The Cutlery Chronicles

Sunday, 4 January 2015

Week 2: INDIA - Bangalore → Mysore → Wayanad

Image of the week: kids on their school bus, Mysore (more images at end of post)

Where in the world

A flight to Bangalore where we spent one night (more of a stopover), then a two hour train to Mysore for three nights. We then left the state of Karnataka and moved further south into Kerala.

There was a two hour bus ride from Mysore to Wayanad where we stayed for two nights, then a seven hour overnight bus to Kochi.

Thoughts

Bengalaru (I much prefer its former name of Bangalore), is slick and high-tech. Huge billboards advertise the latest apartment complex to have been built, with names like 'Chartered Beverly Hills' and 'Utopia Layout'. People drive cars that haven't been battered and scuffed into next week, the roads are wide, well paved, and people stick to their lanes. It's easy to see why it's known as the 'Silicon Valley of India' - everyone looks like they've just come from the office.

We didn't get enough time to explore and with hindsight, I would have spent one night less in Mysore and one more here - I hear the food scene is pretty great. But then where in India isn't it.

Then there's Mysore, where sarees are brighter, skin is darker, smiles are bigger, and food is hotter. It's like the whole place has been tuned to high contrast. If this is textbook south India, then it's my kind of India.

I had my first proper encounter with Indian flowers in Devaraja Market. I'd heard about their potency and seen strings of them adorning the hair of the local women, but I had yet to experience them on this scale.

What must have been a bazillion pristine flower heads were tipped out of great delivery sacks and sold on in huge amounts to customers for weddings, parties, celebrations. Lotus, jasmine, roses, carnations, chrysanthemums, marigolds, more. Combined, the aroma was intoxicating and almost overpowering. There must have been tonnes of them.

Indian flowers in Devaraja Market, Mysore

Indian flowers in Devaraja Market, Mysore
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Wayanad is a district in the state of Kerala, known as 'God's own country', green with forests and plantations and the tall and dead straight thin trunks of palm trees. All the spices we love in Indian cooking thrive here thanks to the altitude and soil - ginger, cardamom, cloves, pepper, nutmeg, turmeric, vanilla, as well as swathes of tea and coffee bushes, bananas, and avocados that Indians don't really like and so are left to the monkeys.

Some days dawn to heavy mists rolling in, with moisture condensing on leaves and dripping as the sound of rain. Birds with bright colours flash across your path from one tree to another, and their are wildlife sanctuaries with elephants and tigers and indigenous hill tribes. Swoon.

from top left: cloves, ginger, pepper, coffee beans

The best things I ate this week

What to eat in Mysore

Thali. Thali meals are found all over India and are comprised of a selection of different dishes, this one being vegetarian and reflective of Andhra cuisine (hot and heavily spiced).

In the south they're often served on a banana leaf. This one included: vegetable fry (potatoes, cabbage, carrots), daal, tangy lime pickle, fresh yellow cucumber chutney, sambar (lentil based veg stew), spicy rasam (a South Indian soup with tamarind as a base), poppadom, curd and piping hot rice.

We had three free top ups of everything - the guy keeps coming round with it all and dishing out more. Each meal was 90 rupees, about 90p. This was also our first attempt at eating rice with a hand (see more on that below) - I think we did pretty well.

Meal had at RRR Hotel restaurant on Gandhi Square in Mysore, recommend by some local foodies.

Majjiga mirapakaya. Green chillies soaked in buttermilk, sun-dried, then deep-fried. They're crispy, salted, and very hot. Entirely addictive, and should these be matched with a cold beer, you have something quite special. These came with the above thali meal and are a typical Andhran accompaniment.

Aakki roti. A rice pancake unique to the state of Karnataka. It had onions, green chillies, grated coconut, coriander, cumin and also dill, which seemed unusual but was very good.

Masala abode. Deep fried spiced lentils and dillweed patties.

from top left: thali meal, majjiga mirapakaya, aakki roti, masala abode

Street food must-eat

Street food in Mysore

Dry gobi. There is a strip of street food vendors in Mysore called Chat Street on Krishna Vilas Road. One of the most sought after dishes from here is dry gobi - cauliflower florets coated in a spicy red sauce (curd, chilli powder, garlic, ginger, curry leaves), deep fried, served with a squeeze of lime, raw onions, and fried chillies. 30p for a plate. Excellent.

The people to get them from is father and son team Abid and Usman. The duo recently won the Best Street Food Award at the Oggarane Dabbi, a cookery competition organised by Zee Kannada, a regional channel.

dry gobi from Chat Street, Mysore

Local lingo

Verum peda \verum pedda\ - it acts as an exclamatory remark on something great

Usage:
- How was your meal?
- Verum pedda

Roots in the Malayalam language spoken in Kerala.

Did you know?

There are indigenous hill tribes in Kerala called the Paniyan people. Our guide for one of the days in the district of Wayanad is one of the very few who can speak their language, one which is only vocal and has no written word.

Because of his ability to communicate with them where others can't, he has unrivalled access to their communities.

We walked with him a little while into the forest and came across a family in one of these villages. They lead a primiative and simple life of mud huts, no electricity, and spring water gathered from a local stream.

The Paniyan people don't know how old they are as they don't use calendars or have documentation. The woman gradually increase the size of their ear piercings over time by stuffing them with rolled up leaves, significant in their culture. It's by the size of the hole in the ear lobe that an estimate of age is made.

They earn money by picking tea and coffee, with which they buy rice. If they haven't quite earnt enough, they supplement the rest of their diet with what they hunt and gather from the depths of the forest.

The picture below is of the matriarch of the family - a great face. The other is of their home - a very solid structure with a floor of dried cow dung. Pitch black but very cool inside.
The house is made up of two areas, one for living and one for sleeping and cooking, and three generations live in this modest home. The woman's daughters were too shy to come out, but the grandchildren did. As we were leaving, the three-year-old picked up a hoe and set to work on a patch of earth.

Our guide was fantastic - Sabu from www.wayanad-naturetours.com

a lady from the Paniyan tribe, Kerala

a Paniyan house, Kerala

My insider tips

How to eat rice with your hand. Rice is a staple in India, but becomes increasingly prevalent the further south you travel. Eating Indian food with your hands when bread is involved isn't too tricky - tear a piece off, scoop up some gravy and you're on your away. But eating with your hands when rice is involved is a lot trickier.

Through observation and practice, the trick is to combine rice with enough gravy to make it come together, but not too much that it becomes slop. Use your finger tips to rotate a mound of the mix on the plate until you get something you can sort of handle, pick up and pop into your mouth.

Etiquette dictates you wash your hands before eating, and you only use your right hand to handle the food. Expect to end up with rice all over your fingers, which seems to be the norm. When you're done, there will be basins at the back of the restaurant to wash your hands - you rarely get given serviettes.

Highlight / Lowlight

Highlight We had spent the day being driven around the district of Wayanad in a jeep with zero suspension that required a titanium strength sports bra to endure. Body broken and brain rattled, we finished off with a safari at Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary in the north of the district.

Driving around on tracks that had our arses coming off the seats by a good six inches, our guide spotted something from the corner of his eye, turned back to look behind the car and shouted 'elephant!'. There stood a pregnant female, grazing right by the track, with three more just behind her.

I asked if we could turn the enormously loud engine off but the vehicle must be kept running during elephant sightings, should it take a turn and start charging. 'Tigers no problem. Elephants - very dangerous,' said our guide. Seeing an asian elephant in the wild - pretty damn cool. And worth the bruised backside.

Lowlight We had to fly the day the Air Asia flight went missing. Tragic news at any time, but particularly unsettling when you intend to take quite a few flights over the coming months. It made for a less than pleasant wait in the airport lounge.

There was also a small bomb blast in Bangalore the night we arrived. Low intensity the news said, but one person who was walking past at the time died from their injuries.

pleased about the roadside picnic

The lowest point of this week though, was the overnight coach from Wayanad to Kochi. After waiting three hours for it by the side of a main road whilst setting up a makeshift roadside picnic to get some dinner inside us, the whole time inhaling black exhaust fumes from every chugging auto rickshaw and dilapidated local bus on its last legs, we had in that time forgotten to take our travel sickness pills.

Cue a seven hour journey sitting at the back, the first half of which was spent negotiating hairpin bends and feeling every steering wheel movement of a vehicle that was travelling too fast for the load it was carrying. We both felt as though we were about to see our dinner for a second time that evening for the duration of the journey. Add to this the fact we were caked in a day's worth of sightseeing sweat and dust, and you have the makings of a very uncomfortable journey.

We arrived at Heavenly Homestay at 4am to a wonderful couple who gave us the gift of a spotless room, a hot shower, and told us breakfast would be at whatever time we chose to get up. It felt like I'd been waiting to get clean and into bed for a week - it felt so good when I did.

Next week

A day in Kochi, one night on a houseboat through the backwaters of Allepey disembarking at Kollam, then onwards to the corner of India that is forever France, Pondicherry.

Postcards

Mysore

school children, Mysore

Bollywood posters, Mysore

Mysore

Mysore at dusk

Mysore

street food vendor on Chat Street, Mysore

Mysore

Wayanad

drying coffee beans, Wayanad

tea plantation, Wayanad

Wayanad

Sunday, 28 December 2014

Week 1: INDIA - Mumbai → Goa

Image of the week: Crawford Market, Mumbai (more images at end of post)
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Where in the world

Mumbai for three nights. Flight to Goa. Three nights in South Goa.

Thoughts

Mumbai is as chaotic and alive as I expected it to be. I feel like I've barely knocked on its door with just three days there, but we're back in a couple of weeks to visit a relative of Matt's, and I'm very much looking forward to round two.

The first of the senses to get a full on assault are the ears. Horn-honking is unrelenting. It's custom to honk when you overtake the car in front, to act as a warning. As everyone is always overtaking and undercutting everyone else, every car honks all of the time. Constantly. It does not stop. The driving here - particularly from the taxi drivers who rent a different car each day and therefore don't care if the one they're in gets scuffed - is the most suicidal I've seen. There is no concept of lanes, car widths, speed limits, keeping to one side of the road, keeping any sort of distance, braking, or seatbelts.

I braced myself for the poverty - the homeless, the desperate, the wretched. Whist whole families call little more than a corner of road their home, look past the the superficial layers of possession and ownership so important in the western world, and you'll often see faces that seem content and dare I say it - even happy. The children smile and play, pots of food bubble over portable gas stoves, and families sit around to eat together and play card games at meal times.

Yes, the city is dusty and polluted and pretty grubby in places, and the rats are much bigger than the ones in New York, and entirely fearless. But they're all symptoms of a city with a lot of people and a lot of industry. Indians are an enterprising lot - there's evidence of work or trade in every nook and cranny of the city. Be that from the women selling strings of flowers to passers-by for a few rupees, to the guy who's sole business is selling single cigarettes and tea from his portable stall, to the suited hotshot city lawyers and bankers, to the thin but supernaturally strong elderly men hauling fully loaded wooden carts the length of two cars up inclines. These people are not afraid of hard work, and they've each found their own way to earn a crust.

With hard work, comes much needed rest. If it's a flat surface area, don't be surprised to find someone sleeping on it. And deep sleep they seem to manage, dead to the world amongst the commotion and smog and cows and endless activity. More often than not, it's workers catching some shut-eye between shifts, as the commute home might be too far for them to bother. Especially true if they've come from far-off villages in search of work and have yet to find, or can't afford, a roof over their heads.

Then there's the other end of Mumbai's spectrum - the glossy, polished, well-heeled part. The affluent shop in Whole Foods and Marks and Spencers in the pristine air-conditioned malls, speak to eachother only in English, and live in some of the most expensive real estate in the world. Business is booming in Mumbai, and it's not hard to tell who's benefiting.

I couldn't help but notice barely any westerners out and about in the city - we must have seen a handful over the three days. I don't doubt they were there, I just suspect they were holed up in their five star hotels missing out on all the action and fantastic food outside. Which is a great shame.

Goa is a Facebook check-in dream. Plush hotels, beautiful sunsets, gorgeous beaches, great nightlife. It's a place where people stay in their resorts, and spend most of the day lazing about taking shots of palm trees and 'I <3 Goa' they've scrawled into the sand. There are also a lot of Russians there, so much so that some restaurant signs are only in Russian.

I didn't get a chance to get around much for a proper feel of the place, which is annoying (see transport note further down). But I did eat some great food (also further down), catch a few rays and find the time to write this post. So, silver linings.

The best things I ate this week

What to eat in Mumbai

Sabudana wada. Soaked sago (tapioca balls), potato, ground peanuts, chilli, coriander, lemon juice, rolled into balls, then deep fried. I had this at Prakash in Dadar, Mumbai. Cheap as chips, and featured in the New York Times no less. Thank you to @imbevda for taking us here.

Misal. Two types of lentils, puffed rice, potato, fried savoury bits, onion, coriander, lime, topped with a spicy gravy. Also at Prakash.

Raj kachori. A big puri filled with yoghurt, chutneys, sprouts, chana (chickpeas), potato, fried crispy bits. At Elco in Bandra, Mumbai. This place started as a streetfood stall and got so popular and successful that they moved to bricks and mortar - a common story in London too. Thank you to @lovetolivetoeat and @toxicbaker for taking us there.

Chicken dhansak. Had at the legendary Ripon Club in Mumbai. A Parsi members-only institution, famed for their mutton dhansak buffet on Wednesdays (but chicken the day we visited). Dhansak is a Parsi dish of daal, meat (mutton or chicken) with caramelised rice. Thank you to pastry chef and distant relative of Matt's, Mehernosh of @celebrations_fine_confections for inviting us in and hosting us. Also enjoyed with Indian food and wine writer @antoinelewis.

Kharvas. It's the milk from a cow when it has just given birth, therefore at it's most rich, cooked down with sugar, cardamom, a bit of nutmeg and saffron. It's made into a wobbly solid that's cut into and sold as slippery cubes. I bought some off a street vendor in Mumbai, after reassurance from a local foodie first. Tastes like rice pudding.

left: chicken dhansak buffet at the Ripon Club, Mumbai right: pani puri at Elco, Bandra, Mumbai

From top left: sabudana wada; raj kachori; myself and the other half with Jagruti (@lovetolivetoeat), Jahan (@toxicbaker) and Sameer (@FoodBloggerAI); misal

What to eat in Goa

Beef assad. A dish typical to the region, expect outstandingly tender chunks of roast beef in a spicy gravy, cooked with garlic, turmeric, onions, vinegar, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. It reminded me a lot of a Mauritian roast beef dish my mum makes, and I suspect any similarities between Goan and Mauritian cuisine are thanks to the Portuguese influence.

This was had at Fisherman's Wharf in Salcette, south Goa. It was recommended, and didn't disappoint. It was in fact so good (and so reasonable), we went back a second night. Order from the 'Stay Goan' part of the menu, and expect fiery dishes full of flavour at around £2.50 each.

Also very much enjoyed there were the masala fried crab (sucking on legs with spicy red crab juice dripping down your forearms - fantastic), prawn balchao (prawns in a spicy red gravy), chicken carfreal (marinated in a paste of chillies, coriander leaves, ginger, garlic and peppercorns), and pan-fried kingfish in Goan spices.

Street food must-eat

I'd come to Mumbai having already heard about vada pav. They're sometimes referred to as the city's take on a vegetarian burger; seeing as it's fast food, cheap, and a filling betwixt two buns, that's sort of accurate. But let me tell you, I'd have these over a burger most days.

They are spicy potato balls deep fried in gram flour, with a lick of hot garlic green chutney, all between two halves of a soft bun. They are salty, spicy and the cheapest thing we've had. 30 rupees for these two, which is roughly 30p.

You can get them on every street corner in Mumbai, but there are only about five stalls that do them particularly well. We had ours from Dheeraj Vada Pav in Juhu, opposite Mithibai College, Vile Parle West in Mumbai. Thank you to @lovetolivetoeat and @toxicbaker for taking us there.

A strong contender for favourite thing to pass my lips this week.

vada pav - Mumbai

vada pav, Mumbai

Local lingo

Faadu - superb.

Said in the Hindi slang of Mumbai, which is generally used by the working class - locals in market areas, people on public transport etc. Not considered a very stylish or cultured dialect, but you might rouse a surprised smile if you say it to a trader after you've haggled him down for a kaftan at Crawford Market.

train travel in Mumbai

Did you know?

I'd always seen Indian trains travelling along with their doors open in films and documentaries on TV, but I don't think I quite realised they stay open, for the whole journey, even when steaming along at 40-50 miles per hour.

When it's rush hour and there are more bodies on board than the transport can contain, the last in hold on with one arm, barely enough floor space to place a foot, with most of their bodies hanging out of the door. The local who was with us said he'd seen people die in front of his eyes falling onto the tracks during the daily commute.

My insider tips

Crossing the road. Every time you do so in Mumbai, you dice with death - there's no sugar-coating it. Pedestrian crossings are rare to non-existant.

Their occasional presence at the really big junctions are mostly pointless, considering the kamikaze taxi drivers and auto-rickshaws have little concept of red lights, slowing down because a child might be crossing, or the value of life in general.

So, to minimise the chance of injury, I was advised by a local to follow these instructions when crossing the road: 1) walk in front of the oncoming traffic with purpose 2) turn towards the car careering towards you at 35 miles an hour and raise your hand as a signal for it to stop, and the most important bit 3) make assertive eye contact with the driver as you're doing this.

Commit and be decisive and they will likely spare your life. If you're not, don't be surprised to go home with a broken foot (which has happened to this local in question - twice).

in the death wish taxi, Mumbai

Beggars. In terms of the poverty, there is a lot of it about, but most of the poor have a great sense of pride and would rather sell you something or offer a service than beg for money. That said, you will likely get a street urchin holding an almost-newborn tapping at your taxi window when it gets stuck in traffic at some point.

I was told by the locals that most of these kids work in gangs and have to take the money they earn back to their pimps - for want of a better word - and to not give money to them as it encourages the set-up. If you do feel you would like to do something, it's better to buy them some food and give them that instead.

Getting around in Goa. There isn't much in the way of public transport in Goa, so you can only really get around by taxi (much more expensive than in Mumbai) or by hiring your own transport.

There aren't really pavements or too much street lighting amongst the narrow and winding roads between villages, so it's not much of a walk-around place either. If you want to explore, you could risk the roads and rent a moped or car, but I'd advise getting a bicylcle and cruising along the beaches instead, which I saw a few people do. The driving here isn't much better than Mumbai, and as in the capital, don't expect working seatbelts in the cars.

Highlight / Lowlight

Highlight Surviving one particular fifty minute taxi journey to Bandra in Mumbai. In a car with no seatbelts and a driver with what can only be described as a suicide mission. Prayers were said; I'm not religious.

Lowlight A meal at Susegado Restaurant in The Leela Hotel in Goa. It took an hour for any food to arrive, it came wrong, cold and dry, they didn't have yoghurt (you serve Indian food - what?!), and it took three attempts to take a payment. Mostly a lowlight because it was Christmas Day, and Fisherman's Wharf was just next door at a quarter of the price, four times as good, but they were fully booked.

Next week

Fly to Bangalore which is acting as a quick stopover for one night before we move on to Mysore, where we'll be for a few days including New Year's.

Postcards

market scene, Mumbai

flour shop, Mumbai

Mumbai

street food vendor, Mumbai

Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai

Mumbai

Crawford Market, Mumbai

Mumbai

reclining on the 'fornicator' chairs at the Ripon Club, Mumbai

the Ripon Club, Mumbai

the Gateway of India, Mumbai

before ploughing into the vada pav, Mumbai

Cavelossim Beach, South Goa

Saturday, 27 December 2014

INDIA: Review of Citadines Richmond Bangalore

In a nutshell

Private serviced residences along the greenest expanse of Bangalore’s Central Business District, making it feel like you live there rather than just temporarily staying.

Where is it?

It's located close to the city's Central Business District and mostly aimed at business travellers, although it suits those pursuing leisure just as well.

It's around a one hour drive from the airport, 20 minutes from Bangalore City railway station and 15 minutes from Bangalore Cantonment railway station.

The property has its own fleet of cars for pick-ups, with working seatbelts and safe drivers, which is a novelty in India, let me tell you.

Style and character

It looks exactly like an apartment block, with a handsome spiral staircase joining the floors. The units are contemporary and made to feel like a home away from home, which is exactly what you need when you've been on the road for a long time - I can imagine people spend quite a bit of time in them.

Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen and wifi (although this is a bit intermittent - see below). There's also a swimming pool, business centre and gym on the roof.

What's unique?

There's a nicely done rooftop lounge and yoga deck should you fancy getting your zen on before breakfast.

Who goes?

At breakfast we saw a Japanese couple, a Middle Eastern family, a couple of men eating on their own (possibly on a business trip), and a larger family of three generations. Renting an apartment rather than several hotel rooms when there's a lot of you travelling together makes perfect sense to save money.

Breakfast

There are a lot of rooms, but there weren't that many at breakfast - likely because the majority make the most of the kitchen facilities in their apartments. Perhaps, because of this, the offering is modest but adequate.

Hot foods include typical Indian breakfast items such as idly, sambar, lentil donuts, chutneys, rice and vegetable korma, and also baked beans and potato wedges. There are some cereals, bread, pastries, cut fruit, sandwiches and salad items.

Do make use of the omelette guy outside who makes them to order - tasty little things with tomatoes, coriander, onions, and sliced up hot birds eye chillies.

There's seating both inside and out for breakfast, with the latter being alongside the small but nicely done swimming pool.

Service

It feels as though customer service is important to this chain, with little touches like notes dotted around asking for feedback (as did the lady on reception when we checked out), a card signed by the person who made up our apartment, and very welcoming and smiley staff at breakfast.

Liked lots / liked less

The apartment format as whole is great. Having a living room means you get much needed time away from whoever you might be travelling with, and don't have to work on a bed. Each apartment comes with a rather hefty restaurant directory which allows food delivery direct to your hotel room - very handy when you've checked in late because of a delayed flight and are hankering for a mutton biriyani.

A daily wifi password is required for every device you wish to connect. These are easily obtainable from reception, but it's a bit annoying when you realise you forgot about the second mobile. Also the wifi wasn't very consistent, with intermittent connectivity.

Price point

Prices from around £46 a night for a studio to £105 for a two bedroom apartment, inclusive of breakfast.

Contact

No. 1, Langford Garden, Richmond Road, 560001 Bangalore, India
+91 80 7100 0001
Website
@Ascott_Ltd

Note: I stayed as a guest of this hotel.
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Week 2: INDIA - Bangalore → Mysore → Wayanad → Kochi

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Sunday, 28 December 2014

Week 1: INDIA - Mumbai → Goa

Saturday, 27 December 2014

INDIA: Review of Citadines Richmond Bangalore

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