches, our guide spotted something from the corner of his eye, turned back to look behind the car and shouted 'elephant!'. There stood a pregnant female, grazing right by the track, with three more just behind her. 

I asked if we could turn the enormously loud engine off but the vehicle must be kept running during elephant sightings, should it take a turn and start charging. 'Tigers no problem. Elephants - very dangerous,' said our guide.  Seeing an asian elephant in the wild - pretty damn cool. And worth the bruised backside.

Lowlight We had to fly the day the Air Asia flight went missing. Tragic news at any time, but particularly unsettling when you intend to take quite a few flights over the coming months. It made for a less than pleasant wait in the airport lounge.

There was also a small bomb blast in Bangalore the night we arrived. Low intensity the news said, but one person who was walking past at the time died from their injuries.

pleased about the roadside picnic
The lowest point of this week though, was the overnight coach from Wayanad to Kochi. After waiting three hours for it by the side of a main road whilst setting up a makeshift roadside picnic to get some dinner inside us, the whole time inhaling black exhaust fumes from every chugging auto rickshaw and dilapidated local bus on its last legs, we had in that time forgotten to take our travel sickness pills. 

Cue a seven hour journey sitting at the back, the first half of which was spent negotiating hairpin bends and feeling every steering wheel movement of a vehicle that was travelling too fast for the load it was carrying. We both felt as though we were about to see our dinner for a second time that evening for the duration of the journey. Add to this the fact we were caked in a day's worth of sightseeing sweat and dust, and you have the makings of a very uncomfortable journey. 

We arrived at Heavenly Homestay at 4am to a wonderful couple who gave us the gift of a spotless room, a hot shower, and told us breakfast would be at whatever time we chose to get up. It felt like I'd been waiting to get clean and into bed for a week - it felt so good when I did.

Next week

A day in Kochi, one night on a houseboat through the backwaters of Allepey disembarking at Kollam, then onwards to the corner of India that is forever France, Pondicherry.

Postcards

Mysore

school children, Mysore

school children, Mysore

school children, Mysore

school children, Mysore

Bollywood posters, Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore at dusk

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

Mysore

street food vendor on Chat Street, Mysore

Mysore

Wayanad

Wayanad
Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

Wayanad

drying coffee beans, Wayanad

tea plantation, Wayanad

Wayanad

Related posts

Week 0: Gone travelling. London - see you in nine months

Week 1: INDIA - Mumbai → Goa
Week 2: INDIA - Bangalore → Mysore → Wayanad
Week 3: INDIA - Kochi → Allepey → Kollam → Madurai
Week 4: INDIA - Pondicherry → Chennai → Mumbai

Week 5: INDIA - Varanasi → Udaipur → Jaipur → Delhi
Week 6: TAIWAN - Taipei
Week 7: CHINA & VIETNAM - Hong Kong → Hanoi
Week 8: VIETNAM - Sapa → Hanoi → Ha Long Bay → Hanoi

Week 9: VIETNAM - Hue → Hoi An
Week 10: VIETNAM - 6 day / 5 night motorbike tour from Hoi An to Da Lat
Week 11: VIETNAM - Da Lat → Nha Trang
Week 12: VIETNAM - HCMC → Mekong Delta → HCMC

Week 13: CAMBODIA - Siem Reap (and Angkor Wat) → Phnom Penh
Week 14: CAMBODIA - Sihanoukville & Koh Rong Samloem Island
Week 15: CAMBODIA - Kep
Week 16: THAILAND - Chiang Mai

Week 17: THAILAND - Songkran Festival in Mae Rim & Chiang Mai
Week 18: THAILAND - Bangkok → Koh Phangan
Week 19: THAILAND - Bangkok
Week 20: MALAYSIA - Penang → Borneo

Week 21: AUSTRALIA - Melbourne
Week 22: NEW ZEALAND - Auckland → Rotorua → Turangi → Whanganui
Week 23: NEW ZEALAND - Wellington → Nelson Lakes → Hanmer Springs → Christchurch
Week 24: NEW ZEALAND - Lake Tekapo → Mount Cook → Queenstown → Milford Sound

Week 25: NEW ZEALAND & USA - Queenstown → Hawaii
Week 26: USA - Hawaii (Big Island) → San Francisco (Oakland)
Week 27: USA - San Francisco
Week 28: USA - Los Angeles


Week 29: MEXICO - Mexico City
Week 30: MEXICO - Oaxaca
Week 31: MEXICO - Mérida (plus Uxmal and Kabah)
Week 32: MEXICO - Tulum (plus Sian Ka'an Nature Reserve)

Week 33: USA - Postcards from Washing DC & Cape Cod
Week 34: HOME (LONDON) - The best and worst from the past 8 months - Part 1

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